My mean green hornet

I’ve got 245 tyres for the front and 275 for the rear, and they’re both on zero offset. I think you had all 4 the same and on 265 tyres iirc? Mine being further out with the offset and slightly narrower may have been the accidental sweet spot :D
 
Bulkhead is all sealed up now. Went with 3mm plate to uprated the bellcrank mounting areas, there was some deformation on my base unit here so no chances being taken. Should add to overall stiffness too, (cue Micheal Scott)
Holes were jigged up and redrilled. I can now use slightly thinner concentric stand-off bosses, shimming at final setup if needed. Of course my suspension arms are adjustable too..

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Something interesting happening with the floors next ;)

Jim
 
So here’s the plan for the floors. Double skinning with a gap to create a strong box structure.
The factory floor is remaining intact with a couple of tweaks in the form of flatter panels where feet go.
This is to gain enough clearance to fit the secondary sheeting which forms a flat bottom to the car.
The gains being strength, rigidity and aero- in the form of less turbulence under the car.
In between the skins will be dynamat sound deadening.

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Jim
 
Thanks Damian, I’m starting to shift from that headspace of just working on a shell to the prospect of painting it and bolting components on, feels alien lol, but good :cool:
 
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Both sides mostly ready to weld now. Sheets cut long so I can roll the fronts to follow the factory floor up sweep

A rethink of the bootfloor has happened too. I was rather attached to my bead rolled one but have gone with a sheet of 2mm now instead which encompasses the diff mounting crossmember too, adding more strength and tying in those areas nicely. I’m planning on adding some kind of diffuser here too.
Drilled out for the BMW poly mounts and mocked up my basic Jag diff carrier.

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Well I’m going to lose a fair bit on the doors and roof, the added floor weight is of course low down and only 1.2mm sheet so the trade off is minor compared to the rigidity gained I think.
The 2mm flat boot floor is similar weight to the factory boot, I should actually work that out.
Unsprung weight will be better on the front with the alloy calipers and tubular suspension arms, and I’m considering making an aluminium driveshaft and half shafts..
 
Something unimaginable happened today, I sprayed some epoxy on the shell :eek:

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I gave the underside another light blasting to remove any surface corrosion and then straight on with the epoxy leaving no chance of anything creeping in.
This is all in preparation for tomorrow’s venture: Dynamat the floorpans and weld the new flat sheet bottom panels on. There’s a bracing tube in each side located at the deepest points too.

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Jim
 
A quick roundup of recent work of interest done to the shell (there’s plenty of standard repair panel replacement finished on the front end too but once you’ve seen one..)
Sills capped off with 2mm plate, tubs both finished, modified internal crossmember- blasted inside and vertical plates added, 2x 2mm thick joining plates each side filling the voids between rear chassis leg and sill- the factory connection between these two is basically just sheet so wanted to really tie those in a lot better. Finished off with rolled sheet panels to continue the sweeping lines inside the car.


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The initial reason to change the internal crossmember was to enable fitment of 4 Porsche front seats, the rears separated from their frames but still full length backs.
But upon opening the box section it was clear it could be improved upon with the vertical strengthening plates. It also had a small amount of light rust which I was able to media blast and prime in epoxy. Finally it was clear that the connection between rear chassis leg and sill is very weak, so this got addressed at the same time as documented in the previous post.

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Made a new mounting bracket for my aluminium rad too, it’s for a 200sx from memory. Just need to make some nice clamps for the top.
Also extended the slam panel and made it bolt on

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That radiator was made for it, would be nice to have a hole so the drain bung is functional. I got to ask, what is the rolling chassis on the dollies ?
 
That radiator was made for it, would be nice to have a hole so the drain bung is functional. I got to ask, what is the rolling chassis on the dollies ?

Yes gonna hole saw that out next, along with a few extra to lighten it a bit.

Ah that’s an Exocet, based on MX5 running gear. I’ve hugely undercharged for building that unfortunately, there’s a hell of lot of fab and tweaking needed, and I’m building it to pass IVA too..

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Aha, we were watching MEV for a while as they dallied with a DBR1 'ish' kind of product, they seem to have dropped it now.
My dear lady has an MX5, for a while I was fairly meh about it, but more recently I have got to spend time with it and get it to go nicely, It has grown on me a lot and is a lot of fun.
 
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