Scarab the Rover..

The O ring in the reserve is 9x2mm. The tap is moderately accessible with engine & gearbox in place if you drop the starter motor, and move the clutch slave aside.
 
I should have mentioned this earlier, but a really nice looking car, and a good colour. The work you are doing will make it even better.
I hope you enjoy driving it when the work is done.
In my opinion, 3500S is one of the most underrated classis. let's keep it a secret so that prices do not go through the roof. Fa better than the 3.8 jag I once drove for 3 days.
 
Thanks for your positive comment Robin. My aim is to have a good drivable car. In reference to the viton seal, Its listed as a fuek tap viton seal in the receipts and was purchased in Nov 2018. I guess it was fitted at that point.
 
Hello all, a little progress.

Have finally managed to install the gearbox now and have removed the gearbox jack completely.
Gearbox in.jpg

In the end i decided against using the TR7 rear mount as i thought of an easy option and decided to fabricate a rear mount out of some 3mm mild steel i had. I made it in 5 pieces so i could have it secured in 2 points on each side. You can see the drilled holes at the base of the tunnel sides.

Rear mount.jpgsupport plates.jpgcompleted gearbox.jpg

So the largest job completed. It took a couple of days to measure, cut and weld. Then paint but its sturdy enough and won't be going anywhere. As for the rubber mount, that's a 50mm deep and 70mm diameter rubber mount. They are used in my work industry so are able to withstand heat, oil and a tremendous amount of force so pretty much tough enough for a gearbox.

So i currently have most of the ancillaries removed and painted and awaiting refitting. I have also cut the holes in the tunnel. I have a 43mm hole cut for the gearbox filler plug and a 43mm hole cut down near the speedo cable drive where i can run it inside the car for about 15-20cm and then out of the square hole up to the centre console.

I've currently looked into the gearstick and gaiter and have a few idea's in my head of how i want to do it. I will need a new handbrake gaiter as the old one fell apart when it was removed.
 
sorry for the lack of update but i had a fall a couple of weeks ago and bashed my elbow and wrist around the time we had snow here. It's put me out of action for a bit but i am due to carry on with some work hopefully this weekend.
 
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Don't feel obliged to apologise for not wrenching if you've injured yourself! Hope you recover enough to get back at it, but not before you've recuperated sufficiently.
 
back at it now i'm better.

I've completed the work underneath with the exhaust fitted and the prop in place. I did fit the auto prop but wasn't comfortable with how much of the splines were showing so fitted a 15mm spacer from a land rover and it's a better solution now. forgot to take any pictures.

Once all that was done, i filled the gearbox with the castrol oil and used around 1.6ltr before it dribbles out the hole. Here's a picture of the gearbox tunnel inside and my solution for the speedo cable.

gearbox tunnel inside.jpg

I drilled a couple of 43mm holes for access to the speedo cable to be able to do up the nut . The speedo cable then travels up the tunnel into the centre console. The rubber bung is the 43mm hole for filling the gearbox. All closed off with a simple plate and self tap screws. The speedo cable is just resting inside until i connect up at the instrument end.

Whilst finishing off underneath, i then thought about bleeding the clutch. I came up with a solution where i didn't need to crawl under to do it.

underneath.jpg
clutch bleed point.jpg

How i did it was so easy. I connected up my oil extractor (pela 600) and sucked the fluid through and out the bleed nipple where i've mounted it above the gearbox bell housing. Simple and quick and was done in 10 mins. The clutch pipe from master to slave is from a TR7 with a M12 fitting on one end. I have a decent enough clutch now with the biting point around halfway. The clutch pedal is about level with the brake pedal.

How i checked the biting point is for my assistant (who is fed and watered) to put a socked on the crank and then turn the engine until he can't with me pressing the clutch. this gives you my biting point. Easy to do whilst not starting the engine.

Onto fitting the inlet manifold and fuel pipes was no drama and is all back on.

One question i do have is the filter for the crankcase breathing. Which way should the arrow on the filter face? towards the engine or towards the air filter?

I've fitted the front 2 pipes to the inlet manifold but can't work out the back 2 heater hoses. The manual says this way

manual pic.jpg

Which is like this i guess?

hoses.jpg

However i have 2 different sized pipe ends on the inlet manifold and one of the pipes doesn't fit.

inlet outlet.jpg

enlarged end.jpg

The above pipe has a slightly enlarged end.

Can anyone advise please?
 
i've been sent a picture by someone else that has it different to how i have i have it.

so question is, which of the 2 pipes at the rear is the flow and which is the return. Would the flow hose go to the top and return at the bottom?

Thanks
 
Breather filter arrow should point towards the engine.
There are two sizes of heater stub fittings on the manifold, and two different goes to match. You can either change the hose or the stub, whichever is easier.
Top hose on the heater goes to the bottom on the engine and is the return, top on the engine is the supply and goes to the bottom on the heater.
 
Thanks Harvey. So i have the wrong hoses then?

Checking Wins website, i do in fact have the wrong hose. I have a Suf B hose set when i need a Suf A set. I have a Suf A car!
 
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i've resolved the heating pipes now. suffix A and suffix B. everyday is a school day. Mines a March 1972 car but have been advised its a change over model. It means they used up the old parts from the parts bin!

heater hoses.jpg

Also a picture of my progress on the engine.

engine progress.jpg

I've gone and replaced pretty much every rubber part and have given it a full service. with the electronic ignition i should have a reliable car for the summer months ahead. Well thats the plan anyway.
 
Much neater LT77 mount than I could manage! I could not even get the box up past the original mounts, so you have done very well there. Much kudos to you.
 
Thanks JP. it wasn't easy and i couldn't have done it on my own. My mate helped with removal and fitment of the gearboxes. I have done the rest. It cost me coffees and breakfasts but worth it as he's an incredible engineer (much better than me). He has lathes, milling machines and all sorts of other machines in his workshop. Thankfully none was required but he's only 5 miles away but difficult to get hold of.
 
I've got to the point of start up yesterday. Looking at the picture above, the vacuum part of the dizzy is touching the top heater hose where it fits. This means i have no more adjustment of the timing. This part of the engine i'm not very knowledgeable on. Timing may need a little tweek.

How would i reotate the dizzy a quarter of a turn away from the rad hose to allow for more timing?

dizzy rotation.jpg


I've also "crawled" around in the car and managed to get the speedo head end of the cable fitted. That was quite easy to be honest. Very much out of my comfort zone.

speedo head.jpg
 
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Have a look and see if your HT leads are fitted as per diagram.
If not you should be able to move them all round one post and re position the distributor to get the vac can away from the hose. Bear in mind it's early and my Sunday brain is not warmed up yet !
1678007407817.png
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As there are no leads fitted to the cap, I assume you have not timed up yet, so final position is not set yet ? I guess you have just got the dist in the hole, you can slacken the clamp and turn it, then time it up and it should be away from the hose.
 
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Sorry I should have said. That cap is just a dust cover. The dizzy hasn't been moved at all since I drove it into the garage. So is already set where it was when I was driving it.

I'll get a picture of the current leads position.
 
Sorry I should have said. That cap is just a dust cover. The dizzy hasn't been moved at all since I drove it into the garage. So is already set where it was when I was driving it.

I'll get a picture of the current leads position.[/QUOTE
 
I have checked the firing order and its correct.

The reason i'm asking all this is it's currently set at around 8 degrees. Reading the various manuals and with me using E5, its says it should be TDC. to get to that, the hose currently resticts the dizzy moving.

the dizzy cap clip nearest the rad has leads 1 and 4 either side of it. Your diagram suggests that's wrong. it indicates 8 and 1.

So if i moved all the leads along one by one to the right (anti clock) that would be right???

The Repair Operations Manual says different as well............ I'm lost now.........

thumbnail.jpg
 
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