Running in rebuilt engine
- Thread starter catboy
- Start date
Keep the revs below 3500 or so.
Stick a neodymium magnet (out of an old computer hard drive) or two to the oil filter. All my oil filters have magnets on them at all times.
Change the oil after 500 miles.
When I bought all my bits from Reel steel they gave me an additive (I think it was a zinc compound) and told me I'd void my warranty if I didn't use this additive in the first 500 mile oil.
Lake View Garage has discouraged me from using my favourite oil gunk (Wynns Supercharge) in the cars that have new engine components but MolySlip is a highly recommended oil additive, long favoured at Lake View.
Stick a neodymium magnet (out of an old computer hard drive) or two to the oil filter. All my oil filters have magnets on them at all times.
Change the oil after 500 miles.
When I bought all my bits from Reel steel they gave me an additive (I think it was a zinc compound) and told me I'd void my warranty if I didn't use this additive in the first 500 mile oil.
Lake View Garage has discouraged me from using my favourite oil gunk (Wynns Supercharge) in the cars that have new engine components but MolySlip is a highly recommended oil additive, long favoured at Lake View.
Ethelred
Interested to learn your magnet idea.
Certainly makes sense .
I do have a magnetic sump plug but this obviously only picks up the particles at the end of their journey .
As an aside ; I took the sump off not too many years ago . Quite a shock. Amazing amount of gunk and sludge build up over her lifetime lurking in there. This meant new oil had to float over the top of all that crap before entering the motor .
Gerald
Interested to learn your magnet idea.
Certainly makes sense .
I do have a magnetic sump plug but this obviously only picks up the particles at the end of their journey .
As an aside ; I took the sump off not too many years ago . Quite a shock. Amazing amount of gunk and sludge build up over her lifetime lurking in there. This meant new oil had to float over the top of all that crap before entering the motor .
Gerald
This'll spark some debate :wink:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
There are lots of others on here who have discussed this subject many times. Try the forum's search facility and I'm sure you'll find many posts. The new cam and lifters should be run at no less than 2000 rpm for at least 10 minutes to minimise the loading on the noses of the cams, which is highest at idling speeds, and enabling them to bed in without damage.
Dave
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
There are lots of others on here who have discussed this subject many times. Try the forum's search facility and I'm sure you'll find many posts. The new cam and lifters should be run at no less than 2000 rpm for at least 10 minutes to minimise the loading on the noses of the cams, which is highest at idling speeds, and enabling them to bed in without damage.
Dave
I think that the correct order is to nurse it first to run in the bearings and then occasinaly give it some welly (avoiding the low and high ends of the rev range) to bed in the piston rings.
Also ideally you should avoid too much town driving and too much steady motorway driving, variable loads and revs are far better. Allow the engine to warm up thoroughly to use the available performance and avoid situations that will lead to overheat.
It all sums up at being sensible over this period.
Also ideally you should avoid too much town driving and too much steady motorway driving, variable loads and revs are far better. Allow the engine to warm up thoroughly to use the available performance and avoid situations that will lead to overheat.
It all sums up at being sensible over this period.