Scarab the Rover..

i forgot to take a picture but i have removed the sump, cleaned it and painted it already. Its back on the car. I thought the same about the exposed engine so it currently has some old clean towels covering it.

New parts have been ordered and i am awaiting delivery. Hopefully tomorrow. It was a rather large shopping list!
 
They should always be replaced as a set - camshaft and followers, as they wear in together. Fitting new followers to an existing cam will wear out the followers very quickly, sometimes with a few thousand miles.
 
i have managed to crack on with a few jobs over the last week before the xmas break. One job which would be easy with the engine hanging on the support was the engine mounts. I knew they were past their best and i was right. One of the left is the new one.

engine mounts.jpg

With fitting the 5 speed and new clutch components, it was easier to fit a new clutch master whilst the box was out. That is one tricky job with my fat fingers. What a pain! Thankfully in now. I cut away a small portion near the clutch fork to make fitting the clevis pin easier. If not, i was unable to get it in with the split pin. It's now easier.

clutch master.jpg

And the rear diff seal. It turns out it didn't have a seal fitted. No wonder there was oil leaking out. Judging by the very small metal filings, it was crucial to get this done. The flat area around the spline, had a small groove worn into it where the diff flange had been rubbing on it. With a new seal, this would have distanced it away from it and now no more grinding.

diff without seal.jpg

diff with seal.jpg

And i didn't forget another tip i received from this site. (thanks Ron). Grease around the lip of the seal.

I currently have the rad and the fan out that are going to get a paint so next up should be a trial fit of the 5 speed box to see how i'm going to squeeze it in. I have a gearbox jack so that should make it easier to lift into place. I am going to trial fit it without the flywheel and clutch fitted as it will make the engine lighter and easier to move about whilst i fit the box.
 
I reckon the grinding noises coming from my diff are probably due to the same seal being shot. I bet it looks just like your photo, Never had that seal out, but I reckon I'll find a whole lot of metal swarf.
Good work, you're getting on well. :thumb:
 
mrtask said:
I reckon the grinding noises coming from my diff are probably due to the same seal being shot. I bet it looks just like your photo, Never had that seal out, but I reckon I'll find a whole lot of metal swarf.
Good work, you're getting on well. :thumb:
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Thanks for your comments. It does encourage me. This is my 1st time working in this depth on a P6 and am learning about all this. It doesn't phase me so far. (lets see when its time to fit the gearbox). I did wait 30 years to buy another, so this one is getting all of these things done so i will hopefully have a nice drivable car when the time comes.
 
Happy new year to you all. I've managed some time to continue. I have jacked the gearbox up into the space to see what i need to do. I was unable to get the 1st motion shaft in the spigot bearing in the crank. After i moved the box, i had a measure up. The clutch lining tool wouldn't even fit which was strange. I did 'tap' the bush in and it went in smoothly. The internal hole was a little too small so i reamed it out to fit the shaft. Measured again and it will now fit. (haven't physically tried it again yet). Some pictures of it jacked under the car

trial fit1.jpg
trial fit2.jpg
trial fit3.jpg

I saw the video of the Penguin garage carrying out this and followed the advice on chopping a piece out of the bellhousing. I tried to make it look neat and tidy.
bellhousing cut.jpg

I started to cut away some of the metal on the tunnel sides.

tunnel cut1.jpg

and before i was done, i made a dust cover fot the 5 speed out of the old 4 speed one with a piece of rubber that fits over the 5 speed dust shield.

gearbox rubber cover.jpg

This was done over the weekend,
 
Today i started on some other jobs whilst i wait for my mate to come and assist me with the box. I fitted the exhaust manifolds with new allen head bolts.
exhuast manifold fitted.jpg

I have also fitted new pipes from the reservoir to both clutch and brake masters.

I wanted to remove the water pump pulley to give it a paint. As i attempted to move it i spun it and the bearings are rumbling. Wonderful i thought. Had i not checked that, that would have failed at some point.

water pump change.jpg

It currently has 2 snapped bolts of which 1 has been removed and the other snapped even further near the housing surface. The more i get involved, the more i am finding this sort of stuff. I have seen signs of small leaks around gaskets on the inlet manifold and there looked to be a small weep from the pump so i aim to address all these whilst i can.

So there is plenty to carry on with but time isn't on my side at the moment. I'll be back at work shortly so time will be less now for a bit.
 
ampwhu said:
Thankfully not. The one thats top left in the picture is the culprit. I can drill it out from both sides with a bit of luck and then re-tap the hole.
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Put some heat on the area and some grips on the remains, it may come out when hot.
 
cobraboy said:
Put some heat on the area and some grips on the remains, it may come out when hot.
Click to expand...


Ah yes, I used the blow torch and that's what snapped it even further. Theres about 3mm sticking out now. I'll try once more and then I'll drill it out.
 
Try some freeze spray, worked for me on a rounded off caliper bolt. The top left bolt is for the alternator stay isnt it?
 
jp928 said:
Try some freeze spray, worked for me on a rounded off caliper bolt. The top left bolt is for the alternator stay isnt it?
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Yes it is. its a 3/8unc. The snapped bolt is just below that. I am going to have another crack today if i get a chance.
 
A bit off topic, but think about changing he rubber O ring seal in the main/reserve tap while the engine is out. i am told that modern fuels and the old seal do not agree, and that changing the seal with the engine in place is near impossible.
 
robin collis said:
A bit off topic, but think about changing he rubber O ring seal in the main/reserve tap while the engine is out. i am told that modern fuels and the old seal do not agree, and that changing the seal with the engine in place is near impossible.
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Yes and yes. Use a Viton 'O' ring.
 
Good thinking Robin. When i purchased the car in September, i looked through the receipts in the service history and in there was a "viton seal" from Wins. I am guessing that this is the seal for the fuel tap? If so, the previous owner had the same thoughts as the old 4 speed had been out for a clutch change and it must have been done then.
 
got the snapped bolt out earlier. The only new bolts i could find were an M6 (shock horror) so i have tapped and fitted one. I have also fitted a new water pump today and used S/S bolts with a dab of copper grease on the end.

When the weather got worse, i moved into the warm and dry workshop and have stripped the inlet manifold down and given it a clean and a paint. I'll rebuild it over the coming week after work.
 
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