34 years without slumbering - tick tock, but now the only non-British part of my P6 has stopped working. Can anyone give me any tips on what could be wrong with my dashboard clock or recommend a specialist to fix it?
I have a problem with mine also, in that it doesn`t always work??? Now and again it`s running fine, then next time I use the car, I have to adjust the time cos it`s stopped, and it will only run for a few hours maybe, then pack in again!
extensively covered in P6 NEWS, club member Joe Zahra (from Malta) advised a short squirt with WD40 as most clocks run out of lubrication after 30 years or so! (April 2001)
Sceptical, I tried it and it worked! (But use very sparingly!)
Roverman, there is also an article, or two regarding repair of clocks in the P6 NEWS _ I shall endeavour to find it. (December 1990 and December 1991 I think!)
easy fix for the clock take the clock out of the dash and try it on a battery just to make sure its not the wires at fault..if all works ok.then look at the soldered connecting on the back of the clock to make sure all are ok...I have had to solder up about 10 clocks now usually the main feed connection is the 1 that has broken free...
My 73 3500s has such a clock and it never has worked since I have had it, although I accept the word of the seller that it worked. The owners handbook described it as an electric/clockwork device that rewound itself every two minutes or so. My 1954 series 11 Morris Oxford had such a clock (which rarely worked) and I assumed it was a relic of the past. Not so. I can only assume that Rover looked to (West) Germany to find a clock that met their unusual needs.
I have for the past two years been searching for a simple battery operated clock of the same diameter and having a black dial with white figures and hands. Such a clock would run for about three years on a simple AA battery.
These Rover clocks have two contacts inside, one fixed and one which gets closer to the first one as the mainspring inside winds down (as the clock ticks). As they touch, it energises a coil which winds the clock up, and the process starts again. The commonest cause of failure is either the contacts becoming pitted (as there is a tiny spark as they contact) in a similar way to contact points, or the coil burning out, which means of course that the clock will not wind.
The contacts can be cleaned carefully with emery paper if you dismantle the clock after removing it from the dashboard, but a burnt out coil pretty final.
It may be possible to have it repaired, but on a 30 year old unit, you might not be able get the spares!
I went to a rude scrappie who wanted 30quid for me to remove a clock from a non running car. No way I thought so thought i would have ago at reparing mine. ..Having checked that electricity was getting there, to get at the innards the most difficult part was removing the bezel. On my 66 car the bezel is black painted brass. I knew i was going to damage this. I carefully prised this off with a bit of bending at the back and afew chips to the paint, which wouldnt be seen once the clock was rehoused. Inside was simple and the culprit was found. The power feed to the top of the solenoid which winds the spring was unsoldered. Few minutes to resolder and i now have a working clock. Once reinstated the bezel was repainted with black semi matt acrylic which looks ok. ::