Starter motor.

Steve C

Member
Hello all, got a starter problem, Ive searched the forum, for all on the subject but cant find any thing like this, car is p62000 tc , I have checked all connections on car /starter ect, battery fully charged, but on the first start of the day the starter only just cranks ( just as if the battery is about flat) when it starts i can run it for no more than a few minuets, and then all starts for the rest of day are very good.
I am about to get the head off again ( oil seal leaking ) and this would be a better time to change it if needed.
any advice would be great
regards Steve.
 
I had exactly this problem with my 2000 TC, especially when the weather was very cold. All the earth connections were good, so I figured that the starter was just worn out. I've fitted a modern reduction-geared high torque starter made by WOSP and available from AES, which works very well. If your car, like mine, still has the ballast resistor in the feed to the ignition coil, then you'll also need the 'cold start loom' – actually two leads with a diode in one of them. The AES website doesn't mention this but I went over to WOSP (conveniently near to me in Aylesbury) and they gave me one although they don't normally deal directly with the public. If you ordered the starter by phone from AES you could ask them to include the cold start loom.

You will need to alter the position of the mounting flange relative to the starter body, easily done because there is a ring of alternative holes for the long thin bolts that hold the whole thing together.

Rover 2000/2200 (1966-77)
 
thanks for that, yes all connections clean and tight, looks as if i will be needing a new starter.

regards Steve
 
I am at risk of asking the most stupid question of the year so far, but here goes,
as said earlier i am getting the head off to change that dam oil seal again, so far I have the carbs and manifold off, and have done a clean up and check of the starter motor connections, ---- question, can i just spin the starter quickly just to check it, the crank and cam have not been pegged yet.

Regards Steve.
 
I don't see why not. If you keep the spark plugs still bolted in place, it will be a good test.
 
Have you checked and cleaned the engine earth connections?
My own cold start has me thinking about the earth lead. Mine is non standard and bolted to the inner wing. seem to think it should be somewhere else. Slam panel maybe or in the engine?
 
Sorted my starter now, out with the old, fitted recon motor, big ,big improvement in cold cranking speed, really glad I decided to change it when the carbs and manifold were off, only an hours job, came out and up through the engine bay with room to spare.
next step, get the head off for the oil seal.
Regards Steve.
 
Slam panel maybe or in the engine?

Not quite sure what you mean by this, but it should go from your inner wing/chassis rail to the engine.

If you want to test it, run a couple of jump leads from the slam panel, chassis rail or whatever on the base unit to a couple of places on the engine, making sure the fan won't grab them, then try to start the engine.
 
Not quite sure what you mean by this, but it should go from your inner wing/chassis rail to the engine.

If you want to test it, run a couple of jump leads from the slam panel, chassis rail or whatever on the base unit to a couple of places on the engine, making sure the fan won't grab them, then try to start the engine.

Battery negative terminal has short braided lead bolted to inner wing only, no other cable to chassis rail or engine.

Will try the jump lead connected from the bolt to somewhere on the engine.
 
Hi, There will be an earth lead in the engine bay (I'm not sure where on the four pot) between bodywork and engine. The only other connection will be the handbrake cable which is not sufficient, you will know because the current draw will soften the plastic part and you will get a longer and longer handbrake travel.

Colin
 
Hi, There will be an earth lead in the engine bay (I'm not sure where on the four pot) between bodywork and engine. The only other connection will be the handbrake cable which is not sufficient, you will know because the current draw will soften the plastic part and you will get a longer and longer handbrake travel.

Colin

Usually between the engine mounting points - side plate by the oil pump, and where the mount bolts to the frame

Most people tend to upgrade, and put new leads on both sides, as they do break down over time
 
Reminds me of a customer Fiat 124 convertible that kept breaking clutch cables. It was on its third one before we figured out that the engine ground lead had failed inside the insulation and all the starter current was going through the clutch cable, heating up and taking the temper out of the cable wires, which then broken fairly quickly.

Yours
Vern
 
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