Removal of brake Master cylinder

S

SirD66

New Member
I have a late 66 2000sc. Mysterious fluid loss was finally traced to a leaky master cylinder. The fluid was dripping from the cylinder to pedal trunnion rod and soaking into the floor sound deadlining material..Some paint loss (bad)exposing shiny metal (good). New master cylinder obtained and replacement looked straightforward (!)with Workshop Manual, Haynes and Autobooks giving the same procedure.....The old cylinder is now loose on its studs but cannot be removed by more than 3/4 inch. Even with assistant pushing the unscrewed rod right through the trunnion and pulling hard the cylinder will not budge further out. Using slim pliers I have removed old rubber cover from inside the carin case this was causing fouling... It seems to me that the bulkhead hole for the master cylinder is an extremeley tight fit. I can only assume that the alloy has corroded at the back of the cylinder and this is what jammimg in the hole stopping further removal. Has anyone had a similiar problem as I dont want to have to use extreme force? :(
 
Has it got a crimped on metal cover holding the rubber cover ? These can dislodge jamming in the hole
Can you get a long bar and knock it thro' from the drivers side ?
 
Have you removed just the two bolts holding the master cylinder in place?
Not sure about earlier cars, but the later ones have four bolts holding a plate to the bulkhead, through which passes the master cylinder.
One of the four bolts also holds the master cylinder in place.
So, if this is the case, remove the plate and the master cylinder will come with it, and you can then detach it from the plate on the bench!
If this does not apply to your car, or you've already tried this, apology!

Main
 
Thanks for the advice guys. In the end it was just a very tight fit-- after nearly 40 years it just didnt want to shift. Utilising arms from a hub puller with a tube for an extension I have levered it out without damage to the car. The new one is fitting ok. With cars like mine with battery in the engine bay, if you remove the battery you can see with a torch, and get to the lower nut on the stud with a 1/2 socket on a 1/4 drive with several extension bars. Im not looking forward to bleeding the rear brakes. ???
 
You might get away with just bleeding the front brakes. No air should have got into the pipe to the rear brakes
 
Bleeding that rear nipple is a nightmare. You can't get a bleed tube on it with the diff in situ. I just loosen it & let the fluid spurt out a few times. Messy though.
 
Bleeding the rear is easy if you make up a long bleed pipe of sufficient length to go in to a container on the ground, so you don't have to hold the container. Then get a mini (short) ring spanner and slide it over the bleed pipe. Then fit the bleed pipe to the nipple, and slide the spanner up the pipe to the nipple and bleed as req'd. This way it can all be done with one hand. If you use a bleed pipe with a one way valve you can even do the pumping of the pedal on your own as well.
 
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