Rear toe setting

I am having second thoughts on this, and it seems that if someone has the tube and elbows bolted tothether out of the car and on the bench, it is very easy to measure for squareness and adjust accordingly. So this is probably a proper long term solution without having to swap parts.

AFAIK it's parallel with no provision for adjustment if it isn't.

Probaly i wasn't clear enough, but when i am talking of adjustment, i am thinking of using force to bend the elbow(s) back into shape. I admit that this is just theory and it is quite possible that it could not be put easily into practice, but i would be tempted to have a go.
 
I have some spare elbows - rust free too - problem might be distance...
Not really, I have a good friend who ships to the UK every 6 weeks, based in FL.
So depending on price and how much to ship to FL I may be interested, if they are very good ones.

Please send a PM with your thoughts

Thanks Mark
 
Probaly i wasn't clear enough, but when i am talking of adjustment, i am thinking of using force to bend the elbow(s) back into shape. I admit that this is just theory and it is quite possible that it could not be put easily into practice, but i would be tempted to have a go.

Heating in the right spot and letting the material do the work as it shrinks and cools would be the way. I used to work for a guy who was brilliant at this. I have seen guys give solid axles toe in with this method too, gotta wonder how many they ruined before it came good though.
 
Couldn't you calculate the amount you need to change it by and have the face of the elbow or the tube end ground to that amount?
You mentioned that 2 washers solved it, so their thickness will give the amount you want in terms of the angle off the present "zero". Then, you need a switched on machinist with a big milling machine.
 
The material thickness would not be enough to allow that much removal of metal, the only way to do that would be to weld on a ring of additional material then grind that.
It would work for a small increase in rear track.
 
The rear track is defined from the driveshafts, so it doesn't going to change.
I am thinking that due to leverage, a tiny milling of the tube to elbow joint surfaces is enough to correct small angle variations at the wheel. However, calculting what is exactly required is not that simple.
 
Yup see your point.
Milling the tube/elbow joint is an option, if you used shims to arrive at a parallel situation at the wheel, then measured the shim pack to get the amount of metal removal required.
I have a surveyors level that sits on a tripod, to level it there are two wedged discs underneath it, you turn the discs to level the instrument regardless of the inclination of the mount.
So picture two such discs with long slotted holes for the bolts that hold the hub on, these could be rotated to adjust toe but retain camber.
Lordy my head hurts, I can hear the masses saying ' just buy another elbow ya tight git ' - Aha ! but where is the fun in that ?
 
As anyone any idea what the toe should be on the back , I cannot find any published data? The assumption above seems to be that it should be zero.
every car i can think of, or have ever done a rear toe check on has as standard about 2mm toe in on the rear
 
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