Ignition timing and distributor position

Hello all. Apologies in advance for the questions to come which are probably amateur to you all. I have a 2000TC and I can't seem to get the timing right, I've set it up using a strobe on number 1 HT lead (closest to radiator) at 6BTDC as per Mr Haynes, but the car's running like a hound - idles fine but no power at all on a drive. After some research I pose a couple of Qs:

1. Is strobe timing done from HT lead 1 or 4? Cylinder 1 I'm assuming to be closest to radiator
2. The leads from the distributor are 180 out from what they should be - i.e. number 1 lead farthest away from radiator instead of closest to. Could she run at 180 out and should I rejig them to the correct configuration and try at that?

I have pretty much explored all other avenues save for valve timing but she's had a recent rebuilt so i'm assuming all is fine there. Compression readings are 140ish for the rear 2 cylinders and 160 for the front 2. If these appear a touch low it's a 9:1 export model.

Thanks
 
In answer to your questions
1. It makes no difference
2. If the leads were 180 deg. out then it wouldn't start as it would be trying to fire on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression.
Maybe a carb overhaul is required, or you need to look at the valve timing or valve clearances.
 
Thanks for that. However why do you say it makes no difference? 1 and 4 fire at different times so it should matter when setting the timing with respect to TDC
 
roverrocket said:
However why do you say it makes no difference? 1 and 4 fire at different times so it should matter when setting the timing with respect to TDC

Come back when you've thought about that for a while....

As a matter of interest IIRC the factory WM tells you to check it on No4 anyway.
 
Harvey P6 - no need to be so pointed. I've come on here because I have thought about it. If it needs to be at 6BTDC it does matter which cylinder I'm checking
 
roverrocket said:
If it needs to be at 6BTDC it does matter which cylinder I'm checking

You haven't thought about it for long enough obviously.

It only makes a difference if you check it on 2 & 3.
 
Your first question:-

roverrocket said:
1. Is strobe timing done from HT lead 1 or 4? Cylinder 1 I'm assuming to be closest to radiator

The answer you were given:-

suffolkpete said:
In answer to your questions, 1. It makes no difference.

If you're not going to bother to listen to the answer you're given because you know better already, then don't ask.
 
Harvey is being his usual VERY helpful self.

As the camshaft turns at half the crankshaft speed, when the timing mark is aligned either number 1 or number 4 will fire.
Therefore it makes no difference it you time 1 or 4

Jim.
 
Harvey's always helpful by encouraging us to think about what's going on, which leads to a greater understanding.
(4-cylinder 4-stroke engine)
 
Willy Eckerslyke said:
Harvey's always helpful by encouraging us to think about what's going on, which leads to a greater understanding.
He has certainly helped me to understand my car better, on more than one occasion :D
 
Ignition leads being 180 degrees out means that someone took the camshaft off, with the pointer set to EP, but with the exhuast peak being open on number 4. When they put it back on, they set it so that the exhaust valve on number one was fully open, and now the leads need to be moved around. Leave as is, until you next do work on the motor.

High compression on the front 2 cylinders suggests to me that the motor has been run with the front carbs running rich, leading to carbon deposit on the front pistons. Twenty psi difference between cylinders is just okay I think. I would check compressions at future servicing, and if nothing changes for the worst then leave as is.

The difference between checking timing on number 4 versus number 1 is that the timing marks on the early motors are at the back, so perhaps Rover thought I would be easier to hook the timing light to number 4 lead. DId they change the recommendation when the timing marks were moved to the front?

I would consider fitting a reconditioned distributor, or having the one you have reconditioned. I think you have a timing advance issue.

James
 
Actually, given that the engine appears to of been reassembled in a novel manner, I'd check the valve timing next.

Yours
Vern
 
Thanks for all that useful info guys. I have a spare engine and have switched the distributor. The spare is a 10:1 and the car is a 9:1 export model but looking through the service history it had a new engine in the mid 90s, and then a rebuilt some time after that. I have therefore assumed the engine in the car is a 10:1 and the distributors should therefore be identical.

Upon stripping it seems the centrifugal advance in the spare is 13 degree, verses 10 degrees on the installed one. Is 13 degrees correct for the 10:1? It could be that the export distributor was carried over at the time of rebuilt.

Well I've taken her for a spin and the low-end grunt still isn't there. I flogged her up to 70 in 3rd, change to 4th and that kills her. She is rather reluctant to rev beyond 3,000rpm. She has been off the road for a while and has probably spent a lot of time idling so I might take her for an Italian tune up and see if that helps
 
roverrocket said:
It's a possibility. Anyone know the best way to check without dismantling the whole system?

As the joint at the bottom of the manifold on a TC is normally seized, undo the joint in front of the first silencer.
 
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