P6 buying advice please

J

Joe Wright

New Member
Hello everyone,
I'm looking to buy a P6. My preference is a Series 1 2000 TC. Looking around there appears to be more Sc cars available that look in really good condition. Would anyone be able to give me some guidance on how difficult and roughly how much it would cost to take an SC up to TC spec? If I can find a really good SC I might just go down that route.
Thanks in advance.
All the best
Joe
 
I have a ‘64 2000 (made before TCs or V8s we’re available). I’ve fully rebuilt it over 18 years to standard spec & it’s quite a flier!

I also owned a TC (‘72 with the slightly smaller carbs admittedly) but it wasn’t noticeably quicker than the ‘64.
 
Phil Robson said:
I have a ‘64 2000 (made before TCs or V8s we’re available). I’ve fully rebuilt it over 18 years to standard spec & it’s quite a flier!

I also owned a TC (‘72 with the slightly smaller carbs admittedly) but it wasn’t noticeably quicker than the ‘64.
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Okay. Thankyou for that.
I'll just look for the best i can find regardless of the engine then.
Thanks again
Joe
 
I have a '65 SC and a '68 TC. Although the SC moves down the road well, I find that at highway speeds, the TC pulls up the hills without slowing down while the SC can struggle.
I actually found that to be an advantage in the winter on really icy roads going up those same hills. The TC might begin to loose traction (if I was not careful) and spin where the SC just kept on going.
 
If you are making a non-original car anyway, go for an S1 with a 2200TC, it's much smoother. If not fit the smaller carbs anyway.

I'd love to try a TC head with throttle bodies.
 
Good morning. I'm looking at a Series 1 which doesn't hold a charge, needs a boot carpet and the passenger door doesn't open from the inside. I'm guessing alternator/battery and a carpet is easy to source but does anyone have any idea about the door? Common, easy fix or an expensive problem?
Thanks in advance
Joe
 
Hi, The door handle inner pivot point may just need adjusting forward a little, also check the bar hasn't come disconnected from the lock. If not replace the lock mechanism after checking for excessive wear, unusual on a rear door although someone may have swapped the front and rear over.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, The door handle inner pivot point may just need adjusting forward a little, also check the bar hasn't come disconnected from the lock. If not replace the lock mechanism after checking for excessive wear, unusual on a rear door although someone may have swapped the front and rear over.

Colin
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Thankyou. Its the front passenger door that won't open so hopefully not a major job but one my wife will be annoyed about and bearing in mind she is already annoyed about me getting a classic again i need to make sure its working alright.
 
@Joe Wright Are we certain that wasn't an intentional modification? Hours of pleasant motoring without driving suggestions and other 'helpful advice' from the front passenger seat! Sorry, only mucking about ;)
 
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