Sleipnir's very early original engine

Personally, I'd strip it all down and get stuck into the bores with a box of elbow grease and fine scotchbrite with paraffin to wash the gunge out. Once they are clean have them measured up for ovality and size, which will effectively dictate the next step.

If the bores are dimensionally in spec, then I'd have the block chemically cleaned and pressure tested as the next step, to confirm the bores are intact. If the test is good, then a hone and new rings takes care of that part of the job.

If the bores are out of spec, I wouldn't just bore them without looking into re-linering first from a cost point of view. You should be able to get standard liners from Westwood and you can even go with flanged liners if you feel the need, but on the 3500 it's a bit OTT in my mind.
Back in 2014, a 4.6 liner came in at GBP30.60 + VAT for an idea of costs. I don't know how much the machining to fit and finish will be, but that should be straightforward to get from an engine builder to compare with the cost of a rebore and new pistons/rings.

While it's at the machine shop, I'd also have the rear seal area modified to fit a lip seal in place of the rope seal.
 
To undo the pistons from the crank - i notice there's a strange type of nut - what do i need to undo that?
 
You could try talking to Tuner engineering if you don't want to do it all yourself, they may be able to give you an idea of costs - I only mention them because they did my block (top-hat liners/reground crank/new pistons, rings, big ends, mains & cam bearings for around £2500) and I'm very happy with the quality of their work. Not cheap but they do have a good reputation.
 
Today I've taken the cam out - doesnt look too bad to my untrained eye? No flat lobes...? It'll get a shiny new one in any case...

IMG_20170520_120639.jpg

The pistons dont feel like they want to move - so I'm wondering whats the best way to get them out. Is it better to remove the crank and try and persuade them with a hammer and a black of wood or is it best to get the crank turning first?

I've been putting wd type stuff down the bores from both directions every night over the last week or so...

Thanks
 
Personally, if you can get to all of the conrod nuts, I would remove the crank then tap tap tap with 2x2 and a hammer.

What are the tops of the followers like?

Richard
 
Hi,
I am afraid that camshaft is completely knackered, I personally would not reuse any during a engine rebuild.
Clive.
 
Hi,
I am afraid that camshaft is completely knackered, I personally would not reuse any during a engine rebuild.
Clive.
I Won't be reusing it anyway. Just I've seen some where the cam lobes are no longer even eccentric... I think a 3.9 or mild road cam will be good for this.
 
Personally, if you can get to all of the conrod nuts, I would remove the crank then tap tap tap with 2x2 and a hammer.

What are the tops of the followers like?

Richard
The followers I haven't really looked at as I don't intend to reuse them.

Cranks haft out it is then
:)
 
Got some pics of my nada cam when I fist got it, ( somewhere) running on 5 cylinders with 3 missing lobes.
Top speed , about 50mph :p
 
Back
Top