P6B S Project Car

jp928

Well-Known Member
Shutting the drivers shin bin is difficult - not obvious whats causing it. Anybody have a pic of what the bulkhead should look like there please?

Fixed - a little relocation of the speedo cable required.
 
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jp928

Well-Known Member
My injection loom has damaged insulation on all 3 wires into the TPS, so I want to pull the pins, fit some shrink wrap . I have the correct (I believe?) tubular tool to push the barbs in to release the female pins, but cannot get them to move at all. I think I can feel the barbs when I push the tube in, then the tool seems to bottom, pin wont come out. Tried turning the tool, pushing the pin inwards from the back then gently inserting tool, no good.
Is there a trick to removing these please?
thanks
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Back to the carbs.... Starts OK, runs a bit uneven, sort of like a misfire, but not quite like a bad plug or lead. Managed a couple of runs around the block, but with some burps coccasionally. Plugs were sooty, but not fouled, probably due to idling as I manoeuvre into the garage. Cleaned them. Back to basics - reset the jets per the book. Found it quite hard to detect when the jet hit the vertical piece beside the needle, even with very good lighting in there. Finally chose a spot just back from where I could detect the jet moving down a tiny bit, then 2.5 turns in. Starts, but runs a bit uneven, hopefully due to being cold- cant run it much before the smoke detector goes off, and its wet outside today. With better weather will get it out and run it up to temp and see hoe it feels.
Another odd observation - while running yesterday I could see 8-10mm of fuel in the filter, but when I checked after shutdown the filter was full...???
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Finally got back to carbs. Runs best with an extra 1/4 turn rich. Drives OK, but Innovate says its still lean. Will try a bit more richness. There was a page here with a process for setting HIF6 mixture, but cant find it now?? Adjusted fast idle up some - a bit too far, need to back it off a bit. Where was that bent 1/4 spanner again? Might have to make one - easier than taking the elbows off each time.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
There are 2 holes in the front slam panel on each side - are these functional - designed to allow air through to the engine, or ??? Strikes me they allow air to avoid going through the radiator, doing something useful for temperature. Down here in Oz the more air that goes through the rad the better.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Runs very well now with mixture screws in 2-7/8 turns from jet level. Starts well, but needs temp well up before I can close choke completely - might lift the idle a tiny bit. Good power - have done a few trips around the block without issue, and has run 30-40 mins idling , so I dont seem to have a pump problme anymore...
 

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
There are 2 holes in the front slam panel on each side - are these functional - designed to allow air through to the engine, or ??? Strikes me they allow air to avoid going through the radiator, doing something useful for temperature. Down here in Oz the more air that goes through the rad the better.
Hi JP,

Providing an increase in airflow to the radiator would certainly be one of the benefits, so would reducing the surface area of the steel required for that section. The holes also provide a pathway for the bonnet release cable but possibly most importantly they provide an increase in bending resistance by increasing the section's second moment of area. The cutouts have folded edges which also increase flexural rigidity.

Ron.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
With no pressing maintenance I am falling back to cleaning up the injection gear I have, finding some issues. Have new injectors, so pulled the manifold down, cleaned up the fuel rail, oiled the injector Orings, tried to reassemble. Very , very difficult. The bolt down arms for the fuel rail dont go anywhere near lining up on the bolt holes on the manifold, at least starting with the injectors in the manifold. In the end I dismantled the second intake set, for its fuel rail. With no injectors in place the fuel rail arms sat nicely over the bolt holes. Put the injectors in the manifold, problem again. Pulled the injectors, fitted and clipped them onto the rail first - better, but still a struggle to get the holes to line up. Managed to get the bolts in, but it wasnt fun. Am I missing something here?
Managed to get an SD1 sump, for the brace to the bellhousing, which I think is functional, given the extra weight of the iron case in an LT77.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
Yes, trumpet part removed. When I started with injectors pushed into the manifold It was VERY difficult to get the fuel rail to engage with the injector tops, so I fitted the injectors to the rail first.
 
I usually put a light smear of vaseline on each end of the injectors then they should push home ok. Don't get me wrong, they still need a fair amount of effort. I fit the injectors to the rail, fit the retaining clips and then fit the whole lot to the manifold one side at a time. New o-rings help, which from a quick Google I think are Landrover part number rtc5679.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
CURRent plan for LT77 mounting, based on not wanting to make ireversible hacks on the body. USe THE RUBBER BOBBINS in the 2 fwd vertical holes in the rear housing (refer the conversion doco) - these holes line up better with the std manual box mounts in terms of length from bell housing. Mount a flat steel plate on the bobbins such that it matches the layout of the std mount holes, and once the output flanges is at the correct height, make up spacers to reach the body mounts. Some of the other mounts I have seen look similar to this approach. The plate will be about 130x240mm, spacers front-rear will be different lengths.
Comments?
 
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