P6 2200 TC electronic ignition.

S

simmosimkins

Member
Guys anyone help? Thought it would be really simply to fit electronic ignition to my 22tc. However although researched it a fair bit, still not sure what I need. I have a standard system that works ok. The dizzy functions fine, no seized weights, vacuum works as it should and the car runs very well (particulary on 95 + ron juice) As I have said I have read all sorts about ballast resistors, rotor arms and ignition kits/ non compatiable coils etc. I am completely confused! (it doesnt take a lot at the best of times!!) Do I just need the kit itself and a new rotor arm,or also a new coil or even a new distributor itself?? Whatever I need does anyone know where I can buy a correct all in one kit from? Many thanks in advance
 
Here is a post from my 'project' thread in Members Projects. As it turns out just fitting it as a direct replacement works a treat. Removing the ballast resister and putting a 12v coil in is only a recommendation and not a must. And I would say that recommendation is based on all the cars the kit works with. The 4 pot, well mine does, works perfect leaving the original coil and ballast resister in place. And I've used her in sub zero temps! After fitting the timing will be out by a few degrees so will need setting up again.

I fitted an Accu Spark kit.


Needed it file down one of the screws to get it to sit flush, only took a few seconds.


Fits as quick as fitting normal points, had to set up the timing again as it fires at a different point so throw the current setting out by a long way. As I got a cheap second hand strobe light from eBay that was a quick job. :)

Runs very smooth now, just as it did when I fit new points but this time the tuning will not drift out as the points ware. Also behaves a lot better when cold and on the choke. :)
I've left it fitted with the standard coil and ballast resister as A I could not find it and B the kit is supposed to work ok with a ballast resister. Although I'm not sure if there is one fitted to the car, there must be one but I could not find it. If I measure the voltage at the coil it's 12.5 volts, I thought with a ballast resister it's supposed to be lower????
Anyway seems to work fine so no point messing about fitting the Accu Spark coil I also brought.
 
richarduk said:
Although I'm not sure if there is one fitted to the car, there must be one but I could not find it. If I measure the voltage at the coil it's 12.5 volts, I thought with a ballast resister it's supposed to be lower????
Click to expand...

Well, our 1972 Rover 2000 Automatic definitely had one, it had burnt through the insulation and was visibly getting hot (going red)!

One thing if you do measure is that you measure with the ignition on (obviously), wires connected to the coil, and points CLOSED. With the engine not running, in theory it should measure half battery voltage (6v or so) on the + side of the coil (white/yellow wire, if I recall), and measure 0v (or so) on the - side of the coil (white/black or white/slate wire)

I suspect you measured it either with the points open, or one or both of the wires disconnected from the coil/distributor.
 
darth sidious said:
richarduk said:
Although I'm not sure if there is one fitted to the car, there must be one but I could not find it. If I measure the voltage at the coil it's 12.5 volts, I thought with a ballast resister it's supposed to be lower????
Click to expand...

Well, our 1972 Rover 2000 Automatic definitely had one, it had burnt through the insulation and was visibly getting hot (going red)!

One thing if you do measure is that you measure with the ignition on (obviously), wires connected to the coil, and points CLOSED. With the engine not running, in theory it should measure half battery voltage (6v or so) on the + side of the coil (white/yellow wire, if I recall), and measure 0v (or so) on the - side of the coil (white/black or white/slate wire)

I suspect you measured it either with the points open, or one or both of the wires disconnected from the coil/distributor.
Click to expand...

I spoke to John the other day, the reason I got the full volts is because it was not running, If I undersand it, the ballast only comes into effect when the engine is running. Anyways, just fitting as a direct replacement has worked a treat. Just as a test, when I get home tonight i'll pop the cap off and see if its hot, as well as the coil.
 
Well, the ballast is a resistor, so unless there's a flow of current, it won't drop the volts. Points closed, current is flowing, volt drop. Points open, no current flows, no volt drop. Running, it should register something like 8-10v, I think (an averaging out of the varying volt levels).

Be careful though, though they sometimes use the term "feels electric" for something that feels good, HT voltage (especially electronic ignition) can jump and feeling the current that drives into your hand/arm feels anything but good!
 
The ballast resistor on my 2200tc wasn't a specific component, but a length of higher resistance wire running from behind the dash along the right hand chassis rail to under the servo. I bypassed it when I upgraded to electronic ignition. Just disconnect the ballast wire from the loom at both ends and run another regular wire in it's place. I left the original wire in place in the loom in case I ever need to return the car to points.

You will get a more powerful spark from running a non ballasted setup. The ballasted system is there to reduce the load on the points and prevent arcing. The electronic modules are solid state so are capable of taking the full load.

If you are fitting a new rotor arm, it's worth going for the red type. The black type have the metal contact riveted to the plastic and the rivet can come loose causing poor running. This happened to me and caused a misfire under load. The red type have the metal bit integrally moulded and don't suffer from this problem.

There's details of how I fitted my kit towards the bottom of this page viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7862&start=45

Tom
 
Tom W said:
The ballast resistor on my 2200tc wasn't a specific component, but a length of higher resistance wire running from behind the dash along the right hand chassis rail to under the servo

Tom
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what it was on our old 2000Auto also. Had a pink insulation sheath with a white tracer, if I recall. The actual internal cores were "dirty silver" coloured (Nichrome wire (an alloy of nickel and chromium), I'm told), if I recall and for want of a better description. It's a length of wire with a distributed resistance, yes, but it's still effectively overall a resistor which obeys the laws of physics, albeit a more flexible and longer variant!
 
old topic but I have question who is here best.

some information about the 2200TC ignition order, and where is cilinder 1 connected, has
the ignition a markpoint for that on the distributor?.

I have it run and can drive but do run not wel in idle, shaking engine, etc, I have done the carbs
maybe the seal of the trotlle axlle su hif6 carb is problem, these are not good anymore.

regards
 
pat180269 said:
Connect your strobe light to the rear most cylinder.
Click to expand...

I need to now where cable one sit on the distributor, I did see that order is 1-3-4-2
and cilinder one has most a line or dip in distributor,

regards
 
1) Remove the spark plugs at least from No 4 - rear cylinder.
2) Turn the engine in the normal direction using a socket on the crankshaft pulley or using the fan belt. With a thumb over the rear cylinder plug hole ( or fit a compression gauge temporarily if you have one ) feel for compression. When you feel the compression this is No 4 on compression stroke so when the crankshaft is near to TDC there should be a spark on 4. Turn the crankshaft until the timing mark TDC on the pulley is opposite or just before the pointer adjacent on the engine block.
3) Remove the distributor cap. The rotor arm should face No 4 spark plug segment in the cap. If it isn't unplug the lead that is and swap for Number 4.
4) The rotor turns CCW. Firing order is 1-3-4-2 so when the rotor arm turns another 1/4 turn CCW it will face No2 spark plug Swap the leads so that Number 2 is next. Repeat for 1 and 3.
5) Refit the plugs and leads.
 
:wink: Hi, Pat180269, I think Kees57 is asking where it should be set rather than where it actually is.

Kees57 the position is set by the dist drive gear below the dist, like so -

Colin
 

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  • 2000 Dist drive set011.jpg
    2000 Dist drive set011.jpg
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I have found the settings by remove the cilinder head cover and look for the valves what has compression.

that I have used and count CCW for the rest.

It looks that the rotor is between two cablepoints when the points do fire, but it runs oke.

it does now oke see movie. But how much oilpressure is normal? and do this rise when make more rpm,s?
here it stays so on 30 a 40 LB do not change with higher rpm,s.

http://youtu.be/WdJp5LluT4A?list=UUFM73 ... Q8ytUtyt_Q

regards
 
Normal oil pressure on a 2200tc is 50-55psi just slightly right of centre dial. That looks low. Could be main bearings or big ends which can be replaced by removing the sump. Could also be a defective sender or gauge. Might be worth removing the relief valve and stretching the spring to see if the pressure comes up.
 
pat180269 said:
Normal oil pressure on a 2200tc is 50-55psi just slightly right of centre dial. That looks low. Could be main bearings or big ends which can be replaced by removing the sump. Could also be a defective sender or gauge. Might be worth removing the relief valve and stretching the spring to see if the pressure comes up.
Click to expand...

Is this cold or warm? I have also a oil pressure lamp who do go off when running, if I give gas the oilpressure stays the same, this is also weird, normaal it has to rise, even when idle has very low rpm say less then 500 it stays the same, I do think I also hear bearings, engine fibrates also when give more rpm,s.

I did also notice that the timing chain is musical, a high tone, very irritating but it get away when higher rpm, I have not a rattle coming from there, maybe here is a course of the oil problem, I go test the engine tomorrow...

Are this bearings standart or do I need machine the krank etc.

A other engine is not so expensive.

regards.

kees
 
On my car it is this pressure regardless of temperature. The pressure relief valve prevents the oil pressure building up further. I don't know the history or mileage of your car. Usually bearing wear shows itself on this engine at first as a flickering oil light after a fast run. You could remove the sump and inspect a big end and main bearing. Unless the bearings are really bad and have damaged the crank, you can probably get away without a crank grind. However standard sized bearings are quite expensive.
 
I would take the car for a drive and load up the engine in a high gear listen for bearing knock. The oil pressure sender and gauge can give strange readings. You don't have the oil light on. Take the car out on a drive amd see if the oil light flickers or comes on. I had strange oil pressure readings with no oil light and it was the oil pressure sender. They can leak on the crimped joint. If you can get hold of another oil pressure gauge ( from another car say ) and sender to indepedently verify then that would be good.
 
You can also remove the oil pressure relief valve to clean. Its behind a large hex nut near the oil filter. There is a chance it is not allowing the oil pressure to build up sufficiently.
 
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