Not starting

had my own starting issues. changed points.leads ,plugs .cap .rotor arm etc ..it eventually runs but seem to run on less than 8 pots. always needs choke too. have now thrown in full electronic dizzy and sports coil ( 12V no ballast wire ) I found I can easily start though only for few moments by a squirt of fuel in intake. egg cup full seems to be OK. time i get to drivers seat and crank up .the fuel has given off plenty of fumes and firing up at least first time seems OK. so I assuming I have a fuel/air issue.? my carbs have been refurbed with new seals etc both then balanced with a kit . spark timing checked with strobe and colour tune on each cylinder ( blue ) . still a bugger to start and needs good bit of cranking with full choke . even then after starting cuts out and revs needs to be kept up until it gets warm. so no chance getting car moving when cold engine !!
just thought i'd throw that lot in to cheer you up knowing your not only one enjoying the frustration of owning a car seemingly dedicated to trying our patience. managed to get it to a local show ( plough corner ) and after a nice sunny warm day it started ( on choke) and ran up road seemingly well until I pulled off road when it promptly cut out ! no servo effect on brakes is mind sharpening ..
 
I couldn't wait for the new points to arrive so I cleaned up the old ones that I had which were pretty shot, put them in expecting no spark but hey presto a spark even though it wasn't that clean a spark, so fired it up and it started and ran. It ran a little lumpy but that is probably the points, but at least it proves that the Powerspark dizzy was the problem. I'm sending it back and asking for a refund, then sticking with points from now on.
 
I'm sending it back and asking for a refund, then sticking with points from now on.

Glad to hear that you found the culprit. A better alternative Mick would be Lumenition. I fitted it to my Rover circa 1990 with the power module lasting till 2015 before giving intermittent problems. New power module fitted and away we go again. Infinitely superior to points, especially if you use your Rover often.

Ron.
 
After the experience I've had I'll probably stick with points from now on. I can't send the Powerspark back as Simonbbc declined my return request. probably as it was a few day after their 28 days, so now have an expensive door stop.
 
I've got Lumenition too, also had it on a Scimitar. IMHO it's a great system and I'd definately fit it to any other points ignition car I intended using regularly.
 
After the experience I've had I'll probably stick with points from now on. I can't send the Powerspark back as Simonbbc declined my return request. probably as it was a few day after their 28 days, so now have an expensive door stop.

I had great success with the Pertronix unit, only took 20 minutes to install and tweak timing.

A bit perplexing that Simonbbc would decline a genuine problem with an install with out at least checking his unit is not faulty first, Bad press tends to stay a long time on the net. As a small time electronics manufacturer my self I would most certainly have accepted your unit back for checking and most likely refunded regardless if the unit was faulty or not, indeed on occasion I have supplied a free unit at my own expense even though the installer caused the problem. Selling product isn't just about cash, it 99% about service and solving a customer problem.

I will certainly remember your story in the future when it comes to Simonbbc, I am sure many others will read your experience in the years going forward on this forum. It really isn't about faults its about what the supplier does to fix it!
 
Glad to hear that you found the culprit. A better alternative Mick would be Lumenition. I fitted it to my Rover circa 1990 with the power module lasting till 2015 before giving intermittent problems. New power module fitted and away we go again. Infinitely superior to points, especially if you use your Rover often.

Ron.
Fitted Lumenition in 1978, have replaced choppers twice since then (first time cos I broke it, fiddling) second time at the beginning of this year when chasing down rough idling problem which was due to a faulty new filter valve for the brake servo.

Also had good experience with Petronix on a Sunbeam. Much cheaper to purchase and does not have an external power module if original appearance is a consideration.

Cold starting on both vastly improved by replacing the points system
 
When I had issue with mine I phoned them and they were really helpful. Try a call it doesn't cost much.
 
New points fitted today and still running like a sick pig. idle when warmed up and off the choke is as it is in the video clip, ranges from 1500 revs to almost a stall.

The sparks at the plugs are still showing a residual spark as it did with the Powerspark dizzy fitted.
Right bank 2-4-6-8 (slowed down)

Left bank 1-3-5-7 (slowed down)
 
I can't hear it, just engine noise. It sounds louder on the clip than it does in real life.
I have Chris York on Facebook working through things with me at the moment.
 
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I know that this may sound silly, but the connectors on top of the break fluid reservoir will, if they are disconnected or problematic, prevent your engine from starting. Years ago I was helping a friend to bleed his brakes. Afterwards his engine was dead, nothing. Turned out one of the connectors had come adrift on the reservoir. Cleaned and refitted, and the engine burst into life. Worth having a look at.

Ron.
 
Anybody in Essex that might be able to lend a hand? Got to be plugs or leads when you see the cross sparking in those videos IMHO?
 
The experiences I've had in the past with Powerspark equipment would make quite a sizeable non-complimentary post (or even an article), but because the forum rules frown on that sort of supplier comment I'll hold my water.

PM's might be a different matter. :mad:
 
She goes! After much head scratching bruised hands and replacement ignition parts, I finally decided to remove the carbs, give them a clean and a blow through and reset them up again following a advice gained from Chris York and others. After establishing that the throttle link rod was goosed because it was a botched rod from a different car that wasn't even adjustable, it was throwing the carbs out of sink. I started from scratch set the timing statically, balanced the carbs, and adjusted the mixture. The car now starts, idles quite smoothly at 600 revs, and drives like a dream. I had to put the throttle link rod back on as I don't have a replacement yet, it was a little short so lifts one of the throttles off the stop so idle is 1000 revs now and carbs are slightly out of sync. But she is now drivable. I still have the cross sparking but I reckon that is down to low quality parts available these days, I bet if those with V8s put neons on their cars it would produce the same results!

If anyone has a spare throttle link rod for HIF6 carbs that they would like to part with, give me a shout.
 
Have replaced the short one and long one with adjustable rods, which I searched and found on iibey. One rod complete with heads and balls was approx EUR 10. The one to connect both carbs had plastic heads on mine and then it´s worth to throw them out. BTW, Burlen also has those rods in various lengths.
 
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