Sort out front guard.

#1
Well, the old Rove is off the road for the next year because I couldn't justify the $1000 rego, considering how much I drive it.
A few weeks back, there was an article in the paper about a retired (proper) panel beater who was offering to pass on his skills to those interested.
I though it might be a good opportunity to sort the front guard and a few little dings in a few other panels...and paint the car whilst at it.
Here are a few pics of the left front guard.
I cant claim credit for the work, except grinding it back...cutting the rusty bit out, and cleaning up the welded bit...but its a start.
Planning to do a little each week...learning as I go along.
 

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#6
Won't a Rover reject a transplant from a Toyota ?
Seriously I'd love to be able to weld in patches without ending up with massive distortion
Did he use gas or MIG ? Anything like heat absorbing putty?
 

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#7
Hi Brenten,

Are you going to keep your Rover British Racing Green, as per the original factory application?

Look forward to seeing your progress. :)

Ron.
 
#8
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Are you going to keep your Rover British Racing Green, as per the original factory application?
Hi Ron.
Yes, I will keep it the same colour...when people see the car, generally one of their first comments is that they like the colour...and the contrasting white roof.
Keeping the colour just makes the repainting that little bit easier too.

DaveHerns said:
Did he use gas or MIG ? Anything like heat absorbing putty?
Hi Dave.
No putty...just an oxy with a soft flame.
Tacked it first...then welded each small section between the tacks.
Then finished off by smoothing or "melting" the weld line to pick up any holes.
I was worried about the same things, but he has two hot rods with complete steel bodies that he fabricated and welded by hand himself, so I guess he knows what to do.
Over 45 yrs panel experience too...i go there every Tues from about 9 till 12...costs me $20!!
I could go there everyday if I had the time...each session is $20...stay as long as you like.
 
#9
This week, I removed and sorted the front valance which had suffered a little nudge sometime in its day.
Dave showed me it was more than just hammering the dented/damaged areas...how i had to identify where the stress was held and relieve that area first.
In this way, the remaining damage is "amenable" to being beaten back into shape...without it, its still held in tension and will resist ur efforts, and if you persist in hammering that area, will just transfer the damage to a nearby area.
Anyway...it came up pretty good...a well spent $20 session
 

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#12
It did indeed Ron...get it ready for painting now.
Hoping to paint the car one panel at a time as I do the small amount of work on each that most require...I think only the boot will escape any rectification work, save a thorough flatting.
 

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#13
some more kick a panel work going on there. $20 is a bargain. Obviously doing it because he likes passing the knowledge on rather than the money....
 

corazon

Well-Known Member
#14
I'm very envious of you Brenten, you'll soon have a very straight car at the rate you're going :)
Although I do happen to work for a very good bodywork guy so I can't really complain..
Regarding the paint, I hope you don't get any colour mismatch painting at different intervals/slightly different paint mixes
Jim
 
#15
corazon said:
I hope you don't get any colour mismatch painting at different intervals/slightly different paint mixes
Hi Jim.
I've been a bit concerned about that myself.
I have couple of ideas to hopefully get around that.
Firstly, I'll buy enough paint in one go.
Secondly, as part of that cache of parts I got from Brisbane, i obtained the front and rear screen valance (?), which I will paint as an experiment on different days and then compare them for differences in shade.
If that fails, I will have all panels prepped and primed and then just paint them all in one hit.
I hate cars with differences in colour, so I'm keen to get it right.
 
#17
Hi Vern.
I'm hoping that is the case.
I'm using a Leyland British Racing Green, but it will need to be darkened up a little, so I will take in a front or rear guard and get it matched up.
I think what Jim means is the possible changes in shade if panels are painted on different days due to vagaries in gun pressure/paint viscosity...time will tell...that's why the two small screen panels make the ideal test.
 
#18
billoddie said:
Hi Vern.
I'm hoping that is the case.
I'm using a Leyland British Racing Green, but it will need to be darkened up a little, so I will take in a front or rear guard and get it matched up.
I think what Jim means is the possible changes in shade if panels are painted on different days due to vagaries in gun pressure/paint viscosity...time will tell...that's why the two small screen panels make the ideal test.
I'm sure that was what Jim was talking about too, but with modern paints it really isn't an issue except, as I said, with metallics which are sensitive to gun pressure, mix ratios and spray technique.

Yours
Vern
 

SydneyRoverP6B

Well-Known Member
Staff member
#19
You have the colour code for the version of British Racing Green that was applied to the Australian market Rovers don't you Brenten? The code will allow the paint to be made up exactly as it was when it was applied in the factory back in 1974.

Ron.
 
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