Rob's long term Supercharging project

Ooohoooo. The big chop. Inner and outer sill now welded on good and proper. Seam welded to what was left of the old inner sill. Time for the dreaded D post.

DSC_0104 by 1275midget, on Flickr

DSC_0105 by 1275midget, on Flickr

and up inside the rear wheelarch. Off to discover some pictures that still exist of this area on the forum - I'm guessing at the moment as to how things are supposed to be joined up... I've stuck the inner strengthener bit on with a couple of tack welds and retired to the house to think about it.

DSC_0107 by 1275midget, on Flickr
 
getting there!

Outer D post tacked on to make sure the doors still fit

DSC_0149 by 1275midget, on Flickr

They do (hooray)

Inner D post welded on, along with the stiffener plate.

DSC_0151 by 1275midget, on Flickr

and all epoxy primered up

DSC_0168 by 1275midget, on Flickr

and one from the inside - this appears to be a pretty complex structure and I'm kind of guessing a bit, but it should look about right when the closing panels are on, and it's definitely stronger!

DSC_0166 by 1275midget, on Flickr
 
Oh my. Hadn't quite realised how long this has taken..... As an update, I now have new old stock rear arms, media blasted elbows and new rear suspension bushes all round. All the inside of the rear arch is done, and the terrible patch on the inside of the rear arch is done, after being peeled off with a screwdriver....

So now, I need to finish the welding, patch up round the edges of the boot, fit the new valance and put it all back together! Also an exhaust might be needed.

Slowed down slightly by the arrival of a small person early this year. But it will live again - can't be going to shows in the moderns with the little guy!
 
a mammoth effort last week: All rear suspension back on, diff back in, rear wings on, valance fitted, wheels on. Riding high on all new bushes. Adjustable shock in the back now. Boot floor and edges all repaired, areas behind rear wheels repaired, welding is FINISHED! 3 rolls of MIG wire has gone in, on the 4th bottle of gas. Starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel now.

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I've made another manifold (well, half made it)

There is not much space on this (the Driver's side) because there's a clutch master cylinder in the way, and a lot of engine mounts and starter motors and all sorts.

Still, this just about fits.


IMG-20191221-WA0003.jpg
 
What is the collector flange from ? What are you using below the collector and is that a lambda boss on the side ?
 
collector is from a Rover K series manifold. MGF/MGTF/Rover 200, 400, 25, 45, 75. About 20 quid off eBay, buy the whole manifold and you get loads of weirdy little bends as well, some of which are useful! Yes, it's a lambda boss, going to be used in the future. They are quite nice collectors: 4 into 2, with a balance hole for the lambda so it smells all the ports. It's integrated into the 4 bolt mounting flange too.

I've used one on my K series powered Midget, and it flows enough for 140bhp, so should be fine for half a V8.
 
Oh, below the collector is a Rover 25 down pipe, which matches the 4 bolt mount and does a long 2 into 1 with a flexi pipe. I think a new one was £13 in Rimmer Bros Sale. I've got one for each side.
 
i'm abit late with this but the 3500 parts cattledog (1974) has a label for the Dunlop Denovo runflat tyres. On it it states the tyre size as 205/65 HR 375. I presume the 375 means it is on a 15" rim of unstated width. 1970 Holdens, fords and Chryslers came out with 185/78 HR 14 it was a very common tyre. given Rover widened the rim for the V8s from 5.00" to 5.50" I suspect it was the stylists and bean counters that kept the tyre size down. 205s really do need at least a 6" rim width and the Rostyle wheels look much better in 14" (P6B) than the 15" (P5B) variants (The coupe Rostyles are slightly different to the Sedans). Does anyone have a Denovo lying around they can measure the back space and rim width off?

On the supercharger front, have a look at the units used on Mazda Eunos. I have one, it is a screw type and very compact. in terms of cooling the latest tech is to use an air conditioning core with one of those newish little compressors they use on the shopping trolleys (cars) The cores can get down to zero degrees so they really pull the heat out and if you aren't running air con you can use the standard condenser core which fits neatly in front of the radiator. The A/C bits from an old style mini should be small enough. Catch is you'll need EFI as the freezing core will condense the petrol giving you distribution/mixture headaches. On the other hand You'll be able to run ridiculous boost without detonation...
 
Oh, below the collector is a Rover 25 down pipe, which matches the 4 bolt mount and does a long 2 into 1 with a flexi pipe. I think a new one was £13 in Rimmer Bros Sale. I've got one for each side.
Many thanks for the info in these two posts, I will do some research.
 
i'm abit late with this but the 3500 parts cattledog (1974) has a label for the Dunlop Denovo runflat tyres. On it it states the tyre size as 205/65 HR 375. I presume the 375 means it is on a 15" rim of unstated width. 1970 Holdens, fords and Chryslers came out with 185/78 HR 14 it was a very common tyre. given Rover widened the rim for the V8s from 5.00" to 5.50" I suspect it was the stylists and bean counters that kept the tyre size down. 205s really do need at least a 6" rim width and the Rostyle wheels look much better in 14" (P6B) than the 15" (P5B) variants (The coupe Rostyles are slightly different to the Sedans). Does anyone have a Denovo lying around they can measure the back space and rim width off?

On the supercharger front, have a look at the units used on Mazda Eunos. I have one, it is a screw type and very compact. in terms of cooling the latest tech is to use an air conditioning core with one of those newish little compressors they use on the shopping trolleys (cars) The cores can get down to zero degrees so they really pull the heat out and if you aren't running air con you can use the standard condenser core which fits neatly in front of the radiator. The A/C bits from an old style mini should be small enough. Catch is you'll need EFI as the freezing core will condense the petrol giving you distribution/mixture headaches. On the other hand You'll be able to run ridiculous boost without detonation...

Now that air con idea is an interesting idea. I have an Eaton M45 in the shed (which is probably a bit small). The air con system sounds like a much improved air/water intercooler. I'll have a dig about! EFI is on the list an any case.
 
Two books you might want to get hold of 1/ Forced Induction performance tuning by A. Graham bell and 2/ Superhcharging by Corky Bell
 
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