off centre rear wheels

DamianZ28

DamianZ28

Active Member
Finally after rebuilding all the back end it's back on its wheels, but noticed the very 'off, off set' alignment on the rear wheels, as you can see the OSR is almost touching the inner wheel arch lip but the NSR has about 1" or more gap, pretty sure it wasn't like that before l took it apart earlier this year...can it be adjusted via the pan-hard bar, seems a lot though , or l have put something back wrong which seems hard to do, wonder if the top links are round the wrong way, the longer part is bolted to the inner wing and the shorter end to top of the de-dion tube splaying outwards if that makes sense. A few people have suggested to look at the inner face on the SD1 alloys to see if one has been 'shaved' , they came with the car so don't have the original steels.



1607956138080.png

1607956179079.png
 
Hi, It's probably machining tolerances between individual wheels, Try moving the wheels around the car to see which is best fit. You can also adjust the panhard bar. Plus make sure the wheel/tyre is not rubbing the inner arch if the outer arch clearance is excessive. More playing needed.;)

Colin
 
Hi Colin, yeah sounds a likely candidate, I'll have a look and also see about adjusting the panhard bar, its not rubbing on the inner arch so that's one good thing lol!
 
:hmm:

That looks strange. I can't really see how adjusting the panhard rod is going to take that up TBH. The diff and the length of the driveshafts depict the position of the wheels, not the stabiliser rod. Can you measure to check if the diff is central?

I would have the wheels off and measure the Offset on all of them.
 
When you lowered the car, did you move it back and forth to let the suspension settle? Usually they remain winded up uniformly left and right side, but i had to mention it just in case. The LH side looks too much in, even for the standard offset wheels.
 
What Demetris said, however as many with Mag wheels will tell you its not uncommon for P6's to have body rub on one side and not the other to a greater or lessor extent.


Graeme
 
Hi Rich, yep it is a big gap to adjust with the panhard rod, I'll check several measurements, silly question but are the driveshafts the same length, I didn't notice that they were when cleaning/painting & refitting but then again I didn't have them side by side apart storing them in the boot for reassembly, even then they are not level with each other.
1607960856112.png
 
The diff is located by the rubber mounts and there is no adjustment designed into the system. Trying to adjust using the panhard bar (it's really not a panhard, but that's a separate thread) isn't going to work and will just load up the rubber mounts in unexpected ways.

As for what the problem actually is, I'm at a loss. Maybe it's just a build up of tolerances, and loosing all the diff mounting bolts, pushing it to the left and tightening them back up again, then adjusting the panhard so it just fits without any side load will help

Yours
Vern
 
Once I had a car with the front fender lips rolled to clear the tyres. I noticed that the wheel nuts only screwed on a coupe of turns before coming tight. The rear nuts screwed on many more turns before going tight.
It took me years to find out why. One day I wire brushed the hub really well and saw a feint line appear. A previous owner had made a spacer to fit on the hub face, the fit around the centre and all the studs was so good it was invisible. I eventually removed both the 1/4" thick spacers and the wheel nuts had a lot more hold.
Folks do strange things to old cars !
 
cobraboy said:
Once I had a car with the front fender lips rolled to clear the tyres. I noticed that the wheel nuts only screwed on a coupe of turns before coming tight. The rear nuts screwed on many more turns before going tight.
It took me years to find out why. One day I wire brushed the hub really well and saw a feint line appear. A previous owner had made a spacer to fit on the hub face, the fit around the centre and all the studs was so good it was invisible. I eventually removed both the 1/4" thick spacers and the wheel nuts had a lot more hold.
Folks do strange things to old cars !
Click to expand...

Hi, That may have been to do with difference between the wheels use on 4 cyl and 8 cyl cars because they have different hubs and wheels and not everyone realised, he may have been trying to fix a problem without understanding the cause.

Colin
 
Sorry, the car in question was not a Rover. I just used the situation to illustrate.
Begs the question though......... are Rover 4 cyl and 8 cyl rear hubs the same depth ?
 
Probably find if you put on a Churchill frame that the chassis itself is the culprit.


Graeme
 
As long as the complete drive shafts are the same length; your diff isn't centred. There is an amount of movement in the mounts in two places 1- the rubber mountings holes and 2- the plate the diff bolts to has slots where the main mounting bolts go trough. No 1 movement is very small so I'd shove both mounts away from the near rubbing wheel. When that doesn't fix it you need to take the 'panhard' rod off completely then loosen the main mounting bolts (the long ones from inside the boot not the three on the back of the plate) then try to slide the diff unit across in the slots (not easy, a Transmission Jack helps heaps). That should line things up. Finally you will need to clean up the adjustable end of the Panhard rod, undo the lock nut (if it is still there), attach the diff end then adjust the body end so you can get it onto the peg (using new rubbers and Rubber Grease) without tilting the diff either way. Lock up the locknut. All done; car should now be pointed toward the pub.

The 'Panhard' rod is just there to stop the diff unit rocking, changing the motion to up-down against both mounts. Consequently a transmission jack under the diff for the movement part needs to be packed so the diff stays flat.
 
Hi guys, firstly thank you all for all the great input, much appreciated
1f44d.png
. Um so yes l have discovered why it has moved and dropped more to the floor, it does help when refitting the two large bolts to hang the diff hanger is too also fit the two large washers which stops the two bolts pulling through the rubber mount and leaving one side of the diff hanging down...eeek! Explains everything.... In my defence your honour I did box n label all that come off during rear end strip down and didn't have two large washers left over after refitting !, even had the bloody workshop manual diagram & still didn't twig! possibly they were not fitted to begin with, who knows, . live and learn, so now l require two new diff mounts and two large top washers.....more creeping to the wife
1f609.png

Glad I didn't take for test run around the block, could have been messy! So I guess with the two large washers fitted over the top of the mountings then would this also prevent the the two long bolt assembly moving from side to side once tightened ? Panhard rod bushes are also new!
Diff is now supported on axle stand, car now also sitting on axle stands (again) at the rear ready for the repair work!
Just to check, the 3rd pic, is the large bottom washer supposed to be on the top ? (axles stand holding back in position) and is the workshop diagram relating to this model (1973 V8) I assume it is as all my bits are as shown (apart from the two washers of course) :-/

1608023983364.png

1608024015510.png

1608024166725.png

1608024214985.png
 
On pic 3 that large washer with the turned down rim I have fitted on top of the bush, with the rim turned down. Below the bush I have a large flat plain washer @ 2mm thick, slightly smaller in diameter. 1972 car.

This is how my car came to me, no doubt someone will correct if wrong.
 
mikecoombs said:
The 'Panhard' rod is just there to stop the diff unit rocking, changing the motion to up-down against both mounts. Consequently a transmission jack under the diff for the movement part needs to be packed so the diff stays flat.
Click to expand...

This is not quite the correct way of putting it, though it gets to the same place. The bar's purpose is to transfer the side loads from the tires into the chassis, so the rubber diff mounts just have to handle the weight of the diff and no other loads.

Yours
Vern
 
You're not wrong Mark, the large rimmed washer should be on top of the bush, inside the boot. If the rubber failed the large washer would stop the bolt just disappearing through the cross member.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top