Rough running

Quote "I remember in the early 1970's a number of V8 distributer caps were cracking & thus tracking between cylinders making the engine fire on two cylinders at the same time making for horrendous knocking as one was well before top dead centre . "
Mate of mine brought a S1 back from UK to Oz late 70s - with a misfire. No 1 dead, no compression. Pulled the head, nothing immediately visible, but eventually found there was a hole burned through the centre dimple. Dropped the sump, replaced the piston and shells, re assembled.....still had a misfire - pulled the dizzy cap - tracking from 2->1 ! Also, when I tried to tighten the head down one bolt sort of stripped the thread - somehow a short bolt got into the hole for an intermediate bolt. After some searching I found a bolt a bit longer than std that would almost bottom in the hole but not quite, and picked up enough threads to get close to spec torque....and it drove away!
 
Thx everyone the engine has been striped now and found hg was blown a little. We were going to do this job but at later date this just moved it forward
Going to put sd1 heads new cams manifolds downpipes carbs.ect .so should be good after this
 
update on V8 issues. stripped and cleaned carbs. replaced 'jets' in both with Burlen kit parts. everything seems. OK. rebuilt and tried firing up. started easily ..idled with bit of choke ok. revved up on throttle easily but ...moments later it starting stumbling ..spitting unburnt fuel out inlets on carbs.. assuming its new jets ? need adjusting ( lean? rich?) though as it showed same symptoms before working on carbs I am leaving towards sticking valves ? timing has not been altered and is full electronic dizzy .HT leads etc all replaced about 2 years ago. fuel filter. shows clean fuel bubbling up and an now running on electric facet type pump as removed mechanical to try and get round running issues. suggestions welcome though setting fire to it was the wife idea.
 
update on V8 issues. stripped and cleaned carbs. replaced 'jets' in both with Burlen kit parts. everything seems. OK. rebuilt and tried firing up. started easily ..idled with bit of choke ok. revved up on throttle easily but ...moments later it starting stumbling ..spitting unburnt fuel out inlets on carbs.. assuming its new jets ? need adjusting ( lean? rich?) though as it showed same symptoms before working on carbs I am leaving towards sticking valves ? timing has not been altered and is full electronic dizzy .HT leads etc all replaced about 2 years ago. fuel filter. shows clean fuel bubbling up and an now running on electric facet type pump as removed mechanical to try and get round running issues. suggestions welcome though setting fire to it was the wife idea.
I had a similar problem when I installed a facet style (Chinese knock off) electric pump. Traced it to a blocked return fuel line at the restrictor. Fitted new float needle valve seats and a pressure regulator as well for insurance. All worked ok until the new pump failed.
 
just had a guy round assisting .checked jet heights. needle length settings. mechanical linkage etc used carb 'balancer '. given up at moment for rest of day. one bank ( nearside) seems better than other bank. need choke to get it to stay running at low rpms. so will play with mixture screws over next day or so.. wife has offered box of matches ...
 
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So after many new replacement parts for the electrics, I finally discovered what was wrong! The throttle connecting rod between the carbs had broken, so only one carb working. The rod looked as if it was fine until I touched it and it dropped. Seems so obvious now, but hope this helps someone else. Thanks again for all the info in this thread.
 
Ha! I broke mine trying to remove the linkage. If you cant get proper connectors, Speco make metal versions in the correct thread - 1/8". One of mine was metal, the other plastic. Playing with jets etc you are always going to need to retune the mixture - as the WSM says - jet level with bridge, then 2.5 turns rich on the screw, it will run. I made good progress with colortunes, now starts and runs nicely.
 
Thanks for that. Wins have replacement ends which fit the original threaded bar. Just need Sydney lockdown to end now!
 
regarding the dizzy condenser
so, I am getting no spark at plugs, HT lead remove from dizzy when earthed. plenty of sparks.
Thought maybe the condenser breaking down. Sounds daft, but I think I may have put the insulation between the wire from the coil and the condenser on to the holding bolt, eyesight getting a bit iffy now
To recap, the contact breaker spring is isolated from the bolt by a nylon insert, the wire from the coil and the condenser, separated from the contact spring but joined together by another nylon piece/nut
Any body with a breakdown drawing
How many have I done in the past???? memory a bit iffy to,(84 next month)
regards
Brian
 
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so, I am getting no spark at plugs, HT lead remove from dizzy when earthed. plenty of sparks.

Faulty rotor arm going to earth. If you have a spark when earthing the king lead then the points and condenser are OK. Remove the cap then try holding the king lead just away from the rotor arm and see if you get a spark, if you do it confirms that the rotor is the problem
 
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