My mean green hornet

corazon

Well-Known Member
It was indeed beer o’clock!
Yes I remember you having to do that Mark. Tbh I’d like to completely replace the lower mount with new steel but there’s little point for the amount of work and retaining the correct angle etc.
Jim
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
Late lunchtime update.
I’ll shortly be at the stage of removing the outer sill. I’ve got the front and rear jacking point box sections off and most of the B pillar drilled out.

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I’ve also removed the D post middle strengthening panel which has seen better days. It didn’t come off as nicely as I’d have liked due to some overlapping factory spot welds

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Dark clouds and thunder just rolling in, hopefully won’t lose power for continued work tonight

Jim
 
Hi Jim, looks amazing ! A great challenge but will be fantastic once done, will be watching with envious interest, love your unit too, brilliant way of building a workshop!
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
Thanks gents,
I’ve had a few days of work work so not quite as much progress, but found a few hours today to remove B post.
In hindsight I didn’t need to drill out so much, I’d planned on splitting the two parts-inner and outer, but realised while doing it that wasn’t really necessary. Anyway, it’s off

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Jim
 
Thanks gents,
I’ve had a few days of work work so not quite as much progress, but found a few hours today to remove B post.
In hindsight I didn’t need to drill out so much, I’d planned on splitting the two parts-inner and outer, but realised while doing it that wasn’t really necessary. Anyway, it’s off

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Jim
how are you going to get that B post , back in the correct position, so the doos shut?
Peter
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
Outer sill now off.
Old vs New
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Nearly at the point where I can mock up and weld in entire inner sill panel and build back up from there on this side. Can’t wait to see the clean lines and transitions.
I might pop a temporary brace into that side of the car before cutting old inner out.



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Jim
 

Ban306

Active Member
I agree and if I owned a Hat I would remove mine too, it always amazes me how you see people chopping cars cutting rusty bits out but then can then build it back up. they must have a photographic memory really interesting work any tips on how you build up a panel from nothing to work with
 
A project not for the faint hearted or the onset of dementia!
I spoke with a guy recently who is now using a type of adhesive to join panels, said that it
reduced the rust caused by trapping moisture between panels when welding.
Probably not feasible in Jim's case because so many small welds required to reassemble.
Morgans have been doing it for years on chassis and body parts.
Just have to be careful not to get front and rear doors mixed up, otherwise confusion would occur
as to weather you were coming or going? ;)
Peter
 

quattro

Well-Known Member
You're braver then me Jim, I'd be worried about the whole thing going floppy and not lining up with bolt on panels later on o_O

Saying that, mine doesn't line up that well anyway, it's a Rover thing.

I spoke with a guy recently who is now using a type of adhesive to join panels, said that it
reduced the rust caused by trapping moisture between panels when welding.Peter
If you use adhesives, you do get a better bond than spot welding as the whole area is covered not just a point in the middle. Plus as Peter says, there's no chance of moisture getting in as the whole area of seam is filled. You can also bond dissimilar surfaces, e.g. Mild steel to GRP, something which is impossible with welding.

The rubber seal channels I replaced on Sparky are bonded on with a methacrylate adhesive.
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
I will be using panel bond on some of the build, most notably the bonnet cowl induction scoop. But happy to plug weld most of the structure as per factory, makes it easy to remove and repair in future. However if all goes to plan shouldn’t need repairing for a very long time.
Plan is to Epoxy prime all panels inside and out, only removing paint through each spot weld hole once mocked up for welding.

I’ve been busy with other work commitments etc but started back on the car yesterday and today.

A bit of practice with the bead roller to start making up panels.

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Today I spent making plates to strengthen the front suspension lower arm mounts.

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Jim
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
Jim. You already know that I am right with you on this one but I have taken the opposite approach with mine, I have done what I want with it and then waited for it to break, so then I can fix it and strengthen as required.
I have read about the Aussie shock reinforcing and perils of modifying D posts etc, but so far nothing has broken ! touch wood. And I am driving it.
Just be careful that you don't end up building this car for the next owner ;)

Its a great read tho' :)

Mark
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
I hear you Mark, I'm getting very excited about actually driving the thing, but at the same time love fabricating and making things 'better'. Hopefully I can find a good compromise on building what I want and getting it done in a timely manner now it's in full swing again!
Jim
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
Bit of a break from the Rover due to work but back on it now. I made a temporary bolt in brace yesterday to keep everything square when I remove the entire inner sill.
It bolts into both sides of the car.

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Today I’ll get the inner sill off and prep the new panel for welding in.

Since I haven’t made as much progress as planned my new plan of attack is to clean up any flash surface rust that has appeared since blasting, spray the shell in epoxy primer, and sand back the areas I’m welding.
Not ideal, but at least I’ll know it’s all protected!

Jim
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
A bit more progress today. Now that the inner sill is off I have access to the chassis rail, which due to D post corrosion is also in need of repair. This would be nearly impossible to repair satisfactorily unless stripped down to this extent.
Both sides of my car are like this, the other side worse, compromising the chassis rail strength and transition to boot.

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Jim
 
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