p6 3500 auto 1974 distributor issues?

classicalgreen

classicalgreen

Active Member
swapping my dizzy for a new powerspark electronic and coil unit. failed to take pics before starting. coil connection(s) seem all wrong .get no spark when cranking. checking handbook and powerspark web page faqs seem to indicate only 2 wires needed . one to + on coil and from coil to neg earth .. powerspark web page wasn't straight forward as it mention a live feed to coil form ignition and a 'black' lead to earth.
have several leads black /white striped etc .
has anybody an image of standard coil and wires ? wiring diagram for idiots .. want to get coil firing at a plug to start with before worrying about rev counter etc .
hard to decipher colours on loom /connections as 40 years old have faded etc . given up as too cold to work on it at moment ( snow outside) not getting anywhere.
 
Not sure if the V8 has a ballasted coil or not, but if it has then the positive coil terminal will have two wires in place (or one if it hasn't). Leave these in place and connect the red wire from the powerspark to the same terminal. Remove the existing connection from the negative terminal (the other end goes to the old contact breaker) and connect the black lead from the powerspark in its place. I'm not certain whether the powerspark will work with a ballasted coil, really you need to bypass the ballast and use a 12 volt coil.
 
Hi,

On later Series 2 models, the tacho changed from the RVI (used up to chassis suffix letter D) to the RVC type used from chassis suffix E. The wiring between the coil -ve and the tacho/distributor is different between the two.

This is the original setup for RVI: 22 = Distributor, 37 = Tacho, 44 = Coil, 45 = Ballast Wire
Cable Colours: WY = White/Yellow, WS = White/Slate, WB = White/Black


But, provided they've not been messed with, for both RVI and RVC there will be two White/Yellow tracer cables to the +ve coil terminal - one from the ignition switch via the fusebox and ballast wire, and one from the starter motor.

For the Powerspark distributor, both of these need to be disconnected and replaced with a new 12V non-ballast feed from the ignition switch (or the unfused side of Fuse 19-20 as original). The Red cable from the Powerspark module also connects to the coil +ve terminal.

Have you put this new feed in to start with?
 
yes any pics will assist. have numerous wires now hanging adrift. its a series 2 1974 3500 auto E chassis. so rev counter and inhibitor wires will come into play. I can wire a plug but not an electrician. still no rush to complete as no coolant in engine yet and rear brakes will have to be stripped off to try and sort handbrake ( rubbish efficiency level)
might be nice to get more than the standard 300 miles a year it been doing .( multiple issues ) though must admit it's longest run under my ownership was approx 70 miles . with two vehicles so we had a 3 car caravan setup. land rover defender carrying tools. ramps. jacks. tow bars . etc ( yes cannot tow an auto but was going to remove propshaft first!)
so after much emptying of wallet and hours spend tinkering , spare parts etc .. there's a bit of light at end of tunnel. well if we can get engine running lol . many thanes responses thus far.
 
finally sorted. had an Email from powerspark . showing clearly red =+ and white = - on coil. add one wire from ignition live feed (+) and rotate dizzy. sparking well. the reason I was having ' no spark or irregular' was finally found to be a broken HT lead from coil to dizzy. ( now replaced with new) so after much head scratching and a few heated thoughts all is well in progress to get a few miles on car this year. so a silly thing to miss but did not check HT lead as appeared in v good condition and all other leads had been replaced ..lesson learned . so new plugs new HT leads AND coil HT etc all we nee down is warm weather and a few weeks or get brakes sorted at rear ( groan) . then MOT time .on that point I ought to say I will always get an MOT even if EU says we don't need one . though car is never on road unless I am certain it is safe (brakes steering suspension .corrosion etc) its far beet or peace of mind to have an expert ..recheck car all over. plus it will I think keep insurance companies happy. Only slight point I think may be relevant is mileage ? my car covering around 150 miles a year. seems a bit top heavy rechecking thinsg that don't need full check such as steering joints but on balance safer is best despite inconvenience and cost. hmm maybe they ought to have an interim test? e.g. car less than 1500 miles since last test ? but not more than 2 years? ( allowing for corrosion )
 
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