Rust protection?

Vidal

Vidal

Member
Hi, this may be a ridiculous question but is there anything I can protect the inside of my new engine side plates with or will it just get stripped off by hot antifreeze and spread into cooling system and block up all the small water ways ?
 
I did think about that but I am running out of money for the rebuild, I just wondered about something I could just paint/spray on that is not just going to dissolve or worse still block up the internal channels. Galv would be a good option though it could mean drilling out the bolt holes after and also in one side there are threaded holes for the little tap and larger metal bung which would need seeing to. I have already painted the outside with engine paint anyway .
 
If you use a quality antifreeze and change it regularly, you don't have to worry about corrosion, even on bare metal. The side plates corrode in engines that are filled with tap water, or the antifreeze is forgotten since the cars were new.
 
You would want it plated rather than galvanized, two very different processes. If you look at a thermostat, items immersed in coolant are often (usually?) cadmium plated (yellow). Given it's 0.0001" thick, I doubt you'd need any drilling. It is however toxic.
 
PeterZRH said:
You would want it plated rather than galvanized, two very different processes. If you look at a thermostat, items immersed in coolant are often (usually?) cadmium plated (yellow). Given it's 0.0001" thick, I doubt you'd need any drilling. It is however toxic.
Click to expand...


So no mixing radiator water with you G&T's of an evening :D

Though of course you dont necessarily need cadmium plating, you can still electroplate Zinc

Graeme
 
Actually, 100% works just fine. I've been running it for a couple of years now, and Evans product (not what I use, but that's a tale of frugality) is certified for several aircraft powerplants.

Long story short, while antifreeze has less heat capacity than water, its vapour pressure is much higher. That means that you never get the film of steam against the hot surface that you do with water coolant, which vastly slows the heat transfer to the liquid coolant. Minimizing the thickness of this vapour film is the reason all water cooling systems are run under pressure. Race cars, which usually are required to run straight water (antifreeze is slippery), often run cooling system pressure close to 100 psi.

A side advantage is that, because there is no steaming or pressure in the system leaks are less frequent and rubber hoses last much longer. And of course, no water means close to no corrosion of either iron or aluminum.

Yours
Vern

Evans waterless coolant, prevent engine overheating
 
Vern Klukas said:
Actually, 100% works just fine. I've been running it for a couple of years now, and Evans product (not what I use, but that's a tale of frugality) is certified for several aircraft powerplants.

Long story short, while antifreeze has less heat capacity than water, its vapour pressure is much higher. That means that you never get the film of steam against the hot surface that you do with water coolant, which vastly slows the heat transfer to the liquid coolant. Minimizing the thickness of this vapour film is the reason all water cooling systems are run under pressure. Race cars, which usually are required to run straight water (antifreeze is slippery), often run cooling system pressure close to 100 psi.

A side advantage is that, because there is no steaming or pressure in the system leaks are less frequent and rubber hoses last much longer. And of course, no water means close to no corrosion of either iron or aluminum.

Yours
Vern

Evans waterless coolant, prevent engine overheating
Click to expand...

Wow, thanks very much for that, that little gem will be held in grey matter storage for many years to come
 
I have switched to Evans coolant now in my P6b 3500. still running hot after a run in traffic despite cleaning /back flushing system. might have to fit an electric fan but time and funds always against me. story of life I guess lol
time will tell .
 
It may not actually be running hot. One of the things about running waterless coolant is the indicated temperature will be higher than water. That's glycol's lower heat capacity on display. On my Triumph bike (has a digital gauge so I have numbers) it amounts to about 8°C degrees hotter. But (if you could measure it) cylinder head temperature will be the same or cooler than with water coolant.

Not to say your P6B isn't running hot though. But as long as the coolant isn't boiling and being spat out the overflow, engines can run comfortably at much higher temperatures than you'd expect — going back to those race cars NASCAR stock cars typically run in the 270°F range, running straight water at around 70 psi.

Which brings me to an edit of my first post. I said systems are pressurized to eliminate the vapour film. I should of said raising the boiling point, which then affects the vapour film.

Yours
Vern
 
Waterless coolant is different to using neat ethylene glycol coolant designed for dilution in water. One disadvantage of waterless coolant is you can’t just top up with water if you get a leak. I had my radiator burst on the way to work the other day. Water was dripping out of the bottom at quite a rate. I tipped in all the spare water coolant mix I was carrying, then headed for the nearest garage. By this time the coolant level was getting low again, and the temperature was climbing! I bought a pot of radiator seal, as a last ditch attempt, and refilled with water from the garage. Surprisingly the rad seal worked, and I made it back home. If I had waterless coolant, I’d have been stuck at the side of the road waiting for a recovery truck.

When I did the side plates on my engine, I painted the outsides black but left the insides the raw passivated finish as I was worried about flakes of paint clogging the engine.
 
I've looked into this extensively, and waterless isn't different to any appreciable degree—other than being propylene glycol as opposed to ethylene. The Evans system uses ethylene glycol as the water getter pre-treatment and propylene as the long term coolant. The additive pack is a little different than normal antifreezes designed to be mixed with water, but that about it.

As for springing a leak, you certainly can just add water. The trouble is that then you are committed to doing the whole water getting process again and replacing all the coolant.

Yours
Vern
 
Vidal said:
Hi, this may be a ridiculous question but is there anything I can protect the inside of my new engine side plates with or will it just get stripped off by hot antifreeze and spread into cooling system and block up all the small water ways ?
Click to expand...

Another less automotively conventional way to stop corrosion is to run an electrical current through the chassis (and engine) reverse electrolysis to prevent the rust. This system is used on ships to slow or prevent corrosion.
 
ghce said:
Another less automotively conventional way to stop corrosion is to run an electrical current through the chassis (and engine) reverse electrolysis to prevent the rust. This system is used on ships to slow or prevent corrosion.
Click to expand...
That's part of the reason everyone switched to negative earthing for the car batteries. That and radio reception.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top