installing a boot rubber seal.

ButterFingers

Active Member
hi there,
I have a new boot rubber seal and wonder if I have to remove the boot lid on my RoverV8 , to install the new one?
If not I would have to be working upside down, sitting in the boot, with my legs dangling over the edge. Not the most comfortable position. Kamasutra eat your heart out...:confused:

Peter
 
Peter, you're better off contorting your body into the position you describe, than removing and refitting the bootlid!
 
^^^WHS^^^ But, if you try it and then in desperation take the boot lid off, remember this - if you take the bolts out and let it rest on the hinges, it will dent the boot lid. Just the weight of the boot lid resting on the corners of the hinge, will push out a couple of dents and spoil your whole afternoon :(

So make sure you have someone to help, who can take the weight of the lid while the bolts are removed, then both of you slide the boot lid upwards and away.

Richard
 
If you are going to remove the boot lid, leave the hinges attached to the lid and unbolt the hinges from the base unit. You'll have to slacken the three little bolts holding the back of the rear decker panel down to get the hinges out, but no chance of denting the lid.

Yours
Vern
 
^^^WHS^^^ But, if you try it and then in desperation take the boot lid off, remember this - if you take the bolts out and let it rest on the hinges, it will dent the boot lid. Just the weight of the boot lid resting on the corners of the hinge, will push out a couple of dents and spoil your whole afternoon :(

So make sure you have someone to help, who can take the weight of the lid while the bolts are removed, then both of you slide the boot lid upwards and away.

Richard
And don't mix the bolts up! One is shorter than the other. If you Mix them up, you'll dent the boot lid again!
 
had a moment of brilliance today:........................................................ I could turn the car upside down, suspend from the roof, then the boot lid would just hang there , suspended without any weight on
the hinges and then its just a matter of yanking out the old and installing the new.....wow why has no one thought of this before? o_O living in Australia makes things so much easier!
Peter
 
Today, I fitted a new rubber boot lid seal, less than 5 mins with a neighbor to remove the lid, ( just 4 bolts, 2 long and 2 short) , onto the bench with bubble wrap protection.
10 mins to fit the seal with trusty insect screen spline roller and my Festy fid. Tomorrow fit it back to car, the trouble with these small jobs is that the more you think of them the worse they become.
I tried sitting in the boot for 5 mins and only managed to fit the first 150 mm then gave up. So jumped in and the job was done..
Peter
P6233049.JPGP6233050.JPG P6233051.JPG
also fitted a battery isolator, the only place possible because the cable runs along side the driver under the carpet.
P6233053.JPG P6233054.JPG
had an audience most of the time too, in the front garden..
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Peter
if you are wondering whats on the hoist, its a 1942 wiles jeep, my mates pride and joy, we have just replaced the clutch, a real bu**er of a job, but success in the end....
 
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Although it makes little difference in practice, it's usual to isolate the chassis (earth) with the switch. The reason being you can still make a circuit from the terminal of the battery to earth if you have an open battery cover and drop anything on it. If you isolate the earth then it shouldn't matter if either side gets grounded.

Opinions differ. FIA mandates all vehicles in competitive motorsport isolate the +ve as you have.
 
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