No problem at all, I'll use it myself in the future I'm sure as I keep making the same mistakes over. I realised today I haven't written anything about the turret, so that is below:
Lesson Ten - Getting the roof off and windscreens in and out. The roof is held on with lots of screws all around the edge. It is located in position by the rear lip. To remove you undo ALL the screws and there are some recessed in the front cross rail and up under the rear qtr panels. when you have them all out. you need to drill out the three rivets on the A pillar stainless finisher (use a rivet drill they have a shallower pitch and tend not to grab and spin the rivet. They are quite cheap but get two as they can get stuck and break). the finisher will then slide down and out. Note the top rivet goes through both the corner piece and the pillar piece. The Door seal will hold these in place if you are planning on removing the roof more than once. that done the front corner pieces are slid off the side moulding and front finisher at the same time using a see saw motion. The front finisher can then be removed from the rubber by lifting it up and back. The BC post mouldings are removed by drilling out the four rivets and sliding it off. It has a slight spring clamping so be careful of the paint. You DON'T need to remove the BC and D post or the gutter finishers to get the roof off, only the front three. The rear D post qtr panels have two inside set screws and three end-on chrome plated set screws in the door apeture. They come out by moving the front edge out to clear the screw plate then forward to remove the rear edge rom the windscreen finisher. They are really hard to come by so don't lose them! The corresponding inside panel has one or two screws at the bottom, it clips over the D post edge in a similar manner to the outside one but in reverse. You can test to see if all the screws are out by lifting the front corners. The whole roof should lift if it feels stuck you have either left a screw in, possibly way down the rear, or some idiot has stuck it on with silastic silicone....fortunately rover used copious quantities of body putty to seal the roof so heating it a little will help loosen the glue if that is the case. Normally, you should be able to break the mastic seal pretty easily. The roof slides out forward after lifting the front edge with a slight see saw to break the seal in the rear lip but that is a natural consequence of lifting the front. Note if the car has had any type of hit the arc of the rear roof lip and that of its mating window frame lip may be different causing a moon shaped gap. That will make it very difficult to get the rear window gutter finisher and rubber (and window) in. If you haven't/aren't taking the window out it will take forever to get the lip back in the slot it came out of. The two lips have to sit closely together along their entire length as the finisher sits tightly over both of them.
Lesson Ten.One - Before removing the gutter finisher, mark the front edge point somehow so it won't get painted out as it is critical to getting the corner piece clipped back into it on reassembly without bending or dinking them. To remove, there is a little lip on the lower side, place the end grain of a piece of wood against this and give it a tap with a hammer. This will unclip it with little damage. The BC post finisher really needs to be off or you will get stuck in the middle. Note these pieces need to be kept perfectly straight as bends will make it difficult to get back on and look bad when on.
Lesson ten.Two - Interior roof lining. If you are taking the front or rear window out do that first as you can then slide the lining through the nice big hole! The Headlining is locked in place by a built in clip at the centre rear and the two side strips. The front piece and A post internal finishers are just that and don't actually hold the lining in. Never the less they need to come out first, after the visors and Mirror. Note the visors screw directly into the corner sheetmetal so hold them up as you undo the screws so you don't pull the remaining screws through their holes. The later mirrors are a safety type, to get them off you first twist the stalk out of the base (it is spring loaded and designed to come out if you head hits it) making the screws visible in the base. The visors and mirror are what holds the front finisher in so do the mirror first...so the ends don't droop.
The side strips have Four screws in each of them. one at each end and two in the middle the second one (or sometimes a third one) is high up holding the roof only. You need to remove the rear inside Qtr panel first then when you remove the side strips the whole roof frame drops on your head so do it from outside the car with the front seats up to catch it. It unclips at the rear by some secret method I've never fathomed but it does come out. Once down you need to disconnect the light wires and try to keep the insulation sheet intact; it is supposed to be stuck on but the fibres come loose easily. the light is mounted on the steel frame. Note if you are fitting a Hollandia steel sunroof there is no light but you can cut the fitting out of the standard roof frame and rivet/weld it in. My frame has had this done to it and the interior looks otherwise normal. Except you can see at night. Getting the lining out one of the doors is no fun but the book is right and I think you need the seats to be far forward and laid back. Two people make it easier.
Lesson Ten.Three - Putting the roof back on. It is pretty simple really. Try not to disturb any of the speed nuts that the screws go into as you can spend quite some time getting them back into the right place because the roof needs to be in its final position for many of them to line up. If the rear window is in you need to slide/work the rear lip into the slot then sit the rof down on the (permanently) sticky goo (NOT silastic!) meaning a non-setting sealer than won't glue the roof on permanently. Start putting the screws in loosely at he rear working your way evenly to the front cross bar. You may need to tighten the rear screws before you can get the front ones in. If the roof and rear window are not aligned as above you may find it very hard to get some screws to start as a result of the gap. Try tightening the ones either side (to pull the roof down into shape). That done you can then put the front finisher in its slot. soapy water will help get the hook edge into and over the rubber. You then need to slide the corner finisher onto the front finisher and then maneuvre it on top of the gutter finisher, tucking the inside piece into place at the same time. This is best done with th door seal OFF an some paint handy as its easy to scratch the pinch channel. Note the front finisher slides on, the gutter finisher is clipped onto. Then the A post cap is slid back up under the corner piece and riveted back in place noting that the corner finisher and A post cap share the top rivet, one being under the other. If the rivets didn't come out completely, that is you just took the head off, you can punch them through first but try not to make a bigger hole.
Lesson Ten.Four - The Rear qtr panels. These can be a real pain for three reasons. First there are two sets of screws at right angles to one another, Second the nuts are in J clips ie. captive nut n spring clip, which move about somewhat and Three the holes the J clips sit in offer very little lateral support so its very easy to cross thread the fine pitch (10-32) threads and the panel is designed to prevent you seeing where the screw is going. After much stuffing around (Days) I finally figured out that the holes on one side of the car did not align ith those on the panel at all. I wound up doing two things to fix the End direction chrome screws, first I made a single aluminium strip up to screw them into based on the panel holes which I clipped to the frame with paper clips then I lined this up to get one screw in correctly, took the panel back off marked where the holes were out and filed them to suit....With that fixed the panel is slid into the window finisher recess first then rotated into position then the chrome end screws are inserted and tightened up followed by the two internal set screws note you need toither bend the tab at the top of the end screwplate or rock the panel back and fourth so the tab fits up into the corner of the door aperture. I used a similar screw plate process on the rear panel under the boot at the back which suffers a similar loose Jclip problem. Note you only really need four UNF tap and die sizes for the Rover body panels, 10-32, 1/4", 5/16" and a few 3/8" but be aware buying nuts (and sometimes set screws) in 10-32 (3/16" in other threads) they can come in EITHER 5/16" head size or 3/8" head size (across the flats). The rear decker panel needs the smaller size head or the two right angle nuts interfere with each other when mounting.
