Valve Timing

Carlos

Member
Hello people, I'm in the process of assembling my engine. Things are going quite well and I think that I´ll end with a nice engine for my P6 2000TC.

Now I'm in the critical moment of doing the valve timing ( for me the most scaring moment of the process ).

From the start I have the first question:
I've moved the flywheel to the ¨E¨ mark, and the position of the distributor auxiliary ¨dog ¨ is as the enclosed picture shows.
Is it ok or do I have to turn another 360º the flywheel ?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Do you have a work shop manual? Fit the distributor and see where the rotor points. If I recall the manual tells you where the rotor should be when you are at the Exhaust peak for cylinder number one. If it does not tell you I can take my valve cover off over the weekend and set to EP and have a look for you.

It is common to find motors set up with the distributor 180 degrees out. Normally when I set plug wires, I always remember that the cylinder closest to the front of the car (1) goes to the plug position closest to the front of the car. However I have seen them set up 180 degrees out.
 
The problem is that I haven't done the valve timing yet.

the EP mark on the flywheel is the high point of the no. 1 exhaust valve.
 
The problem is that I haven't done the valve timing yet.

the EP mark on the flywheel is the high point of the no. 1 exhaust valve.
Ah ! That's true ! The manual says that. Ok. I will connect the distributor and see where the rotor points.
Thanks sdibbers.
 
Ok. With the slot in the ¨auxiliar dog¨ (like in the first picture ), the rotor was pointing, lets say, to the rear of the engine.
So I turned the flywheel another 360º, put in the ¨ E ¨ mark and pegged; now the rotor points to Nº 1 cylinder( second Pic ).
Is that correct ?
Thanks
 

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That is a cool rev limiting rotor arm. They are really hard to find now. My Elan uses a 6500 one, which has 3250 stamped on it for the distributor speed. Be careful with it, don't drop it or damage it.
 
That is a cool rev limiting rotor arm. They are really hard to find now. My Elan uses a 6500 one, which has 3250 stamped on it for the distributor speed. Be careful with it, don't drop it or damage it.
:oops: Please, what do you mean by ¨rev limiting rotor arm¨?
What is the purpose of it ?
I didn't know about it.
 
:oops: Please, what do you mean by ¨rev limiting rotor arm¨?
What is the purpose of it ?
I didn't know about it.

The rotor arm acts as a rev limiter, it was fitted to the 2200TC only, and was supposed to prevent the engines being over-revved, but in practice they were unreliable, and because they were also expensive, most of the time when problems arose with them they were replaced with the standard rotor arm.
 
The rotor arm acts as a rev limiter, it was fitted to the 2200TC only, and was supposed to prevent the engines being over-revved, but in practice they were unreliable, and because they were also expensive, most of the time when problems arose with them they were replaced with the standard rotor arm.
Thanks Harvey, I found a post talking about them. Its clear how it works...when is working properly.

I´ll keep an eye on it, if problems appears.
 
I have a few, but not the elusive 3250 version, although by bending the tab you could make one up.
 
I've done the valve timing following instructions from the big Manual:
- Flywheel in " E " mark and with the peg inserted
- Camshaft rotated ( no chain connected ) until cylinder Nº 1 exhaust valve fully open, with locking key inserted.
- With top tensioner released, I managed to connect with the two bolts, the pinion and the camshaft ( with lots of trials and errors )

So I finished with a setup like in the enclosed pictures.
Does it look ok ?
How can I check that things are ok ?
BTW I cut a little piece of metal in order to fit one of the two bolts. I hope Mr Rover doesn't mind.

Thanks people !
 

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With both the camshaft and crankshaft pegged they are in the correct positions. All I would do is remove the pegs and turn it over a couple of times by hand to make sure it all still lines up. Then you need to time the distributor relative to the crank and camshaft.

You didn't need to cut the support plate, if you pull it forwards there's enough room to get the bolt in. Then push it back afterwards. Mr Rover certainly wouldn't approve, but I'm not going to tell him....
 
Sorry to jump on this thread, but I too am in the process of rebuilding my TC engine. However, when removing the cam, locked in position with no.1 exhaust valve fully open, the EP Mark was some 35mm away from the pointer.
there was no way this lined up.
any views please?

i was turning the engine over by hand prior to this to take an initial tapped clearance reading, so it moved freely.
 
Sounds like one or both timing chains were positioned a tooth out, which would have decimated performance. Valves and pistons must have been getting very close. Which valves depends on the direction of that 35mm error.
 
Sounds like one or both timing chains were positioned a tooth out, which would have decimated performance. Valves and pistons must have been getting very close. Which valves depends on the direction of that 35mm error.
Exactly! Count yourself very lucky! Confirm you were turning the engine the right way though.
 
Yes I was turning the engine in the right direction
the car has not run since I had it, or for the past 26 years.
no piston damage and no valve damage.

it will be interesting to see how it pans out after the rebuild.
i will be fitting new chains and potential the middle chain wheel.
with new tensioners, which will operate properly, I should have a tight enough unit to get close to factory settings.
iwill also ensure tapped clearances are spot on.

no doubt I will be reading more threads and asking more questions
 
How can that happen?
if the cam and crank are pegged the top and bottom chain drive wheels are fixed.
is there a position that the middle chain wheel needs to be in?

i know the auxiliary drive shaft is splined and at some point must have a relationship with the distributor drive dog, but in what way.

there is not a nut or bolt left on my engine block, so this is a real start from scratch job.

the last bits removed were the chains, chain dampers, auxiliary housing and shaft plus the intermediate chain wheel.

35 years since my last rebuild has taken its toll on the grey cells
 
My guess would be that the can sprocket has skipped a tooth when loosened from the cam for other work. Maybe a tappet clearance or replacing the timing chain tensioner at the top. No one noticed or cared and you got lucky. The only item that needs timing on the intermediate shaft is the dissy. If you’re lucky it may still be close enough that you can turn it slightly and still hit timing.
 
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