Scarab the Rover..
- Thread starter ampwhu
- Start date
in frustration not being able to remove the prop, i decided to remove the fan, engine steady bar and air filter. So pretty much there ready for trying to remove the gearbox.
When the exhaust manifolds eventually came out (that drivers side rear bolt is fun) i have noticed these "splits" in both centre ports on both manifolds. They don't break into the exhaust ports so i am wondering if they are part of the casting?
On the subject of removing them, all 16 bolts were loose and there was only 7 gaskets fitted. the rear drivers side didn't have one?
When the exhaust manifolds eventually came out (that drivers side rear bolt is fun) i have noticed these "splits" in both centre ports on both manifolds. They don't break into the exhaust ports so i am wondering if they are part of the casting?
On the subject of removing them, all 16 bolts were loose and there was only 7 gaskets fitted. the rear drivers side didn't have one?
colnerov
Well-Known Member
Hi, The reason you can't turn the propshaft is because the rear wheels are on the floor, you will need to jack one of them up so the wheel can turn.
That is a normal casting idiosyncrasy so not a problem. Loose bolts are another common occurrence because of the heat cycles originally they had tab washers although spring washer can be used. Originally they didn't have exhaust manifold gaskets they are an aftermarket product.
Colin
That is a normal casting idiosyncrasy so not a problem. Loose bolts are another common occurrence because of the heat cycles originally they had tab washers although spring washer can be used. Originally they didn't have exhaust manifold gaskets they are an aftermarket product.
Colin
Make sure you have the wheels chocked well on those ramps as you will need to let the handbrake off to turn the prop.
so thanks for the advice on the gearbox oil, i do take notice on what has been advised.
this is the rebranded Castrol Syntrans 75W/90 that has been mentioned elsewhere on here.
I forgot to add that i have solved the slave cylinder puzzle. As mentioned in the tech section, i have used a TR7 clutch pipe and modified it to fit the P6 master cylinder. It is only £13 to buy. Master end is 3/8" UNF and slave end is M12 x 1mm.
Just need time to get on with it!
this is the rebranded Castrol Syntrans 75W/90 that has been mentioned elsewhere on here.
I forgot to add that i have solved the slave cylinder puzzle. As mentioned in the tech section, i have used a TR7 clutch pipe and modified it to fit the P6 master cylinder. It is only £13 to buy. Master end is 3/8" UNF and slave end is M12 x 1mm.
Just need time to get on with it!
i had 2 days free so cracked on with this gearbox removal. In fairness, i enlisted another pair of hands and the box was relatively easy to come out. it didn't put up a fight in other words.
it's easy when you have an engine support.
So when removed, it gave me a chance to look at the rear seal and the block. I reckon this has been apart not that long ago. i did find that the rear seal wasn't leaking or hasn't leaked. I guess its a rope seal. I can't tell from looking but someone might confirm for me??
Old spigot bush was worn on the LHS which i've never seen before. There was a small amount of play in the input shaft on the 4 speed box. This came out easily as i've done a few over the years on various cars. A hammer and chisel to "fold the sides in" was simple.
Chisel mark has been filed flat now.
it's easy when you have an engine support.
So when removed, it gave me a chance to look at the rear seal and the block. I reckon this has been apart not that long ago. i did find that the rear seal wasn't leaking or hasn't leaked. I guess its a rope seal. I can't tell from looking but someone might confirm for me??
Old spigot bush was worn on the LHS which i've never seen before. There was a small amount of play in the input shaft on the 4 speed box. This came out easily as i've done a few over the years on various cars. A hammer and chisel to "fold the sides in" was simple.
Chisel mark has been filed flat now.
so looking up at the tunnel i have started to make a rear gearbox support. early stages but these things take time.
Ideal time to compare both boxes and take measurements. Looks like the selector is exactly the same and where i am planning on fitting the new gearbox mount is pretty much the same place as well.
i am using a TR7 mount chopped up to fit the space. Not sure how its going to work, but we'll see.
one final thing. The rear propshaft flange on the diff looks to be leaking from the oil seal behind it. Is it possible to remove the flange and replace the seal whilst it's on the car? Looks to be held on by just a 1/2" bolt.
Ideal time to compare both boxes and take measurements. Looks like the selector is exactly the same and where i am planning on fitting the new gearbox mount is pretty much the same place as well.
i am using a TR7 mount chopped up to fit the space. Not sure how its going to work, but we'll see.
one final thing. The rear propshaft flange on the diff looks to be leaking from the oil seal behind it. Is it possible to remove the flange and replace the seal whilst it's on the car? Looks to be held on by just a 1/2" bolt.
Yes, remove the bolt, prise out the seal and fit the new one, retighten the bolt. There's no preload to worry about. make sure the diff breather is clear. You may find 2 seals, as it was such a common problem back in the day it was common to fit 2 seals to try to stop the leaks.
Be sure to prime the seal Ampwhu before you install it. Castol EPL2 works very well. If you install oil seals without priming them, you can be certain they will leak. I learned that from my Dad, during one part of his life, he was an aircraft engine mechanic, dismantling and rebuilding engines. He impressed upon me the importance of priming oil seals. For example, my Rover's original factory-fitted pinion oil seal was replaced by Rover specialists in 1986 with 46,170 miles (74,224km) covered. I replaced that one in 1991 as it was leaking with 53,382 miles (85,945km) of service. I primed the replacement and to date across a further 31 years and 318,814 miles (513,291km) it remains leak free.
As Harvey says, the flange will just pull off by hand, unless Loctite has been used in the splines.
Ron.
As Harvey says, the flange will just pull off by hand, unless Loctite has been used in the splines.
Ron.
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Ron, when you say "prime the seal" is that the same as you would on an oil filter? Smear a little oil on the seal of the filter?
Yes, apply grease liberally to the seal and to the end of the shaft where it will make contact.
Ron.
Rare free day to do some work on the rover. Whilst i am going to fit the 5 speed box, i need to look at a leak at the top of the engine at the rear. Couldn't quite find where it was coming from but suspected a gasket. So today i removed the manifold to look.
Right mess on top of the large gasket. The brake servo hose was breaking up so needs replacing.
I can anyone advise on the condition of the engine with the inlet gasket removed. I have a set of tappets which i will fit whilst its apart.
Another thing is the engine is a lot lighter now so changing the engine mounts will be easier. Also trial fitting the box will be easier with being able to see how it goes together.
Right mess on top of the large gasket. The brake servo hose was breaking up so needs replacing.
I can anyone advise on the condition of the engine with the inlet gasket removed. I have a set of tappets which i will fit whilst its apart.
Another thing is the engine is a lot lighter now so changing the engine mounts will be easier. Also trial fitting the box will be easier with being able to see how it goes together.
mrtask
Well-Known Member
Exhaust manifolds look nice – hope that product lasts longer than your last attempt. I feel your pain. I did my mild steel system from tip to tail with fiendishly expensive high temperature paint, but it didn't adhere for long! Very disappointing. Don't drop anything into the engine while it is open – I once clumsily let a small screwdriver bit vanish past the camshaft, and then had to drop the sump. Probably worth cleaning the sump and strainer and fitting a new sump gasket anyway though!