Remounting RE340 regulator. What's important

[PNP]

Hi All,

I'm currently in the last stages of refurbishing the engine bay on my 68 SC Auto. Looks good and can't wait to get the engine back in.

When I removed the regulator the plastic insulators/stand off posts disintegrated. I had a friend machine me up three new ones (based on the remains of the best one) but the original crush tubes now (6 months later) appear to be a fair bit longer than the insulators. This prompts me to ask the following question

Is my priority ensuring the sheet metal baseplate is insulated from the inner wing and from the base of the lucas regulator or do I need to also ensure the screw heads and washers are also insulated from the base of the lucas regulator ?

I'm very sure the sheet metal baseplate as well as the components (coils) on the underside of the regulator are insulated/not able to earth but I'm only relying on a thin ring of plastic to seperate the crush tube from the regulator and the spring washers under the screw heads would almost certainly create a path to earth. Does the actual regulator base need to be insulated?

 

[colnerov]

Hi, The RB340 reg has an earth terminal spot welded to the base and there's an earth lead goes on it, on some cars I've seen a short lead go from there to a ring tag under one of the mounting bolts. The mounting rubbers are to mitigate some of the worst vibrations from the vehicle.

Colin

 

[Vern Klukas]

As Colin suggests, the mounts are for vibration isolation, not electrical isolation.

Yours
Vern

 

[PNP]

As Colin suggests, the mounts are for vibration isolation, not electrical isolation.

Yours
Vern

 

[PNP]

Thanks Gents. Looks Like I have it covered

 

[PNP]

Final Product. The posts my friend made up were in two pieces (post with smaller diameter ends to fit the two components and a ring to lock it into place. Ditched the ring in favour of a rubber mount with the right ID. Squeezed up nicely . Thanks for the advice.