Rover 3500S from Austria

TyroleanRover

Active Member
Dear Forum Members,

WOW! You have some really amazing P6s shown in this thread.
I want to join your comunity and show you my Rover P6 3500S.

It is a 1976 3500S, LHD that was originaly sold in Austria.
Once it was red, but the last owner colored it in "paprika".

The body is in very good condition, has almost no rust (which is a little wonder in the salty austrian winters)...
But there are a few "details" and things to get done... i will post a "to-do-list" with parts that i need and work that has to be done, and i hope you will help me with your knowledge.

Thank you in advance...
here are the first pics

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Looks like a well preserved, original car. From the Austrian Rover Club Site, I think, because this steering wheel left some burnt space in my brain :D
And it´s a rare "S". I´ve looked also for a S, but then went to the better body car which made it necessary to look for a LT77 (found..).
Did S models not have the other hubcaps ?
 
You're right, i contacted the seller via the austrian rover club site.
The steering wheel looks awful. Unfortunately the original one is not there anymore.
But I have access to a 3500 junker in 2 weeks, and I will cannibalize the whole interior.
I don't know about the hubcaps, but I like the look of them combined with the paprika colour and the black vinyl roof.
 
Great looking car! Demetris is correct, the 3500S models only had the bolt-through style hubcaps until the end of the 1973 model year at which point both manaul and auto models were made visually identical with the same hubcaps and vinyl roof.

Police ones though I'm told, still used the early 'S' trims as these could not rotate within the rim as the other style did, meaning they didn't risk chopping through the tyre valve.
 
Dear community

I looked over the whole car and finished my "To-Do-List".
Maybe someone also want`s to look over it, and has a good hint for me to solve the problem.

The first things to do:
  • Gear stick feels loose, reverse gear lock is not working
    • The stick really whobbles around. It`s hard to find the gears, but all gears work and they don't jump out during driving. The lock of the reverse gear is not working, there is a little spring on the lock, but it seems to stuck.
  • Car brakes, but feels like brake booster does not assist
    • The brake booster is definitely not helping while breaking. Or only a little. If i push the brake pedal it does not come back smoothly. If i "pump" on the brake pedal, its always returning to a different position.
  • Car smells after refuelling. Fuel tank ventilation?
  • Check hoses and cables in the engine bay if loose
    • I saw that there are a some hoses in the engine bay that are not conected. I will check this. The engine ventilation is missing for example
Thanks
Simon
 

Attachments

  • To-Do-List.pdf
    71.6 KB · Views: 7
P6 3500 1973 - Junker to cannibalize - Is there someone interested from AUSTRIA / GERMANY / SWITZERLAND / ITALY ???

I have the chance to buy a 1973 Rover 3500 in 1-2 weeks.
I need just almost the whole interior Seats/Instruments/Steeringwheel/controls... and maybe the boot lid.
I will leave the interior parts that are especially for the automatic version
The Car has not run since a few years, but it can roll. It is complete except the two front fenders, headlights and grill and the interior i take apart.

I would take about 900,00 Euro for the rest.
The buyer has to carry it away with a trailer.

If interested, please write me a PN or make an offer.

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It's a bit of a long haul form Cape Town with a trailer, so, would you be prepared to remove the boot lid mount bits for me?
Also, what does the steering wheel look like? Mine is all cracked and horrible, and I'd rather keep it original Rover than go aftermarket.
 
If you can find somewhere to store it, having a second car to strip spare parts from can be very useful! You can then remove and refurbish parts at your leisure, and have them ready for when things go wrong with the Rover you're driving.
I was in your part of the world last week, very picturesque.
Swap those wheel trims over. A manual P6 looks better with the 'S' trims, in my opinion.
 
It's a bit of a long haul form Cape Town with a trailer, so, would you be prepared to remove the boot lid mount bits for me?
Also, what does the steering wheel look like? Mine is all cracked and horrible, and I'd rather keep it original Rover than go aftermarket.

Dear John.
As i wrote, i need the whole interior by myself and also the bootlid (because of the motifs). I will change my awful aftermarket steering wheel to the one in the junker.
I just leave the automatic transmission selector and inside.
The steel body, the windsceens, all glasses, chromeparts, the v8 (has run about 130.000km - the previous owner has written a driving documentation) with all surounding aggregats plus automatic transmission is for sale.
I don't have time to cannibalize the whole car and ship the parts, so someone has to take the rest with him on a trailer.

Greetings, Simon
 
If you can find somewhere to store it, having a second car to strip spare parts from can be very useful! You can then remove and refurbish parts at your leisure, and have them ready for when things go wrong with the Rover you're driving.
I was in your part of the world last week, very picturesque.
Swap those wheel trims over. A manual P6 looks better with the 'S' trims, in my opinion.

Dear mrtask,

The problem is, the P6 is not the only classic car that needs a space. I don't want to park the junker into the grass, especially not during winter and i dont have a space anywhere else for it.
I'm sorry but i don't like the "S-Trim" hubcaps. My Plan for the car is this.
I want to change the whole Ambla Interior to a leather interior from the 3500S and i want to dye it black. The car should also get a black carpet. The steering wheel comes from the 3500.
This should fit perfectly to the paprika colour outside and look like this:
1972-rover-3500s-p6-british-classic-sports-saloon-car-interior-dj66pt.jpg

Because my other classic car, the yellow 1983 Mercedes on the pictures on the beginning of the thread looks very "well behaved" the P6 should be a little contrast to it. I like the conversions that damianZ28 did.
I want to put classic 14" or maximum 15" wheels on it, and the car should get 205er wheels to make it look more muscular. That's all. I Like the look of the wheels size of Damians Red Rover. Originally the tires hide that much in the wheel arches, i think they need to come out a little.
A other posibility is to buy indivdually widened steel wheels and use the hubcaps that are actually mounted.
 
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Dear John.
As i wrote, i need the whole interior by myself and also the bootlid (because of the motifs). I will change my awful aftermarket steering wheel to the one in the junker.
I just leave the automatic transmission selector and inside.
The steel body, the windsceens, all glasses, chromeparts, the v8 (has run about 130.000km - the previous owner has written a driving documentation) with all surounding aggregats plus automatic transmission is for sale.
I don't have time to cannibalize the whole car and ship the parts, so someone has to take the rest with him on a trailer.

Greetings, Simon
Hi Simon,
No problems, sir! Apologies for not reading your needs properly and asking for the wheel... it's been a heavy week at work and I am brain dead at the moment.
 
Hi, on the breaker, what's the carpet like? Particularly the transmission tunnel (this is auto specific). And the center console/shifter (obviously auto specific).

Body rubbers?
 
Hi, on the breaker, what's the carpet like? Particularly the transmission tunnel (this is auto specific). And the center console/shifter (obviously auto specific).

Body rubbers?

Dear Peter. I will leave the whole Carpet in the car, because i buy a new black one for mine. I will post or send you a photo. The console and shifter still looks fine. What dou you mean with body rubbers?
Greetings Simon
 
Window to door seals. door to wing. Door to door. I can't take the whole car as I only have a single space in a Tiefgarage.
 
I understand that.
I have the choice to buy the whole car, or only the interior and thoose things that i need in 1 or 2 weeks.
I have the space to store it a few weeks next to my house under a tarp, but i don't want to keep it there especially during winter.
Otherwise i pay a lot more for the whole car than for the parts i need and it just occupies space. As i found out in the internet, parts are not really easy to sell and do not have a huge demand in middle europe.
I have to lend a trailer, load and unload the car, invest some time to remove the parts, and if nobody needs it wrecking the rest also costs me money...

If someone can take the rest, and makes me a suitable offer i buy the whole car.
As i searched other cars to cannibalize on mobile.de in central europe, i saw they are wrecks! rusty, ugly and worn out.
This car isn't. And i would be satisfied with a fair offer under 1.000 €.
I'm not making money with this, i just want achieve a reasonable effort/benefit ratio.
That's a fair price i think for the whole bodywork in acceptable condition except the missing fenders, glasses, windscreens, the engine, carburators, all aggregats, the automatic transmission, wheels, hubcaps, signals, lights, suspension parts, etc... Those interior parts which i have twice then, like instruments, consoles etc or my old door panels could be part of the offer too. ... depending on the offer someone makes....

I will think about removing the parts for you. You will get a picture in the evening to check if they fit your needs and what its worth for you.
best regards

Simon
 
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Speaking from experience, well worth saving the fusebox from the parts car, for when the one in the Paprika car starts to melt!
 
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