series 2 Kienzle clock repair.

ButterFingers

Active Member
hi there,
I have a spare Kienzle clock which is also not working.
Have read the other posts on repairs so had a look at mine.
In pat180269 post the offending bit is the contact , same with mine.
so this is what I have found. In the picture the copper contact at the top has a hole in the center.
does this have to be solered to the point lower down?
Peter
 

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Solder which melts at a lower temperature than normal solder, typically 70/100' although there are other variations. Normally you are looking at 180' plus. Us Railway Modellers use it to put together whitemetal kits which would melt if we used the normal stuff. I also use it to make small scale brass kits. It's best used with a liquid flux.
 
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I fixed mine without adding any new solder as I wasn’t sure exactly what the melting point of the original was. If you can’t do that, best to start with the lowest melt and workup if it keeps fusing.
 
Solder which melts at a lower temperature than normal solder, typically 70/100' although there are other variations. Normally you are looking at 180' plus. Us Railway Modellers use it to put together whitemetal kits which would melt if we used the normal stuff. I also use it to make small scale brass kits. It's best used with a liquid flux.

the question is why did it melt in the first place?
there seems to be solder still on the lower half, if I can get in there with a soldering iron, I will try using that first.
Peter
 
the question is why did it melt in the first place?
there seems to be solder still on the lower half, if I can get in there with a soldering iron, I will try using that first.
Peter

The solenoid contacts can fuse together due to sparking and poor contact resistance causing the coil to over heat as it gets stuck permanently on ( very common on this sort of car clock) so it pays to re-burnish the solenoid contacts from time to time.

Graeme
 
Just hold the contacts together and touch briefly with a low power soldering iron (15 watt or so) and that should re-connect them.

after looking at mine, I was wondering how to hold the copper bit to the lower solder blob bit, cant get small pliers in to grip it, dont want to disassemble it either. Must explore some more!
Peter
 
an up date: the parts to be repaired are to small to handle, cant get in to hold bits to be soldered, so the clock is destined to the
parts bin....I never throw things away..:cool:
Peter
 
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I got told by one of the local members that there was a guy in Wolverhampton who took out the gubbins in the back and replaced it with a modern electric clock mechanism, using the front face to keep it looking original. That may be an option?
 
Hi all,
I don’t normally like resurrecting old threads but it doesn’t seem appropriate to start a new one.
The Kienzle clock in my 1975 3500S has never worked since I acquired the car. This week I removed it and found the soldered link had melted.
The clock ticks along quite happily if wound by hand. Simple fix I thought.
I resoldered the link and popped it back in place and immediately a fuse blew in the fuse box.
My fuse box has been upgraded to a blade type set up. The blown fuse is 10amp.
I’ve now temporarily disconnected the power supply to the clock.
I obviously have a short somewhere. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
Thanks as always.
Paul.
 
Hi, Remove the fuse and connect a bulb across the fuse terminals, if there's a short it will light up. Then go round checking the loom for damage, unplugging items covered by that fuse until the bulb goes out and that will be where the short is.

Colin
 
Hi Colin,
I’m pretty sure the fault lies in the clock or its power supply as the fuse blows as soon as the purple wire is connected to the terminal on the back of the clock.
I will double check using the bulb method as I have learnt from previous experience that auto electrics lie somewhere between witchcraft and sorcery.
Unfortunately I probably won’t get a chance to check until after the weekend.
Thanks again.
Paul.
 
I have mine on the bench at the moment.
Measure the resistance of the coil. I.e. The resistance across the power input and the earth (with the coil contacts closed). Mine is measuring 15-20 ohms.
If yours is significantly less, but still above zero, then the coil could damaged. Hence the large draw of current.
If you measure a flat short circuit, zero ohms, then check that your soldering is not causing a short circuit.

Hope that is of some use.
G.
 
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