P6B S Project Car

jp928 said:
Comments please?
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Mine looks like this - so just from the photos which can be a little misleading, I would say that your box is a little high. or it could be that mine is low, or the photos are not easy to see. What is the angle of the rear flange now?

I know you have probably done this, but is the car sitting flat? The inner sills should be at 0°. How is the box suspended? If it's on a jack the angle will change when you hang it on the car because of the weight.

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So all i have done is weld a 3mm plate over the large hole and chopped an amount off each end. I have offered the mount up to the car and a small bit of cutting see's it fit the existing mounting points on the car. I may use to heavy angle iron on each end but all this is subject to me getting the gearbox onto the car to see what i need to do. That unfortunately a few weeks away as it's below zero outside.

Must say that Quattro's mount does look good.
 
Quattro, based on measurements of the original cast mount on the 4 speed, I made the flange centre line ~ 70mm above the original rear mount plate. Currently the LT77 centre is at least 25mm below that, and the remote wont go much higher. The flanges are very close to parallel, and the throttle counter shaft is pointing uphill, where it was close to level before.
Ampwhu - If you have left the original mount plates in place, unless you have the engine lower than I could get mine safely (reserve tap), I think you are going to have trouble getting the box up into place.
 
The picture of the throttle shaft looks like it's going downhill from the engine to the bulkhead, as if the back of the engine needs to be dropped a bit. When you say the flanges are close to parallel, do you mean they are both at 5° or they're at 90° to the floor?
 
The car does not need to be level to set up the driveline. When you put your inclinometer on the flanges, provided they lean the same way, by the same amount, you are ok.
 
With the throttle shaft slightly uphill (~ 1d relative to the rocker cover) the drive flanges are within 1d of parallel,so I dont want to lower the box much. I zeroed my angle gauge on the floor and then read the angles of the flanges -diff 87d (down arrow on gauge), box 94d (up arrow). The top of the remote is ~1/2-5/8" below the tunnel roof.
Ampwhu - the TR7 metal mount is as rear as rocking horse waste here, so its not an option for me, although it looks like thats what Penguin used, with the rubber mount.
 
Would you believe there is a speedo cable shop < 1km from home, who say they can make me a cable with P6 end at top, SD1 flange at other end, a bit longer, A$85. Cheap as!
 
jp928 said:
Quattro, based on measurements of the original cast mount on the 4 speed, I made the flange centre line ~ 70mm above the original rear mount plate. Currently the LT77 centre is at least 25mm below that, and the remote wont go much higher. The flanges are very close to parallel, and the throttle counter shaft is pointing uphill, where it was close to level before.
Ampwhu - If you have left the original mount plates in place, unless you have the engine lower than I could get mine safely (reserve tap), I think you are going to have trouble getting the box up into place.
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you could be right. i have this joy to come
 
Next issue. Got my lovely new speedo cable...having left the original rear mounting plate (near side) in place, with its supporting near vertical rib, I could not see a way to get the speedo cable fitted . Brief rethink. The old plate and its rib will have to go to get thespeedo cable fitted,so then I will have to look into using the SD1 bracket and the rubber bobbins....but which way - vertical bobbins, or angled?
 
Having a very bad time trying to get the speedo cable fitted. might have to try the routing proposed in the notes. In working on the tunnel side under the old front mount a crack has appeared - at first I thought it was under the welding of the plate, but its right through the side wall of the tunnel.
 
I think we could all benefit from some pictures. I know it means removing the gearbox but I think you need to.
 
Very small chance of it coming out again, after all the problems getting it in. Sorry. Might even consider doing without a speedo - not compulsory here for cars built before early 80s.

Done. See below. Not pretty,but works. Cable has same protective fuel hose over it through the hole. Hole might be better a bit higher and right, but that steel is terrible stuff work on - my hole saw wouldnt look at it, so I had to do the multiple small holes thing and break it out. The hole is between the ribs of the old front support plate, so any further back and you would be trying to cut the rear rib as well. I had the cable made 10" longer than stock, so it should reach, but at the moment thats the least of my worries. the crack is visible below the hole, where some black stuff has fallen off.
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1st thing I would do is remove the remaining black stuff to see how long the crack is. If the other end (end you cant see) starts from a whole or previous opening, I would not worry. The end of the crack that you can see, I would drill one small hole right at the end. That would stop the crack going any further.

I'd then cover it with filler. And then paint. The reason why I would do that is if you went down the route of welding it, your going to know what pain is. Let's face it, that's not an option
 
Yes, plan to drill holes at ends stop propagation. at worst might bolt a plate over it. Very good book on such things is 'Structures, or why things dont fall down', JE Gordon.
 
More progress. Tp spread the load I drilled holes in the bracket as far apart as possible. On one side I used the outer edges of the bracket, on the other, due to differences in the tunnel shape, closer to the bend.
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Bolts on the nearside, inside.
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Offside bolts were a pain as the PO had fitted large sheets of underfelt on the floor and up the tunnel sides - had to cut an access slit to find the holes drilled from below. The bobbins have some spacing washers on top. As I unwound the supporting jack the box came down ~1/8". The throttle counter shaft is a little closer to horizontal now.
Edit - since this last pic I have added a 1"x1/8" reinforcing strap under these bolts.
 
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This is the remote bottom cover that came with the TR7 box - looks like it was run with loose bolts on the uj, or a very brokken UJ.
Anybody know if there is a down side to removing the reverse baulk plate adjuster bolts? The plate sets the 1st-2nd selector line up, which seems good on the box in the car now. On the remote on the box the movable plate seems to be hard up against the support plate, which is the same as the spare remote, where the adjuster bolts are missing completely.
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The SD1 book says to adjust the bolts so the baulk plate is just clear of the support plate, than adjust in/out to give a force to displace the plate of 29 +-2 lbf to reach the reverse plane.
I tried fitting bolts to the spare remote, and by just getting the baulk plate off the support plate, it became MUCH harder to displace the plate, but with bolts backed right out I could manage it. So it seems to me they could be removed without issue...?
 
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That sort of damage is normally down to two things, usually together. The bolts holding the remote to the box being loose, or the rubbers being worn, AND driving around with your hand on the gearstick.

If you're meaning the two bolts which the springs sit on to adjust the gearstick bias, set them to 3rd/4th
 
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