P6B S Project Car

I just checked it worked by putting the gearstick in, checking resistance into reverse by the feel of it, checking the bias to 3rd/4th and checking that reverse switched the reversing lights on, and everything was smooth.
 
More progress...getting close now. propshaft fitted, exhaust nearly up. With the exhaust pipe cross bar falling over the 2 tapped holes in the box rear cover, drilled holes for M8 bolts, which I dont have long enough yet. It looks like I will need spacers about 1" high - does this seem normal, OK? I have seen somebody else's work here, but of course cant find it now.
 
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Spacers - used a couple of old 3/8 drive sockets that I havent used for years, as they were the right length. Much easier than cutting some hex bar and drilling. Despite having sat for months, the battery started it fine. No sounds of anything touching the bodywork so far. New muffler support rubbers on first muffler. Due to my paranoia about the very heavy clutch last time I did this conversion, I fitted a new 5/8" clutch master (see other thread on the fun this was!) ,and I can get gears! Clutch might need a little more bleeding -first part of pedal travel is soft, but its an acceptable weight. Taking a break now, and after tidying up tomorrow morning might even lower it and drive it! Then need to couple the speedo cable to the head, and tidy up the interior.....
Pretty happy with the look of the rear mount, tidier than I had anticipated. Throttle counter shaft looks nicely level, as it was before I started.
 
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Have done a short run around some local roads. No noises of things hitting bodywork - good! All gears fine, change from 2->3 and 4->5 smooth and easy, also very good. Clucth does need a bit more bleeding, but its a good weight. Bit noisy without the lever grommet or the tunnel properly covered. exhaust is smoking some as it burns off where I handled it with greasy hands. Idle has changed downwards, hopefully due to having played with the countershaft coupling? no signs of vibration up to 80kph. At last I have good reliable selection of gears, and 1st and 2nd are quiet!
now for the tidy up.

Idle -adjusted up a touch, let it get to full temp, down a touch, nice and stable around 750-800, even better than before.
 
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After a half hour's running, no sign of a leak from the new rear main seal, which I installed with a home made tool. Sealing up the hole for the speedo cable , vacuuming debris from the pass footwell - having ducted vacuum in the house, extending to the garage is very handy!
When I get to try to fit the SD1 sump to the P6, is the baffle going to be a problem fitting around the oil pump pickup? If I use a neoprene gasket, should I use any sealant on it ?
VD7f30V.jpg
 
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Well done that man! Please now follow the instructions in my earlier post, no. 493.
Why do you want to change engine sumps?
 
Well, I reckon they would not have braced the sump to the bellhousing without a reason - possibly the extra weight of the LT ?
 
Some forward progress...pass side carpets all back in place and tidy. old speedo cable removed, new one connected, no problems with reach.
And backwards...petrol leak at the reserve tap! It has sat still for 36 hrs since I drove it, good job I didnt start it again. After I worked on the tap while the box was out I put more than a reserve worth of fuel in the tank and it sat like that for some weeks without loosing a drop. The original hose that went over the bellhousing had been damaged by a previous gearbox removal, so I removed it and replaced it with some 5/16 fuel hose clipped to the outlet fitting, and it seemed to be OK for weeks. Oh well, back to the salt mine.
 
Update. Unsure exactly where the leak is. Have emptied the tank ...again. Up in the air...again. unbolted the clutch slave, moved it aside, and dropped the starter. I can get a spanner on the outlet pipe nut, so tightened that as much as I could. Can also just get a 7mm socket on the clip screw (clamping the rubber hose on the outlet) - tightened that up somewhat. Letting it sit overnight with ~8L in the tank, and the reserve contol on reserve. Planning to gradually add fuel ~4L at a time and watch for leaks.
 
Up to ~22L in the tank now, no leaks so far. While under there, I tend to look at and check whatever I can get my hands on - the 2 rearmost exhaust manifold bolts were loose. All those I can readily reach on top are tight. These 2 would be the worst to get at from on top, so its not too surprising.
 
Over a half tank now, still no leaks. I spent some time trying to get a 7mm socket on the clip screw from underneath, then found access much easier from above once I removed the air cleaner. Going to let it sit for 24hrs or more, just to be sure.
Also fitted my homemade lower bellhousing cover while I was under there - bit of fettling to get bolts started in all holes, but it will do the job.
 
Lots of small panel fixing screws , as well as hose clips are 7mm in the metric world. Porsche 928 - alloy front under tray keeping dirt off the front of the engine and cam belt run has 7 such screws. Also important to stop air from behind the radiator being sucked back around the front.
I favour this type of clip for small hoses, as the clamping is more even than jubilee style units......as long as you do them up properly!
12Pack 14-16mm Stainless Steel Mini Fuel Injection Hose Clamps Adjustable Pipe | eBay
 
Nearly there - ~60L back in the tank,no leaks so far. Letting it sit for a day before finishing up. That was a really close call when I think about it...
 
Got it all assembled now, no leaks. New noise when engine runs, I think due to my home made bellhousing cover, which is flat. I checked the original 4 speed bottom cover, which is dished away from the flywheel, and even it has a scrapemark on it. Now looking for an SD1 cover - anybody know of one spare please?
 
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jp928 said:
Got it all assembled now, no leaks. New noise when engine runs, I think due to my home made bellhousing cover, which is flat. I checked the original 4 speed bottom cover, which is dished away from the flywheel, and even it has a scrapemark on it. Now looking for an SD1 cover - anybody know of one spare please?
Click to expand...

I've been looking for one for months with no luck. Rimmers sell them new for £30 but have been out of stock for months as well. I currently have modified the 4 speed one to fit but i'm not entirely happy with it so will have to wait until rimmers have some.
 
Well, I took to the original cover...its very hard to hold firmly when cutting bits off it! When I tried to fit it back on the bellhousing the small (1/8"?) lip at the top would not clear the rear edge of the sump, so I cut that off as well, with some difficulty. A little untidy, with a gap in coverage outside the slave cylinder - have an idea how to fix that - but its 99% covered,so pretty happy with that.
 
Another run up to temp - no problems, leaks etc. Short test drive,all OK, apart from getting used to a new clutch , pressure is good now that its fully bled. Got lucky with the clutch last year - ordered an economic unit on ebay, paid....received an email saying out of stock, will you accept a more expensive Exedy at the same price? Will I ever! Now to put the tunnel finisher back on. Oh, and despite doing lots of research on the speedo drive gear and being told that the red 20 tooth gear is correct for the 3.08 diff, and eventually getting one....the speedo shows around 60-70% of what the GPS says my speed is. Very steady reading, but very low. Bugger. Problem for another day, maybe when I need to get underneath for something else.
Anybody know anything about different driving gears on the output shaft, aside from the small speedo drive gear? Looks to me like these cant be changed without pulling the rear cover, as the gear is behind the rear bearing.
 
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