Starter/ Solenoid connections

R

Reece87

New Member
Hi all, new to the forum and to Old Skool Rovers

So i have a P6 that would turn over but not start ( seperate issue )

However now it wont start and i can see a yellow looking wire dangling around the starter motor solenoid and a spade connection on the solenoid with no wire connected to it.

Easy solution to get the engine cracking again i thought, connect the wire to where the spade is. However i dont know if its a nut or a screw thats holding it in place and theres no room to put a screwdriver etc to disconnect said whatever to take the spade off. So i got a volunteer to hold the wire to the connection while i tried the key, but nothing.

So i wonder if anyone can help and tell me what the different connection for the starter/soleniod are please as i dont have a manual.

Cheers
 
apologies should have said,

its a 2 litre so the 4 cylinder version and auto if that makes a diff.

cheers
 
Since it's an auto it will not start, (turn over), unless in Park or Neutral to start with, but if the starter inhibitor switch, (or the wiring to it), is faulty it could stop it as well. Other possibilities are the starter solenoid and relay.
 
Ill double check that i havent been so daft to not have it in park or neutral. Any idea what the wire is that isnt conneced to the spade anymore?

Also is there a diagram available which shows what the connections on the starter soleniod are i.e +/- etc

cheers again
 
Reece87 said:
Any idea what the wire is that isnt conneced to the spade anymore?

Also is there a diagram available which shows what the connections on the starter soleniod are i.e +/- etc

cheers again
Click to expand...
I only have the circuit diagrams for my 3500, so I can't tell for sure, but the only Yellow wire in mine on the starter side is a White/Yellow from the coil to the starter, but I think that only supplies the full +12V to the coil when starting, and would have no effect on the starters ability to just turn over the engine. If it is the same wire as mine, it may be a pointer as to why you were originally having starting problems when it used to turn over OK.

Hopefully some of the 2000 owners on here can confirm that for you.
 
They will probably also need to know the exact model and year of your car as well, to help find the correct diagram :?
 
I beleive its the old style H reg for the age 1969 is it, its a 2 litre with automatic gearbox single carb and the badge on the back says 2000

dont know whether this helps though if not ill see what else i can find.

Cheers
 
just had a quick scan and the yellow wire does indeed look to be the live for the coil, which now leaves the question as to why the starter solenoid isnt working. Lets hope it was that it wasnt in park or in neutral!
 
A few more daft questions and then ill cool it for a bit :oops:

can the inhbitor switch be accessed from inside the car or is it under the car jobby?

which terminal would i put a live to, to get the starter spinning bypassing the switch altogether? Also the live that goes from the starter / solenoid to the coil can this also be bypassed with a live straight to the coil?

Cheers again for the help!
 
If the inhibitor switch is faulty it will only stop the car cranking, it won't stop it starting. You access it from underneath the car.
If you bridge the two white/red wires it will bypass the switch, but make sure the gearlever is in PARK or NEUTRAL before you do it, and don't leave it like it.
 
Hi again

having a mare with the wiring and it doesnt help that the previous owner looks to have been edward scissor hand!

Please can someone let me know what goes on the different connections on the solenoid. I need to bypass the whole wiring loom for now to get it started and running to get it out of the shed and to another building for welding etc. So i am going to run a seperate loom if you will for the time being to get her started and then running. So any help as to what wires go to where on the solenoid would be great.

Cheers
 

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There should be two spade connections, and two ring connectors retained by nuts. One ring connector has the input from the battery, the two brown wires on that one are from the alternator.
The other ring connector goes to the motor itself.
One spade is the switched supply from the ignition switch to operate the solenoid, and hence the motor.
The other spade is the 12v supply to the coil which bypasses the ballast when cranking. That only becomes live when the starter is operating.
 
So is the left spade the live to the coil and the right the switch supply from the ignition switch?

Cheer again for the help
 
Reece87 said:
So is the left spade the live to the coil and the right the switch supply from the ignition switch?

Cheer again for the help
Click to expand...

A lot of them are marked, but if not you have to work out which is which. Putting a 12v supply to the correct one will operate the starter, doing the same to the one for the ballast bypass won't. When you find the correct one, your 12v supply should also make the other terminal live.
 
Hi all,
P6 3500 1974
Another poser
Having re-joined and purchased a real heartache, I need a diagrammatic drawing of the solenoid itself, if possible
Having de-soldered the front of the solenoid, I found two other thin wires which were not connected to any thing on the solenoid body under the cap, one must have been at some time connected to the ignition pin on the outer cover, I cannot establish where the other wire would go to.
Any ideas gratefully appreciated
Regards
Brian
 
Here is a diagram from a 1960's LUCAS Workshop Instructions . It may not be exactly right but gives an idea of the basic principals . It should be noted their are two coils in the solenoid, one to actuate it and one to hold it engaged . The dotted line is external to the solenoid, it just shows a second terminal available to bypass the ballast, as per the P6 one.pre engaged starter 003.jpg
 
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