Oil Pump Removal and Upgrade Kit

Stina wrote,...
we should be out enjoying

Hi Stina,

Sounds a top idea to me :D

You really must make a note to yourself so that you remember to take your camera. Would be great to see some views from your lovely Rover's windscreen :wink:

Ron.
 
Hi Guys
Sounds like you had a wild rumpus on this thread while I was a way in Melbourne drinking lattes and munching croissant .
Anyway came back to find the new timing chain and cogs in my letter box .
As you can see its slightly different to a standard P6 set up . .Is apparently for a p76 but fits the P6b .
It fits a lot lot tighter in there c/f the original .
Ive lined up the new cogs on the keyways in the same position I took the old one off. Nothing moved from my markings .
As this new one has only three "arms" this is how it positioned itself .
Question #1 is this OK
"' #2 what is the torque setting for the primary cog . The WM says 160 Lb/ft for the crank pulley but nothing else listed .
Thanks
Gerald
 

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Gerald,

My Sd1 V8 Haynes manual says 40 to 45 lbf ft which is 54 to 61 Nm. I believe the setup on the Sd1 engine is identical to a P6 engine so this can be used.
Regards

Peter
 
roverp5Bcoupe said:
Gerald,

My Sd1 V8 Haynes manual says 40 to 45 lbf ft which is 54 to 61 Nm. I believe the setup on the Sd1 engine is identical to a P6 engine so this can be used.
Regards

Peter
Thanks for that info Peter
When undoing the same , the bolt was quite easy to release , so I imagined it was a lighter torque .

Hey Stina - Oil thrower back in place as you fore warned . Would have been a PO if left behind .
I hate it when there a nut or bolt is left over from a job . Does my head in .

Im not bothered about this thread being used as a venting machine .
Gerald
 
Hi Gerald .
Yep . can confirm 40/45 lb/ft from the P6 workshop manual , (Reading it in bed :D ) It's in the text , section on fitting the timing gears , not in the settings section for some reason :?
Those gears will bring your cam timing back in line with the original settings , will feel " sprightly " again :D
 
Geordie Jim said:
Whoa,
Just read through this and couldn't believe the "heated" arguments.

Simple Facts. Pump only gives FLOW. (not pressure)
Pressure is due to resistance( to flow)
Increase in pump capacity ( longer gears) will result in more flow.
Higher revs will result in more flow.
Ergo- more flow, with no change in resistance will result in higher pressure.

The resistance (to flow ) is dependent on the engine clearances. that is the state of (wear) the bearings.

The relief valve is only to limit the max pressure.

The only other factor is the oil viscosity, and that is also temperature dependent.
Don't think I have missed anything.....
Jim.

I believe you've nailed it :D

Tim
 
stina said:
Hi Gerald .
Yep . can confirm 40/45 lb/ft from the P6 workshop manual , (Reading it in bed :D ) It's in the text , section on fitting the timing gears , not in the settings section for some reason :?
Those gears will bring your cam timing back in line with the original settings , will feel " sprightly " again :D

I can't believe how slack that old timing chain had gone . I guess after 40 yrs of use , its not too bad . Ive gone slack in some areas too .
Shame they can't be replaced easier like a modern .
Ive always liked a chain over a cam belt - too many horror stories of snapped belts .
 
Hi Gerald,

There is an actual benefit in running the camshaft with a stretched timing chain as far as top end performance is concerned. Retarding the camshaft timing will, all things being equal, improve the top end by shifting the torque peak further up the rev range. Advancing the camshaft timing does the opposite, improving the bottom end performance, which for a road going car is ultimately far more useful.

Ron.
 
Thanks for that info Ron , I will be setting her for highway motoring .
Ive been dragging the chain [ not the timing chain } .
I have only just got all the bits and bobs back onto the motor . The a/c throws up its own set of frustrations when the system is still connected and gassed up .
Its a bit of a mission living out in the booeye and having to wait for an item until the next trip to town .
Throw a family death into the mix and not much has progressed under the bonnet .
One thing I did find , is the guy that put a new a/c condenser in for me , didnt bolt the radiator down and the whole thing was flopping around in there waiting to get munted against the fan . Lazy third world B*****rd ! Totally left the two bolts out . He must have seen the left over bolts on the floor . This sort of thing really gets me going . It is a very tight fit in there ,but hey !! bad bad man .
I managed to break the dizzy rotor last night - in a hurry to get her turning over to prime the new pump .
I had the dizzy cover off and didnt remove the rotor and the cap fell onto the dizzy - lazy 3rd world B . The spare I have in stock won't fit down into the shaft since I went electronic - Aaah! 5mm from starting her up !!
Another wait until the next town trip . Another wait now
Gerald

I have removed a section of your post Gerald. The change in no way compromises the overall theme.

Ron,
Moderator.
 
To much information.....But please tell me more :LOL:

Following contact from a forum member, I have edited Gerald's post.

Ron.
Moderator.
 
ghce said:
To much information.....But please tell me more :LOL:

Following contact from a forum member, I have edited Gerald's post.

Ron.
Moderator.


Woz I being sexist , racist ,ageist , ist ist again ? They're gonna want to know now you did that .
One complaint ! is that all ?
I know have a new rotor in hand . Also a ship load of farm work to get into and the weather is shiny . Farm work wins !!
I can't see putting a new rotor in and starting her up being that easy . Im going to err on the side of safety .
Gerald
 
I bet it was concerning your shopping comments , and i bet everyone'll think it was me moaning , but it wasn't , coz i don;t give a sh**e about such things :D

Shame about your wait for parts , i'm looking forward to hearing how it runs after all the work you've put in ,Ensure the pump is primed with the drill method , refit the dizzy , them remove the main lead from the coil and spin it on the key to ensure the light goes out , then your good to go . That's how i did it any hoo to be sure of oil pressure :D
 
OK here's the thing !!
All those following this thread will be pleased to hear the operation was successful and the patient is now resting in her shed with a new oil pump that is delivering the goods at the right pressure .
The doctor completing the transplant was very concerned on doing the first start up that the pressure gauge shot up to the very high end and stayed there at idle .
"Oh no" thought the doctor but noticed the pressure gauge gradually dropped to half way on idle after the motor warmed up . After consulting his left brain he was told it was probably all that vaseline in the oil pump had most likely got into the sender and therefore upset the basket .
There may be other " doctors " out there that will have a finer reason .
The doctor spent the rest of the day putting the front panels back on the car after all that fresh black paint had been cleaned up .
He can't wait to take her out but needs to fiddle with the timing a bit more .
The doc would like to thank all your wonderful support as he would no way have attempted this without your back up.
If anyone has been thinking about doing this upgrade - like Nike - just Do It
Gerald
 

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Hi Doc . You've done well by your patient , given the old lady a new lease of life , she looks good in her under wear too , very smart under the hood .
Gould be right on the diagnosis of the vasiline hanging around and giving a high reading , you'll know for sure next time you fire it up from cold . Keep away from the throttle for minute or so , so as to avoid strain on the dizzy drive . One advantage you have is your oil won't get as cold as ours can here on a winters morning . If it is still too high you can now adjust the gasket thickness with the oil pump on the motor now the drilling of the casing and initial setting up is done .
Well done Doctor G :D
 
Hello Stina
Ive have put in a new pressure relief spring . I had the option of three tensions , and chose the lighter one .
If the pressure runs too high after Ive taken a drive in her , I may well put the old spring back in and see what happens before placing another gasket in - much easier . Good pointer though .
I might leave her for a bit and do some farm stuff . Im sort of over all the new aches and pains Ive picked up from trying to work in odd places while holding the planet up in its orbit .
Hey good news No oil leaks . It can't be British built any more .
Sorry [ hold's head in shame ]
Gerald
 
stina said:
Hi Doc . You've done well by your patient , given the old lady a new lease of life , she looks good in her under wear too , very smart under the hood .

Stina
Quite enjoyed fine sanding the alloy bits and high polishing with alu polish and buffing wheel ..
Something to do when nothing to do . Im A.D.D in the head you know .
I took a long time painting all those HT leads blue . Couldn't find red paint like you used on your motor .
Joe King
 
I've just read through this wondering if it was all back in one piece yet and it seems you'd done it so well done.

You did remember to fit the oil thrower back on the crankshaft didn't you?
 
testrider said:
I've just read through this wondering if it was all back in one piece yet and it seems you'd done it so well done.

You did remember to fit the oil thrower back on the crankshaft didn't you?

Hello Testrider
I had a little "postit" stuck to the back of my brain - it read ' Don't forget the oil thrower disc , love Stina "
I had one bolt left over at one stage but sorted that out by throwing it into the back of my shed . [ I'm pulling ya leg ]
I actually found holes where bolts should have been . Past work from naughty grease monkies that have worked on her [I won't call them mechanics ] .
Stuff that I will be doing myself , with a little help from my forum friends.
Im feeling very cock sure at the moment .
Gerald
 
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