P6B S Project Car

[jp928]

Got all the brake parts out, ready reassemble. Both ends of the master to booster pipe needed their tube nuts filed to enable them to fit back into their threads. The short pipe from the reservoir to the master was stuck on its tube nut, and tried to twist the hose part as I undid it, so I had to loosen the hose clamp to be able to unscrew it. Also needed some filing on the flared part of that tube nut.

 

[jp928]

A few steps forward, another back. My assumption that my large pressure bleeder adapter (fits MX5) would fit the reservoir was wrong. Close but no banana. Little chance that one exists, I will have to go for a vacuum bleeder, which are fortunately cheap and plentiful, and dont need any specific parts.

 

[mikecoombs]

Actually you may find that all you need to bleed is the driver side wheel if you didn't drain the system and only worked on the booster and master end of things...

 

[jp928]

oooohhhh that sounds really good! I hope that works, thanks. I looked at the bleeder at the rear, and dont like the look of that at all!

 

[sdibbers]

oooohhhh that sounds really good! I hope that works, thanks. I looked at the bleeder at the rear, and dont like the look of that at all!

In the past I’ve dropped the diff slightly for better access to the rear bleeder. Couple of hints when bleeding the P6:

(1) Get hold of self bleeding nipples. They have a spring loaded plunger to act as a non return valve built in. Means no need for a second person with a spanner under the car, plus less chance of air going back into the system.

(2) The Rover workshop manual advice on pedal action works really well (go figure right?!?). Start with a full depression of the brake pedal, then return only half way up, all the way down again and half way up three times. Then release. Works every time for me on my car with two high mounted remote servos (they’re a right bugger to bleed).

It’s not too bad using the above method.

 

[jp928]

Thanks, will certainly try that approach. I thought about lowering the diff, but with the car up on quickjacks I dont have a floor jack that will reach the diff. The self bleeding are now on the list!

 

[sdibbers]

This is interesting. Maybe an alternative option? Speedometer Cables USA - Gear Box Adapters

 

[jp928]

I think this last response should be in the thread on speedo readings and LT77 gearbox?

 

[sdibbers]

I think this last response should be in the thread on speedo readings and LT77 gearbox?

Duh! Yep.

 

[jp928]

Well, I think the brake update is done finally. Without the pressure bleeder (US$77+p&P for a universal pressure adapter) I got a suction bleeder unit. got it fitted OK, tested, but it seemed to me that it waas sucking air in past the bleeder threads - very steady stream of bubbles, and only produced a low soft pedal. With the speed bleeders fitted (see note elsehwere on the need for the long type) managed a much better pedal, but still soft. These bleeders has some sort of coating on the threads which makes them a bit difficult to get started, but it probably stops air leaking past the threads. Finally dragged another household member in so I could take a pop out of the m/cyl connection, then the booster input and the booster output. Finally a good firm pedal. A small pop out of each front wheel, and its now good enough to road test.
Phew!
PS I have seen new bolts made for car manufacture with a coating on the threads - its tiny drops of epoxy encapsulated in gelatine to prevent the bolts loosening and rattling - eg used in interior structures, where rattles really annoy drivers.

 

[jp928]

Done! Successful road test, pedal feels same as before as best I can tell. Normal service has resumed.

 

[jp928]

After another short run I decided to look into the cause of extended cranking at cold starts. Dug out the notes I have on installation of a Stealth electronic 'points' - test if a ballast is in place or not. Isolated dizzy connection at coil, ignition on, 12.6V at coil +ve; earth the neg side of coil - 7.8V. Problem - coil is a 3 Ohm Lucas DLB101. As well as affecting cold starts, this might explain a not very stable idle. New coil to be ordered.

 

[kees66]

That is a quite nice car, the old owner has did good work to prevent
rust and other problems by let it service by garage on time.

 

[jp928]

Thanks Kees, it is in pretty nice condition. I think its had a panel off repaint at some point. Best part is the interior.

 

[jp928]

Looking at gearlever knob again...genuine SD1, wont screw onto the stick. Thread on stick is 5/16 UNC. Went down to hardware store where they have 1m lengths of threaded rods in multiple sizes. Guess what screws into the knob - M10x1.5! Now to see if I can make an adapter - probably start with an M10x1.5 bolt, drill and tap it 5/16 UNC, and see if there is enough meat left to stay in one piece.

 

[quattro]

Hmmm 7/16" is 7.94mm or thereabouts, ever so slightly more than 1mm each side.

I doubt that's going to work somehow, but best of luck with it.

Mine still has the SD1 stick

 

[jp928]

I realize its going to be close, but costs very little to try. The 7/16 UNC looks factory cut, so its a bit mystifying.

 

[kees66]

Thanks Kees, it is in pretty nice condition. I think its had a panel off repaint at some point. Best part is the interior.

The version I have, an 3500S has also no rotten stage of rust, it has I do call it flying rust, and no, it do not fly away
that was awesome if that happens. I have derust it and panit with rust blocking paint.

Th back and under the car, carosserie is perfect protected, but the axle, box calipers are rusted, here it is
more severe, but not rotten, the stuf is to strong for that, but calipers can be already destroyed and need replacement
but the front calipers I have already done.

I have order parts by wins, and mail them because I can not pay, she have only creditcard pay option, not paypal
and there is 262 pounds in basket. who will cause import dutys for shure because it is above 150 euros, maybe do
send in two packages. Wins has a lot of parts for different cars, not only rover.

succes with your rover, it is very cute and healthy car.

 

[jp928]

Down here in OZ in theory any package over A$1000 should get duty and tax added, but so far its never happened to me. There were some parts under mine where there was some surface rust, so I applied an anti-rust chemical, then rust proof paint. Rust is not usually a big problem down here - snow only in small areas of the mountains, no salting there. Probably more rust in the humid tropics up north. I also have the external spare kit, but dont plan to use it.

 

[kees66]

WE have a North Sea who is quite salty, cars close to that area do rust easy, we have snow, but most
we have frozen rain of wet snow, winters here are quiet mild the last years. But we do salting
here. However it is quite possible to protect the cars sp rust do have no change.

Oke I have a question, the books I have for 3500 aut and 3500S are compleet different cars, I have
found a motor stability rod and one bracked but these on the engine itself has not, the car also have
never one installed, or it is removed.

The rubber I do also put pic of, I do not now where it is from, maybe the wheel flap, or the flap
for protecting the wiper motor.

because the books do also let seen that the wiper motor bracked has just two supports, I have tree

I thought that the books will be clear but no, there seems to be are a lot different cars.

thanks.