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Stiff window winders..

Discussion in 'Bodywork & Interior' started by ButterFingers, May 14, 2017.

  1. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    Hi there,
    My drivers side window winder is becoming very difficult to operate, almost a 2 handed job!
    What is involved in making them smooth and easy to wind again?
    Is the internal winder part easy to lubricate and what with...oil or grease of some kind?
    Peter
     
  2. thamesroverp6

    thamesroverp6 Member

    Hey Peter, you may have to have a look first. Not saying this is your problem but
    mine was doing the same , but on the passengerside, and found the metal channel holding the glass to the regulator mech had rusted to the point it made the glass lopsided as it went up. There is nothing to the mechanism,being simple in design and found it
    easy to lube with grease on the teeth and on the spindle.
     
  3. Phil Robson

    Phil Robson Well-Known Member

    Yes - and grease the horizontal track that the mechanism slides in, too! A bit of spray oil works wonders as well.
     
  4. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    I have some spray lube for motor cycle chains, bet it is just the thing for the job, now to find how to remove the door card....
    have a sturdy 3 foot crow bar used for wrecking old houses, now bet that is the thing for the job?
    Peter the inquisitive.....;)
     
  5. chrisw

    chrisw Active Member

    Stiff
    Two handed job
    Lube

    Wow. So hard not to comment ;)
     
  6. The Rovering Member

    The Rovering Member Well-Known Member

    You need a wire hook to remove the handle retaining rings, ensure you cover them so they don't spring away into the gloom. Then simply unscrew the door pull & lever the card clips from the door.
     
    ButterFingers likes this.
  7. Willy Eckerslyke

    Willy Eckerslyke Well-Known Member

    But start with the door pull screws as they can rust and become a real pain to remove. Don't even start unless you have a screwdriver that fits perfectly. Typically, they'll start to unscrew nicely then get tighter and seize once the rusted ends are reached.
     
  8. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    Providing you can slip a 6' scaffold pole over the end for some extra leverage, then yes.
     
  9. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    I have a good selection of "little helpers", various lengths of varying dia pipes. Used this week in replacing the clutch in relies 4x4 Ute on the bell housing bolts etc.
    Tried to bleed the clutch late pm and would not bleed, read accompanying instruction with clutch kit and it refers to "clutch damper diagnosis" problems and have never heard of this part of
    a clutch? any ideas where it is and how to test it, if it is not working?
    Peter
     
  10. Vern Klukas

    Vern Klukas Member

    Grease will be better than any spray oil product. Often, the problem is largely that the 50 year-old grease is hard as a rock. There is a bit of fiddling to get the winder right out of the car, which is the only way to really grease it up right, and I've found that a cheap plastic woodwork spring clamp works a treat to hold the window up. Otherwise you need a third hand to hold the window up while extracting the winder. And dropping the window can end up with lots of small window bits in the bottom the door and another headache.

    Yours
    Vern
     
  11. thamesroverp6

    thamesroverp6 Member

    haha yes that wouldn't be good.
    Your right on being fiddly to get out. Ive done 6 doors (2 cars) and two doors to go,(painting the doors and tidying up the insides)
    so almost can do it blindfolded.
    Looks like so far my series 2 has been attacked before as I have found missing screws (the big ones at the top of the door) I hope the hardware store has something I can use?
     
  12. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    removed the passenger side front door card to use as a pattern for the drivers side door card, found it to be in the same state of disrepair, falling to pieces at the front btm corner.
    So inspecting further I found a piece of metal on the door floor, it was the forward window winder section. The support channel to the glass has almost rusted away and only winding up using the rear channel.
    Q: how do I remove the glass channel and install a new one from Wins, do I have to completely strip the door and remove the S/S top frame etc?
    Peter
     
  13. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    Hi there,
    Today I received the new passenger side window winder channel from Wins. It was quite difficult to fit but eventually I managed to slide it over the wheels.
    Note: I discovered that in cleaning the wheels that they are spring loaded and need a push backwards to enable the engagement of the channel to wheel.
    I fitted the rubber sleeve into the channel and then onto the glass.
    Q:- it is working OK without any sealant on the rubber sleeve and channel, SHOULD I use sealant ( silicone) to make it permanently seal to the glass and metal channel?

    Peter

    P7053060-crop.JPG
    the old and the new window lifting channels..
     
  14. thamesroverp6

    thamesroverp6 Member

    Hi Peter , I would think you would have to remove the s/s frame to replace the whole frame?
    Not 100 per cent on that.
    I'm no expert but would think you wouldn't need to use sealant if there is enough grip to the glass.
     
  15. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    Hi there,
    I fitted the new channel without removing the whole s/s frame, just the black cover on the top of the door inside, then squeezing my hands down the gap between the glass and door top, after I discovered the spring loaded wheels thing , it went on with a bit of push and shove.
    The glass is gripping well on the channel so I will leave it alone for the time being. The glass is quiet heavy and thank goodness for gravity...:)
    Peter
     
  16. Vern Klukas

    Vern Klukas Member

    No sealant should be required.

    Yours
    Vern
     

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