P6B S Project Car

@kees66 The stabiliser rod also has a bracket attached to it to hold the windscreen washer fluid bottle, which goes vertically in the gap behind the headlight bowls. The rubber flap is indeed to protect the windscreen wiper motor from water splashed up to the top of the inner wheel arch. It is riveted in place, I seem to recall.
 
All the S cars I have seen (RHD) have had the engine steady rod, but I have never seen the flap for the wiper motor.
 
jp928 said:
Can you give me some dimensions of the flap please? Have NEVER seen one.
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I'll try to measure it but I'm nowhere near my car until Friday next.

This is what they look like

www.ebay.co.uk

Rover P6B 3500V8 New Protection Flad For Wiper Motor Part Number 370602 | eBay

This high-quality protection flat for the wiper motor is a must-have for any Rover P6B 3500V8 owner. It is designed to fit perfectly and provide superior protection for your vehicle's wiper system. With its precise fit and excellent quality, this protection flat is an essential component for any...
www.ebay.co.uk
 
Thanks. Should be enough to make something up. Now that I look in the area properly I can see the remains of the rubber - last inch with rivets. Bit messy to do properly without removing lots of stuff. Might wait until I have to do something else there.
 
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mrtask said:
@kees66 The stabiliser rod also has a bracket attached to it to hold the windscreen washer fluid bottle, which goes vertically in the gap behind the headlight bowls. The rubber flap is indeed to protect the windscreen wiper motor from water splashed up to the top of the inner wheel arch. It is riveted in place, I seem to recall.
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Thanks man, unfortunately I do mis the bracket fort the stabilization rod on the motor side, I have search in the parts I have with the car and found none, so I need to find one, here in NL is a guy who has lots of parts, mucho rovers are disaasembled because of rust.

I have repaired the wiper water pump, it was not run well and new hoses and gasket in it.
 

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Have done the heater, disassemble the blower and regrease bearings and clean the lamels for the brushes
motor did drawn to much current, now it is fine and blowing away.
 

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I do think the 2 square holes, (arrows on pic) are not original. Maybe it is because of airco.
 

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quattro said:
Are they where the heater controls come through?

View attachment 25489
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Ohhh yes, how stupid I am today, happenly only today.
This you get when you disassemble the car without pictures,, and let it for a year, so I forgot
where all was, exscept the most parts do tell you where it was originally.

Have ordered the parts, 281 pounds total, by Wins, has a lot, not that expensive.

Thanks for the tips.
 
Then using roofing with gleu layer do better job, but do burn, anti fibration
plates also work, and gleu itself.
 
jp928 said:
Thanks. Should be enough to make something up. Now that I look in the area properly I can see the remains of the rubber - last inch with rivets. Bit messy to do properly without removing lots of stuff. Might wait until I have to do something else there.
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I have tried to measure it, but it's right down out of the way so I can't get in there.

IMG_3048.JPG
 
I have drawn the flap in sketchup.

the flap is 4 mm thick and you need washers between the rivets and the flap itself..

Flap can be rubber or something like flat roof materials.
 

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The rubber flaps are quite stiff and perform one task which is very important. As mentioned above when driving through deepish water the flap stops water flooding the cavity the wipermotor sits in. Thus preventing the motor from filling with water and stopping which it will do if you remove the flap and drive through water. Fixing it (emptying motor case) is simple but not something you want to do when on the road in the rain. Try to cover as much hole as you can, particularly at the rear end, but keep it away from the suspension rods so they don't foul.
 
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Well, fitting a correct coil really helps - starts quicker, and will tolerate choke pushed mostly in, and still run smoothly than it did before. Very mu8ch pleased I finally found that problem! Problem was getting one - first place I ordered from took too long to arrive, Auspost eventually admitted they lost it; supplier said they would replace it, then they couldnt get an eta from their supplier, did I want a refund? You bet! Second order got cancelled by supplier as they couldnt get one. Local shop said dont have one, but when I pressed their boss he was able to find a correct type, and now we are golden, as some say.
 
Having done an oil analysis on another car once I decided to do one on the Rover if only to set a benchmark. The only anomaly is Lead at 89 , assumed to be parts per million (ppm). Most likely from bearings. Everything else is good - water, fuel etc. It has either 216k or 316k kms. It behaves like a tired engine, idles a little oddly at ~800rpm, no tappet noise audible inside, pulls quite well - I rarely go past 3k through the gears, as there is no need in normal driving....for me. Low Silicon says the air filters are doing their job, no excess silicon sealer inside. Oil pressure mostly steady at >35psi cruising, >15 idling, although gauge does drop to 0 occasionally without the warning light coming on, so I put that down to a clogged sender. Not using appreciable oil. Generally no point in rebuilding yet, although I have a 3.9 block and heads in hand.
 

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