Rebuilding HIF6 carbs

South Gippy Rover

Active Member
Hi all,
I’m finally going to bite the bullet and rebuild the HIF6 carbs on my 3500s.
I’m fairly confident all will go well as I have a good SU carb book and the Burlen website for guidance.
Does anyone have any pointers or advice from their own personal experiences they want to share before I start?

Thanks as always,

Paul.
 
Take pictures, loads of pictures. First ones with them still on the car from different angles, then plenty throughout the strip down.
 
Just done mine & it fired up first time after assembly. I kept one carb together as a pattern whilst doing the other one . All the rubber shaft seals were totally shot having gone hard and cracked. I would point out I had some problems with some parts in the rebuild kits ,I had from Burlen , not fitting and one small gasket being incomplete. It was all resolved quickly but obviously interupted me. Wherever you source check them out. I also changed the petrol hose between the carbs for a high ethanol resistant one . The existing one had gone very brittle and was really unsuitable to reuse.
 
Refitting the springs with the correct tension is probably the hardest part from memory. Everything else is pretty straight forward. When you adjust the jet, wind it up until it is flush with the bridge, then wind down 2.5 turns of the screw. This will set your idle mixture essentially spot on.

Good luck!

Ron
 
I’d order new spindles too. They seem to wear faster than the bushes they run in and can make huge difference to how they run.
 
Not knowing much about carbs, I dove in and came up the other end with a successful rebuild using Burlen's supplied kits. I found them simple to work on, but was surprised at how thin/frail-looking the various little seals were (the choke/enrichment ones in particular, from memory), when thinking about how much a well-running engine relies on them. Afterwards I've had a fairly true "Set and Forget" experience with them.
 
Hi All,
Thanks everyone for their advice.
Quattro, I’ve taken way too many photos, but better safe than sorry.

Cobraboy,
“Make sure you order cold start enrichment device rebuild kits, they are separate items.”

Not sure if my car has these. It’s a manual choke. Couldn’t find any info on these anywhere.

Anyhow, I’ve finally started on the right hand carb. (AUD 623R)

A small stumble before I even started.

I bought the rebuild kits 2 years ago when I was back in the UK, grabbed them from the back of the cupboard and realised that I actually bought the service kits and not the complete rebuild kits.

Not too much of a difference, but the service kit doesn’t contain the throttle disc retaining screws.
Rather than order from the UK and wait, I found some online in Oz. Does anyone know if all the SU throttle screws are the same size/diameter etc?

I’ve started the strip down. The amount of crud in the float chamber was alarming. Also, a lot of the rubber is brittle and snapped as it was removed. Service was long overdue. :rolleyes:

I’m sure I’ll be posting more questions as I continue.

Cheers everyone.
Paul.
 
This diagram lifted from Burlen fuels HIF section
1617968762900.png
(a) Note the location of the ends of the fast idle cam lever return spring (17).
(b) Unlock and remove the cam lever retaining nut and locking washer (18).
(c) With the return spring held towards the carburetter body, prise off the cam lever and remove the return spring (19).
(d) Unscrew the starter unit retaining screws and remove the cover-plate (20).
(e) Withdraw the starter unit assembly and remove its gasket (21). Note: On later starter units the cover plate and starter body are designed not to be separated. This ensures greater accuracy of starter operation.
(f) Withdraw the valve spindle and remove the 'O' ring, seal and dust cap (22).

I think you should have these, follow the choke linkage to its end on the carb body.
 
Thanks CB for the prompt reply.
Yes I know what you mean now.
I was thinking of the automatic enrichment device sort of thing. Like this...

C0AA6513-5E97-4FFB-894B-AD7BE2415823.jpeg

The starter was a serious PITA to remove.
It was a very snug fit and needed a lot of encouragement to come out.
The O ring is looking very ordinary and the dust cap disintegrated on removal.

Just looked on the Burlen website.
Out of stock. :(
 
Do you mean the seal disintegrated , which it had on mine , the dust cap is metal or had it corroded away ?
 
Oops.
It was the brittle seal that disintegrated.
The dust cap is fine and has polished up quite well.

Another question guys.
Looking at my service kit (CSK 83), I can identify all the parts included, except one.
It’s a 12mm OD metal washer. I can’t work out where on the carb it would go or find it in any of the diagrams on the Burlen website.
Any ideas?

E3D3D34A-CD2A-438B-831E-00AF7840C51C.jpeg
Thanks again.

Paul
 
I have an answer to my own question regarding the throttle disc retaining screws. The ones I am looking at are AUC1358 which is what the HIF6 uses. They are on their way.
 
Mission accomplished and carbs successful reinstalled!
F1A8AE11-DB2F-4357-90B7-C429EE396807.jpeg
Gents,
Thank you all for your help and advice.
Relatively straightforward when using a methodical approach.
I had to drill out one of the throttle disc screws after my ham fisted attempt to loosen it failed. Car started second attempt- not bad considering the absence of fuel in the float chambers and idles a lot smoother. I took it for a quick spin around the block and all is good. I will take it on a proper test run when I finish fiddling with the settings.
Those with a keen eye will notice I have 2 different dampers AUC8102 on the RHS and AUC8103 on the left.
I will replace the incorrect one. Looking at the Burlen website I guessing that my AUD623’s should have the AUC8103 damper.
Can anyone confirm this before I order one.
Thanks again.
Paul.
 
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