Sort out front guard.

SydneyRoverP6B said:
You have the colour code for the version of British Racing Green that was applied to the Australian market Rovers don't you Brenten? The code will allow the paint to be made up exactly as it was when it was applied in the factory back in 1974.

Ron.

Im sure its about somewhere on the vehicle Ron...will look into it.

Vern Klukas said:
modern paints it really isn't an issue except, as I said, with metallics which are sensitive to gun pressure, mix ratios and spray technique.

That gives me a lot more confidence...thanks Vern
 
Hi gents.
Rolling update...I must admit that it takes an awful lot of work for seemingly very little progress.
Happy with the way the front guards are progressing, but the rear one has some little ripples and inconsistencies which will need more work yet.
Having taken some of the panels back to bare metal, it is interesting to see the metal finishing that the factory did to the panels...scratch marks...file marks etc.
Have started on the front passenger door...and that is a little headache in the making.
Some pics...the front valance is pretty much a goer...I have painted it twice now, just to see where it needs improving and to just put some base coats onto it...the final colour is not as in the pics.
Same for the front guard...just painted it up to see where the little mistakes are...let it dry...rub back...remedy...primer/filler...rub back...repaint.
Close to top coat now.
 

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Quality work there. Is this your trade or simply a hobby?

Love the colour but not sure is it Arden or Sage or BRG, presumably borrowed from MG for your market? Looks very different depending on the light. I'm guessing Sage.

I think you need possibly the final coat to be wetter and flow a bit more. I seem to remember spraying 80:20 thinner:paint and that really reduced the orange peel. However no bother with cellulose, just means you use much more 1200 and 1500 grit and don't plan on doing much in the following weeks :D
 
As a rule of thumb, the warmer the day, the higher percentage of thinners to use.
Warmer needs more thinners, and this allows the paint to correctly wet and flow
together for a smooth finish.
 
Look good Brenten :)

The generic green is certainly very different compared to the original BRG. Your Rover may well be the only one in the whole country painted in that shade of green, and that is a very nice outcome!

Ron.
 
Hi gents.
Thanks for the feedback.
Just to clarify...that colour will not be the final colour.
Its just to get an idea where little imperfections still are and to lay down some paint...the final colour will indeed be BRG.
unstable load said:
As a rule of thumb, the warmer the day, the higher percentage of thinners to use.
Warmer needs more thinners, and this allows the paint to correctly wet and flow
together for a smooth finish.
PeterZRH said:
I seem to remember spraying 80:20 thinner:paint and that really reduced the orange peel

That's much appreciated advice, as i was flying pretty blind there...and its summer her in QLD, so 30+ deg and 80+ humidity is the norm.
My current mix has been around 50/50 as I am always wary of paint runs/sags...I'll bump up the mix and make sure of laying the paint in light layers.
PeterZRH said:
Quality work there. Is this your trade or simply a hobby?
Thanks Peter.
Just my hobby, but I'm a bit fussy which can make progress painfully slow as there always seems to be some little/tiny flaw to remedy...I certainly am learning more and more with each rub back...just taking my time...a little each day adds up.
Plus, it is very beneficial to be getting the help and instruction from the retired panelbeater I go to for weekly sessions at his premises. I have the front passenger door there waiting for me to attend to it this morning.
It is probably the worst panel on the car...the panels i have done up to this point had some some small dents/dings, but this door has quite a large flattened woof in it. And access to it is very very limited.
After this door, the rest of the car is almost straight enough to be rubbed back and painted; save for a few minor imperfections.
I am going to try a product called "Enamelad" (not sure if it is spelt that way).
A former auto painter recommended it to help flow the paint better...to dry it faster and smoother and to give it similar hardness to 2k enamel but without the jamminess or health dangers.
I am just spraying the panels under my house with a Bunnings electric blower gun, so little things like that 80/20/humidity advice and such a product can hopefully make the task that little bit easier and give a superior result. I'm not expecting perfection, just better than what I started with.
 
billoddie said:
That's much appreciated advice, as i was flying pretty blind there...and its summer her in QLD, so 30+ deg and 80+ humidity is the norm.
My current mix has been around 50/50 as I am always wary of paint runs/sags...I'll bump up the mix and make sure of laying the paint in light layers..
Are you using cellulose paint? I wouldn't go that high with thinners, try a small panel and drop it to around 30%
Try dropping the pressure in the gun and upping the flow a little bit. The lower pressure will slow the air flow down and the higher flow will up the volume of paint flowing and this may help. A lot of air can disturb the flow pattern and lead to a poor finish. If your gun doesn't have an adjusting valve fold the air line over in your other hand and squeeze it to restrict the flow and paint a patch on some scrap or the wall to experiment with different flows.
Also, hold the gun perpendicular to the surface and around 12" away from the panel and when you sweep, keep the gun square to the panel with each pass overlapping about half of the previous run. Make your first coat a light wetting that doesn't completely cover the panel and do the whole panel which will allow the paint to start to dry, but not dry completely and then come over it again with a thicker layer and repeat until you are satisfied.
Just remember that your subsequent passes deposit an increasingly thick layer on the panel and this makes runs easier and more likely.
Runs aren't a tragedy, on 2K and clearcoat you can polish them out with 1200 grit and green dish washing soap..... :mrgreen:

Disclaimer..... :roll: I am totally amateur hour here, so this is what has worked for me in the past, don't hold me to it as a sure thing, please...

My gun is a knock off of this one... http://www.kinkimarketing.com/KINKI-Air-Spray-Gun/KL-63G-KL-63G/flypage.tpl.html and the little valve adjacent to the air feed at the bottom is the total air flow control that I use to adjust the pressure and the one above the needle adjusts the fan spray. You can also turn the fan to suit your needs by loosening the front of the gun and turning the nozzle. This can allow you to have the fan up/down for wide panels or sideways for narrow work.

Have fun and remember to use a mask.
 
My "gun" is this one... :roll:

http://www.ozito.com.au/sgp-300

So, I'm pretty limited in terms of adjustability.
I am laying the paint down pretty much as you say...light coats...building the paint so to speak.
Just need to fiddle with the thinners mix a little to hopefully get a bit more flow.
In terms of cellulose paint...yes its just plain old automotive enamel...not 2k.
I looked at the "enamel add" product today, and whilst it had some great benefits, it is an isocyanate, and so requires a positive airflow full mask for safety.
So I'll just stick to the plain enamel as is...just let it dry for a week+ between coats.
 
Using filler is cheating :) when my dad used to work in a Wolseley garage in Chelsea ,they used to use lead ! :shock: :LOL:
 
unstable load said:
adamjack said:
,they used to use lead ! :shock: :LOL:
I'd love to know how to do that.

I was taught to lead load years ago by a bloke I worked for, purely because it looked such an artform that I wanted to be able to do it myself, so I pestered him until he taught me, but seeing as it's been over 30 years since I've had a go, I don't think my results would be too good if I tried now.
 
unstable load said:
adamjack said:
,they used to use lead ! :shock: :LOL:
I'd love to know how to do that.

It's actually pretty easy to acquire the skills. The tools are a little harder to find.

These days the only advantage lead has over the plastic fillers is it is malleable so you can do a little (gentle) hammer & dolly work on a seam after you've filled it.

Yours
Vern
 
unstable load said:
but if you layer it up
adamjack said:
Using filler is cheating

Oh, is that what "layering up" is?
I thought it refereed to the way I was applying paint. :mrgreen:
I certainly wouldn't be bothered doing this enormous amount of work, only to "layer" the panels up with bog.
On the other hand, I also don't possess the time/skills or predilection for lead wiping.
What I am doing is cutting out any rusty bits and replacing them with welded in metal.(only 2 small patches)These areas have then been beaten up into shape before being hammered and dollied. Small dings are treated likewise, and any high spots are tapped down where possible or filed where required.
Any bog is merely a skim and is largely sanded back anyways.
Upon completion the car is likely to have less than a cup of bog in its entirety. :)

Factory lead wiping...go to 1.26-1.32
Very little PPC...wonder what his life expectancy was working with lead fumes like that day in day out?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGtu7XBJ0v0
 
harveyp6 said:
I was taught to lead load years ago by a bloke I worked for, purely because it looked such an artform that I wanted to be able to do it myself, so I pestered him until he taught me, but seeing as it's been over 30 years since I've had a go, I don't think my results would be too good if I tried now.
Count yourself lucky you are at the other end of the world from me, otherwise you would be in for some pestering, Sir..... :LOL:

I found 2 places in UK that sell the kit, so I am hoping my container to Cape Town comes through and I can get it and some other goodies.... See here, http://www.lb-restoration.co.uk/cgi...&keywords=LeadLoading&cart_id=1140601450.1725
http://www.frost.co.uk/search?q=body solder
It's times like this that being a tool junkie is sooo hard. :evil:
 
Little bit of progress...
 

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No arguing with those results billoddie. Worth documenting to show the amount of work required for this quality.
 
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