New project 74 3500

It is a good sign that you could take the lifters out from the top. Once they are reasonably worn, that tends to be no longer possible.

ButterFingers said:
I had a good look under today and even if all the bolts can be accessed and undone, the sump will not come off unless the exhaust system is removed, the front crossover pipe completely blocks the sump
from dropping down and out. Not the best design in under car access that I have come across over the years.
I suppose that one could always cut the crossover pipe and then re-weld it, but that seems
rather ex-stream to just drop the sump?
Click to expand...

The exhaust does indeed require dropping at the front to allow removal of the sump.

Ron.
 
got the inlet manifold cleaned up, carbs stripped and cleaned as good as I can etc and top of the cylinder head cleaned in situ, another oil change and runs a lot quieter with no tappet noise, but now still runs lump and wont rev past 2000rpm without wanting to choke up and cut out (does not rev smoothly) idles but a bit all over the place

the carb on passenger side appeared to spit fuel out (air box off), so I tried to adjust mixture and idle screw on both carbs but I'm not really getting anywhere

any other suggestions? it starts easy enough but overall just appears to choke itself, points gap good around 16 thou,
 
My car had a 34 year lay up and was not easy to get to run right. The tank was full of tar which when activated by new fuel dispersed into the lines, pump and carbs. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine filter and run a hose into a bucket this will tell you if contamination is present.
Persistent flooding was another problem. The return to the tank was blocked at the T at the sender unit, The return there has a tiny hole at the end of the pipe as a restrictor, it is easily blocked resulting in the carbs flooding.
The carbs will need a full rebuild to work right, especially if you have HIF6 units. Pay close attention to the cold start devices, they cause over fueling and lumpy running.
The mechanical fuel pump will need re building, beware if you have one with large poppet valves they are not easy to get anymore, this meant I had to go electric in the end.
It took many weeks to iron out all the issues on mine, but it is worth it in the end.
The pic you show of the lifter valley does not look too gruesome. Deffo clean out the sump, 1/2" of sludge in mine and partially blocked strainer.
 
update, not had much time recently but back to rover in past few days, put in new points and condenser but now I have no spark,

on testing the coil I have a live at + side not on both, tried another coil (not new but I have a new one coming) same thing, no spark at points when turning over either, I did not alter or change any wirers so I am unsure as to what I could have done, points do open and are set to 15 thou

any suggestions?
 
capacitor shorted out to baseplate or faulty new capacitor, unless your old capacitor was faulty you are probably better off sticking with it, new ones are a crapshoot.
 
Tried different condensers and coil but same scenario, the test lamp illumanates slightly brighter on the wire when off the coil than testing it when attached onto coil lug on + side, normal or iffy connections?

For all the work I've done I've hardly touched any connections or wiring really, so this is starting to get frustrating lol
 
cobraboy said:
My car had a 34 year lay up and was not easy to get to run right. The tank was full of tar which when activated by new fuel dispersed into the lines, pump and carbs. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine filter and run a hose into a bucket this will tell you if contamination is present.
Persistent flooding was another problem. The return to the tank was blocked at the T at the sender unit, The return there has a tiny hole at the end of the pipe as a restrictor, it is easily blocked resulting in the carbs flooding.
The carbs will need a full rebuild to work right, especially if you have HIF6 units. Pay close attention to the cold start devices, they cause over fueling and lumpy running.
The mechanical fuel pump will need re building, beware if you have one with large poppet valves they are not easy to get anymore, this meant I had to go electric in the end.
It took many weeks to iron out all the issues on mine, but it is worth it in the end.
The pic you show of the lifter valley does not look too gruesome. Deffo clean out the sump, 1/2" of sludge in mine and partially blocked strainer.
Click to expand...

One of my TC's had a similar 20 year nap, and I now need to get the tar sludge out of fuel tank. Any suggestions of a tried and true method...I have the tank out of car, and empty, so it is easy enough to handle. Thanks
 
Michael Stella said:
One of my TC's had a similar 20 year nap, and I now need to get the tar sludge out of fuel tank. Any suggestions of a tried and true method...I have the tank out of car, and empty, so it is easy enough to handle. Thanks
Click to expand...
Back when I was young and stupid, it took the sender out and used my hand to dig out as much as I could, but if I had to do it over, I'd prefer paying someone to do it for me....
It will need to be done sooner or later because I am headed to another decade of not driving the poor dear and she had half a tankful when parked.....:oops:
 
I put a steam cleaner in through the filler and sender holes, that got a bit out. I bought 2 galls of Acetone, I found that this was the only stuff that would make the tar runny.
Ultimately I failed to get it all out and had to source another tank.
 
Check the oil in the carb dashpots. I rebuilt the carb on my Land Rover which had been standing for 20 years. I found the bottom half of the damper was filled with solid crud, so the piston couldn’t raise all the way up. I got it running before I rebuilt the carb, and it ran ok at idle, but I doubt it would have revved or run well under load.
 
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