Lady Charlotte - 1966 2000SC

I really wouldn't worry too much about about returning your exhaust to standard. If you're happy with the way it sounds, simply repair the damaged portion and leave as is. With your known welding skills it should be reasonably straightforward to convert your clamped repair into a welded one.

Rover got themselves into a right tizzy with the exhaust on early cars. The original system generated a resonance under the transmission tunnel that was very audible inside the car and they spent simply ages trying different arrangements. A lot of people get very excitable about exhaust back pressures being critical to correct engine tune and performance. I'd rather say that you might need to adjust the needle type to suit a different exhaust! The principle of providing the freest possible exhaust consistent with an acceptable loudness and note has got to be right and people who tell you otherwise simply don't understand how an IC engine works! Lady C's consumption figures suggest there isn't too much awry, so leave well alone.

Lucky now runs a massive diameter (3" or 3 1/4" - I forget) and a single straight through box alongside the boot. I like the exhaust note, others might find it too loud. But there's absolutely no doubt it gave a significant boost to both performance and fuel consumption. I think far more significant to noise inside the car is how you hang the system. Compliant mounts and plenty of them is the way to go! Remember we only have to fit the system once. Rover were as concerned as to how easy it was to assemble on the line as they were as to the aural result the customer had to live with.

Chris
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Well it seems I have slightly bigger things to concern me now because it looks like Lady C has burnt out a valve. Video below of exhaust sound:



She's been running a little rough,been a bit down on power and using a bit more fuel than she usually does. I checked all the valve clearances to make sure there was nothing amiss there and they're all okay. A compression check revealed good compression on 1,3 and 4, but next to nothing on No 2 cylinder. I'm guessing it'll be the exhaust valve which will be pretty annoying because I replaced all the exhaust valves last year. Oh well that'll be another job that keeps me from getting on with the V8 :roll:

Dave
 

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Hi Dave,

That sounds like a right pain! Is it common for the 4 cylinder engines to burn valves quite frequently? Retarded ignition timing and lean fuel mixtures are two causes that I am aware of that result in burnt valve/s.

Ron.
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Ron

Yes apparently it is quite common and I use mine more than most. I'm not sure how frequently it might occur on the same engine though. Hopefully not more than once or twice in its working life. The ignition timing is ok, but perhaps if I'm brutally honest setting the CO to less than 4% might be a bit lean. The condition of the plugs suggests it's running spot on though.

Dave
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
DaveHerns said:
Maybe it's valve seat recession due to lack of lead ?
That's also a possibility Dave, but I would've expected tight valve clearances if that was the case and as I said previously the valve clearances on No 2 cylinder are ok.

Dave
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
Burned out exhaust valves are a possibility if you drive the car consistently with wide open throttle. I used to see damage like this on some long suffering series Land Rovers that belonged to our own electricity board in the 1980s. Some drivers had no mechanical sympathy whatsoever.
But, do you drive like this all the time?
Perhaps you were just unlucky and a replacement valve was not up to standards.
If you can go into the trouble of cobling up a leak down tester, you will be able to pin point the trouble, but either way i am afraid that you can't avoid taking the head off!
 
Not "up" on the 4 cyl rover Dave . Do you use a lead replacement in the fuel on these ? Seems terribly bad luck as you were in there not long ago :?
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
stina said:
Not "up" on the 4 cyl rover Dave . Do you use a lead replacement in the fuel on these ? Seems terribly bad luck as you were in there not long ago :?
Yes I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus every fill stina

Demetris said:
Burned out exhaust valves are a possibility if you drive the car consistently with wide open throttle.
But, do you drive like this all the time?
Perhaps you were just unlucky and a replacement valve was not up to standards.
If you can go into the trouble of cobling up a leak down tester, you will be able to pin point the trouble, but either way i am afraid that you can't avoid taking the head off!
I think I'm pretty sympathetic Demetris. I certainly don't drive with my foot to the floor all the time, but that's not to say I don't press-on regularly. I've done more miles before fitting the new exhaust valves than after and although the old ones looked like they had been getting hot there was no sign of cracking. Might be a substandard replacement, who knows.

Dave
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
It was a cold start to the day...



...but I had work to do. I had valves to replace.



It's been around 18 months and 20,000 miles since I replaced the Lady's exhaust valves. Not that I want to make a habit of it but I made the mistake of buying cheap parts and they let me down. My fault diagnosis was spot on and when the head came off this was what I found




Offending valve removed




and the other 3 showing signs of leaking



Lapping in new valves is such a laborious task and takes ages :roll: buy they're all done and the head is back on with a new gasket and O ring. I'll finish the job tomorrow and I think I'm going to richen the mixture a touch to see if it stops this batch burning out.

Dave
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Partial success today following the rebuild. She fired up no problems and runs okay again.....but.....the top timing chain tensioner oil feed pipe has split (again) and is leaking oil like a good 'un :evil: This happened last time I had the head off and I managed to source one from within the forum's community. I guess it's just old age and the rubber has hardened to the extent where it split when I moved it out of the way. Next time I'll remove the whole pipe and treat it like glass rather than disconnecting one end and moving it out of the way. I'm putting the feelers out again for a replacement if anyone has one they can get to me yesterday :)

Still got the photo from the parts catalogue that I used last time too, item 52 :roll:



Dave
 
Hi Dave .
Good work , can't help with the bit you need , but as you say i'd have a look at the mixture , all that blue/gray looks like signs of a week mix :?
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
I've managed to source a replacement pipe :D

symes said:
just an idea-can you get a braided steel line for your engine?
I'm going to send the old one off to a pipe maker and see if they can make me a nice new one.

stina said:
all that blue/gray looks like signs of a week mix :?
She's been running at 3% CO for the last 6 months (10,000 miles) so I'll push it up to 4% and see what happens.

Dave
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
Glad you sorted it out Dave, i try to remember that cheap parts are false economy.


Regarding the oil pipe, i had a new one made in my local hydraulic shop, as i did with the oil cooler pipes.
Old ones are just that, and i could not take the risk of fail on the road.
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Before and after videos of exhaust note for comparison below. She's been running for 4 days now and apart from a bit of a tap from the top end and a bit of fettling to the choke still needing to be sorted she's back to her usual self again :D

Before



After



Dave
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
Had a bit of a moment in the old girl this morning. She died literally 10 yards away from the entrance to my work car park. No warning, just died :roll: I managed to let her roll into the car park and took a look to see what was what. Fuel was okay in pump sight glass and carb float chamber - check! 12V at the coil LT - check! No spark at No1 spark plug - hmmmmm. My first thought was the Pertonix electronic ignition module so I swapped that for the spare points and condenser in my survival kit - still nothing. Cracked open the points with the ignition on and got a nice spark across the gap - check!. I thought I might as well swap the rotor arm for the spare too and she fired up after that. I'll leave everything as it is until the weekend when I service her, so she's running on points for the first time in about 3 years.

I had a couple of people from work come out and offer me assistance etc ......cranking the engine whilst I checked for a spark and a few even suggested possible problems......"is it a fuel blockage?"........said one....."sounds like the coil".....said another......."is it an RAC job?"....joked another....."NEVER!" I said.

Start of an interesting day perhaps? Hopefully that'll be all the drama I'm subjected to.

Dave
 
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