Radiator removal

machman767

machman767

Active Member
Hi, all, I'm trying to get my radiator off prior to exchanging it at Wadhams next week, managed to disconnect everything except the pipes for the transmission cooler, any helpful tips, advice?
Cheers,

Mick
 
I normally disconnect the rubber pipes where they connect to the metal pipes,
found it easier myself then remove them from rad once removed.
Just a note but before you fit the new rad back in flush out the cooler with clean TQF fluid just in case there is debris present and check condition of the rubber pipes.
If they are perished you can buy the correct oil pipe which you can cut to length from a company called Think Automotive in isleworth Middlesex.
Clive.
 
What´s the pressure inside these hoses normally ?
My two short hoses are perished and I cut them off, when I removed the radiator. To get the correct hose (for ATF, max 175 degr-c etc) is not difficult, but the old hoses were simply pushed onto the fitting, NO hose clamp.
Can I simply use hose clamps for them ?
 
Hi, There's not much pressure in the pipes, there's no real resistance to the flow of oil because it just returns to the gearbox oil pan. The fact the flexible pipes are just a push on fit to the barbed connectors is evidence of that. Having said all that the oil cooler pipe in the end tank is likely to be 40 or more years old, so I would suggest you get them to delete it and have a separate oil cooler rad, it's not unknown for them to leak and let water from the cooling system, which is probably under higher pressure, into the gearbox. The gearboxes do not respond well to that. It will also take the load off the cooling system.

Colin
 
Thanks, all, finally managed to get it off, decided it would be easier if I removed the bracket from beneath the radiator and so it was. Once everything was off I came across a foam type pad, does it live between rad and bracket?

Mick
 
Ok, so new rad on today, checked everything over, filled it up and started. Stat opened, topped up as per, all well. Until we switched off and water started dripping, difficult to see from where, but could be water pump (nooooo.....!!!). Doesn't seem to be any "grumbling" noise from pump, any ideas what it might be?

Mick
 
Hi Mick,

The water pump won't always make a worrying noise when leaking. It just depends upon what has failed or worn out. When cold and the engine off, place your fingers around and up under the water pump. There is a small hole is the casing that will allow coolant to leak out when something goes wrong. If it is wet, then you'll have your answer.

A bright light and a mirror can also be helpful when looking for hose leaks.

Ron.
 
So all is well, looked earlier and could see a tell tale mark near the left hand short hose that goes to top of water pump, replaced with new clips, topped up again and success. One thing, though, half filled the rad, started it up and before stat opened the water came out the top, almost like the belagio fountains, then dropped and filled up as per Harvey's wonderful instructions. Any ideas?

Mick
 
Is the small bleed hose from inlet manifold to top of rad clear and flowing?
This is a de gassing pipe which helps to remove air when thermostat is closed.
Clive.
 
Clive, I think perhaps not although it did with the old rad, the hose is clear, as is the pipe out of the tower. I'm guessing it's now got the mother of all air locks?!

Mick
 
That bleed pipe can resilt up at times so worth rechecking.
It's the first hose to get hot when running so if you can't see the water flowing inside the rad when cap is removed if it's hot it's normally working.
Clive.
 
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