My mean green hornet

corazon

Well-Known Member
Working on strengthening the rear strut mounts today. This is part 1, boxing the factory mount in. Next I’ll work my way up onto the chassis rail and tie a few other areas in.


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More to follow soon

Jim
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
Jim, that looks strong. We do think that the wheel is moving rear ward during braking when using uprated rubber, and also the racer had a wishbone mounting failure in the early days, but I do not know which mount failed, the strut or main arm.
So what you are doing should combat the issue of strut weakness. If the main arm is able to flex I cannot see there being a problem with it.

My next task will be to source a spherical bearing for the strut rod to better support the inboard end.
It is a pleasure following your journey.

M
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
A slight return to the front mounts today. I’d been meaning to sort out some spacer tubes to further reinforce and make neat and functional for assembly/disassembly.
This is seamless mechanical tubing with a nice satisfying fit for 19mm or 3/4 socket (I’m using larger 1/2” unf bolts with my new joints) Not much room for error on setup and welding but I’ll make it work.
The tubes will be welded to the factory metal first, new plate then slid over and welded into position.

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Jim
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
Darting around a bit today. I came across the car’s ARB mounts looking for something else, and with the bellcrank casting already on my bench it seemed the perfect time to do what I’d been planning for years.
Upgrade from 5/16 to 3/8 UNF bolts. Ignore the bolt length, they’re the only 3/8 I had in stock.
I shall likely use socket caphead bolts so that the head doesn’t sit proud.

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Jim
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
Do you mean in order to use a cap head and have it flush you will mill a recess into the cap ? Is there enough meat for that ? looks pretty close to the edge to me.
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
No, sorry that wasn't very clear. A 3/8 hex head being 9/16 AF would not be fully within the dimensions, the corners would protrude over the edges slightly looking from above, or below as it would be..I think the tensile area for clamping would be ok but I'd prefer a fitting to not overhang if you know what I mean?
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
I know it’s a trivial thing but the devil is in the detail. I feel much happier with the fitment of these. I am aware of the potential problems with 12.9 grade fasteners and bzp, but they are from a reputable company (Margnors) and thought in this application nothing too dramatic would happen if one did end up breaking (highly unlikely I think)

When I come to final assembly I’ll use a light loctite on them.

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No real progress today unfortunately, lots of distractions!

Jim
 
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