wheel nut size info for rover alloys

I have Vitesse alloys with Mt Tee's 5001's
I'll take one off and measure tomorrow.
Never had any trouble.

Jim.
 

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Righto, pics of my wheels and shank/sleeve diameter of the wheel nuts I have;

Colin asked,
* you keep saying SD1 Series 2 wheels, but which ones exactly are you referring to, because
what we call Vittesse wheels are Series 2.

These (below pic) are the SD1 series 2 alloys I refer to. Here for the Australian market, I am pretty sure, all series 2 (badged as 3500SE) SD1's came with these alloys as standard fitment, and same wheels came as standard for the UK Van Den Plas model I believe??? (please correct if I am wrong)



Below pic (which is what I have sourced here in Oz) is the size of the commonly available mag wheel nuts with 0.680" diameter shank, which is the same as MisterTee's part #5001 (Dome top medium mag 7/16" UNF thread)




And next is the socket I have which fits neatly in the wheel holes.




Colin wrote,
I have been out to my treasure store and dragged out one of the Vittesse* wheels
and the nuts. The wheel nut shank is .680", although the holes in the wheel are awkward to
measure they are only a few thou bigger. The nuts are a nice fit in the hole, certainly not
20thou loose. So I think the holes in your wheels are either worn or have been opened out,
I would think the latter. As it seems all readily available wheel nuts seem to be .680" then
I think it might be prudent to sleeve the wheel holes back to the correct size. That will then
cure all your concerns about centralising.

You must be lucky to have your wheel nuts fit and centralise your vitesse alloys, compared to the problems Barten seems to be having with his brand new set purchased from Rimmer Bros with 0.680" shank diameter nuts!!, It would seem strange that my holes have been drilled bigger, they dont seem to have been drilled and are definately not worn in any way, as you mention Colin having a sleeve of some sort will solve my problem. I still have the contact detail of the chap I got the wheels from, I'll chat with him to find out if he had any issues with them and ask at the same time if the alloys were "hub centered" on his SD1, and if he can provide a shank measurement as well of the nuts he used, unfortunately he was not available when I collected them.

I was basically chasing the 6" wide rover alloys as I have 215-65-14 tyres which look a bit "fat" on the standard steel rims and would look better on the alloys, but what started out as a plan....... :?

Scott

Mistertee's #5001T which Colin referred to earlier (just re-read your post Colin,) has a 0.730" shank diameter which I could use but means opening the holes to suit which would make my alloys non transferable back onto a SD1 unless the SD1 is of course "hub centred". Even these, Barten, will be 18thou shy of your 0.748" hole size and would be loose like my 0.680" nuts V 0.700" holes (20thou shy).



EDIT: I just had another look at Mistertee's web site and saw a wheelnut (#5501) with a 0.750" shank diameter but the only problem is a shank lehgth of 1.00", which would suit your vitesse alloys Barten if you machined the shank length down to suit (0.550" same as the 0.680" nut)

 
I got a reply from MrTee about the Wheel nuts :

"If your wheels have the larger 19mm diameter holes (3/4"), then you need the same size nuts, in this case #SN31, they are £2.50 ea plus shipping. These are right down at the end of the "alloy wheels" page.

MisteR Tee
Have I Got Nutz 4 U
www.mistertee.co.uk "

So now I will try to find A 3/4 pipe and check if I can fit that. It should be very tight.

regards, Barten
 
Ah yes, I see that Barten, you best check the depth of hole as well as I see that the shank length is 0.800", if it's a bit long you still could shorten the shank to suit so the nuts do not touch the hub face. the vitesse alloys may be thicker at the holes seeing as they are a 6.5"x15 compared to the 6x14 standard alloy. Mistertee's emporium seems to have everything except a shank size for me (0.700) :cry:
I suppose I'll have to either find a suitable sleeve of some sort or go for the 5001t nuts and drill my holes accordingly or even 3/4" and use SN31's.
All the best,
Scott
 
I found a 13 mm pipe that had an OD of 19,2 mm. I was just able to shove it into the nut hole. Very tight fit. So a 3/4" shank OD (19,05 mm) should be OK.
Scott; I see what you mean about the shank length. 0,8 " = 20,32 mm. The washers that I have is 2 mm, so assuming these have the same washers They will protrude approximately 3,32 mm. I measured the thickness through the nut hole to 15 mm. So I think I have to cut off the shanks about 5 mm to be safe. I Guess I can do that using a 1 mm cutting disc on the angle grinder. 8
By the way; the metric nuts I got with the wheels has a shank OD of 17,47 mm or 11/16"/0,688", so they are slightly bigger than the o,68 " (17,27 mm) nut from MisterTee.
SO unless I am able to source nuts with 3/4" shanks and max shank length of 0,6 " I will order a new batch from MisterTee.
regards, Barten
 
Today I received my new 3/4" sleeve 7/16" unf Wheel nuts for my new SD1 Vitesse alloys. They are a perfect fit. The sleeve was a bit long, but the washers were 6 mm thick and that left about 2 mm gap before bottoming out. Result! The only thing preventing me from trying out my new wheels and tyres now is the god damn salt dirt they have sprayed on the roads. We have excellent cold weather now without any snow, and the lesser roads are dry and fine, but the main roads are terrible due to the salt.
regards, Barten
 
Ah excellent news Barten, glad to hear it, thats quite thick, 6mm, for the washers, but good for your needs. I have not chased anything for my alloys yet, but more than likely will opt to enlarge the holes in my wheels to 3/4" and do as you have and go for the same wheel nuts as you. Depending how I can do it I will see if I can do it keeping the tyres on or have to take them off. Ideally I would want to drill slightly undersize of 3/4" and finish off to size with a 3/4" reamer as a using a drill of size always tends to open up fractionally larger wheras using a reamer will finish to size. I take it that the washers you got were chromed as well?? any pics,
Scott

ps edit;

Graeme mentioned,
Tomorrow if I find some time I can do a measure of the nut shanks and hole sizes

Any update Graeme on your wheel hole sizes, oh, and your nuts!!
Scott
 
Today the weather was warmer so I took the Rover out to test my new wheels. They were fine. Quiet and not Heavy. The only negative thing to mention was that they seem to be tracking a bit more than the Vredesteins I usually drive on. The nuts are looking more robust than the previous nuts I got. On those, the crome has started to flake off on one nut. The washers are chromed but not too bright.

I wish you good luck with the SD1 wheels Scott. I read in Classic Montly about the Australian guy who is restoring a Stag, that he had his alloy wheels steel sleeved because the nut hole had worn out a bit much. Maybe that is an option for you?
After I took the test drive, the car was cleaned and I thought it looked splendid in the afternoon light with its borrowed wheels. I'll put on the original wheels tomorrow.



regards, Barten
 

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I have been having similar troubles with my wheels, a couple are a bit worn and are up to 18.2mm diameter holes on some. The usual .68" will not be tight enough, so have gone for the 5001T from Mr T's wheel nut emporium with the .73 diameter shank by .60 length . My friendly chap who does such things has given me a quote of £50 to ream out the wheel holes, so will be a nice tight fit to centre the wheel.
 

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UPDATE, so, I was able to have the wheel holes reamed to 3/4", that is 0.750", I then ordered the SN31 wheel nuts from UK. on arrival I found the quality to be wanting, at least half of them had the thread not concentric to the shank diameter which when fitting the wheel nut was tight then loose doing it up. You could visibly see the out of concentricity, and after measuring the shank diameters only found one that was close to the 0.750 size which was 0.748 all the other diameters were below this the smallest shank diameter being 0.731. Crazy variations to say the least. The vendor who was quite helpful in email correspondence willing not only to reimburse costs, but keen to find out the source of the faults. The vendor also found issue with concentricity with his remaining stock and confirmed that they were more than likely made in China to dubious standards. Another UK source emailed me that the only supplies were from China and that quality was not the best for these SN31's.
I opted to purchase some dual dome top truck mag wheel nuts from a website in USA which were also advertised as being 0.75 shank diameter but when they arrived were found to be 0.731 but at least these were all consistent in size and quality but when fitted gave me at least 10-15 thou runout of the alloy wheel, when just nipped up I could register this lift on the wheel with a dial gauge, so wasn't happy with this either.
If the first lot of sn31's were to size and centric then I would be a happy chappy, I've only reamed one of five of the alloy wheels so far as a trial so may have to look at getting custom made, which another UK source can do but about 5 gb pounds a pop, I'll sit on it for a while, I might get some hex bar myself and experiment with shank diameters before committing to custom made.
I believe mini lite wheels have a 3/4" wheel hole??? If so is there a source for these wheel nuts or are they the SN31's as well?
And another whinge, why advertise at 0.75 shank diameter if they are not 0.750 in reality, I can understand a bit of clearance of say 5 thou under size but 20 thou??

And another gripe, the set I ordered from US were 7/16" unf thread (which is correct for the p6) except one which was 1/2", I can't win, yet!

Edit; just wondering Dangermouse, if you succeeded with your holes to suit the 0.73 wheel nuts, I may have to do the same and open them up to suit the USA sourced nuts
 
I had an SD1 once; worst car I ever owned! Only car I have ever had where the copper was on the outside of the wires! No wonder they kept letting the smoke out! I recall the wheel fit was pretty sloppy, they seemed to centre on the washer rather than the shank. Did you check with wins and make sure the transcription error was in the email and he didn't make the nuts up to the wrong size? Most Aus states won't let you alter the holes, sleeving is right out, so are spacers. You can probably sneak in a small ream but ensure the washer contact area is the same or larger. If its smaller you will be placing a higher load on what,s left of the metal which can cause the wheel to crack or the washer to dig in then come loose. Currently I'm settling for Rostyles as they are a whole lot easier to fit! How did you manage to get 215s to fit under the guard and not rub stuff?
 
Its been a painful process so far Mike, the irritating thing is seeing pics of P6's sporting the very wheels I'm trying to fit as per this topic,

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=20764

How did MKR 662P do it??

I thought it would be a simple matter of obtaining suitable sleeve nuts as wins had advertised and assured by email as the size I was chasing.
I'm now of a view that the rover alloys I have must have been hub centric on the SD1, because the socket I mentioned earlier which I used to size the holes at 0.700" can fit neatly in the holes from the inner side of the wheel but (as your mention of sloppy nuts with your sd1 experience) I can't get the socket to fit from the outside as the "sloppy" nature of the original factory nuts must have forced the hole smaller when tightened over time, if you get what I mean, but these wheels can't be centred on the p6 hub as the front hub spigot is smaller and as we know there is no spigot at all at the rear hubs, so again, how did MKR achieve his success?

As you say I have eliminated sleeving and using spacers as being too much fussing around, and if the advertised nuts of 3/4 were at least say 5thou under 0.750" then all would be well, but what I may end up doing is reaming the small amount of 30thou for the other wheels and use the 0.732" ( but advertised as 3/4" shank diameter) nuts I currently have.

The 215's were on the car when I bought it and don't foul anything unless some hammer work has been done, which I really haven't noticed or checked.

Washer wise all is good with sizes as they match with the marks at the holes as the original washers must have, but I have been cautious not to stress the wheels in any way from standard.

Btw, I had a 85 SD1, SE2 as they were called in oz and loved it, no issues, but I didn't notice how the wheels were located on it which had the same wheels as what I'm trying to fit now, it was quite a while ago now, those alloys on the SE2 were standard fitment for the Aussie market back in the day I believe.

The series 1 SD1 wheels that Graeme has on his p6 mentioned obtaining wheel nuts from supercheapauto with no issues so they must have holes of the .680 size as that is all that SCAuto do from what I've looked at. Still like to confirm that with Graeme??
 
a chap not far from me has both SD1 VDP and P6 I was thinking of going over and crossing the wheels over then realised the P6 has tapered nuts for its steels while the VDP has the fitted shank. i could check to see if they are stud centred or not though. I've also known people who have done it successfully but given they haven't mentioned anything about the nuts I suspect they either used the tapered nuts (very bad idea) or somehow got the Metric alloy nuts onto the Imperial stud (just as bad). I'm suspecting though that the core of your issue is that the stud holes in the wheel are metric diameter and the purchased imperial nuts are a matching imperial measurement shaft which is different to the metric equivalent. In your position I'd either have the holes reamed out to fit the larger shank AND fit wider washers to ensure the clamping surface is the same or larger or I'd take the wheels to a reputable mag wheel restorer and ask what they reccomend. I suspect you will wind up doing the first option anyway though. There was a very expensive P6B VIP for sale recently that had SD1 mag wheels allegedly from factory which suggests there is definitely a 100% safe solution within BLs standard parts lists. Note that the chrome nuts can gall the wheels and in the present of salt water that will wear the holes larger over time.
 
That would be great if you can confirm that the SD1 alloys are in fact hub centred, then the wheel nuts on the SD1 at least don't need to be accurate for the wheel holes as they are just clamping the wheel to the hub, and the rears will also centre on a same size spigot.

The more technical info we can get for this topic the better as it will give others the reliable info they need to choose what alloys they want to fit.

I purchased an adjustable reamer the other day and set it to the wheel nuts I got from USA and they fitted well to give a runout of 5 thou which is acceptable to me. Some of the nuts (about 4 of them) didn't fit as they were slightly larger than the reamed hole, but I didn't want to ream the holes to the largest size as that would make it loose for those with the smaller shank diameter, so I may have to buy another 5 nuts hoping they will be to size I need (may have to take a punt)

What kind of rover alloys does this car have, the series 1 style or the series 2 style, which is what I have?

As you mentioned it's definitely not a good idea to use the tapered nuts from the steel rims as this will just spread the hole potentially causing cracks to happen.

Actually when fitting the U.S. Sourced nuts I have a couple were found to get tight then loose as I was running them down the studs indicating that these also have concentricity issues, I mean, how hard can it be to machine the shank diameter then drill and tap the thread on a CNC lathe?? To give accurate concentricity, even I can manage this on a lathe at work, which makes me want to just buy some stainless hex bar and make up a batch myself to suit a 3/4" hole/shank diameter.

WINS is indicating that they have wheel nuts to fit the rover alloys to the P6 (to suit the 7/16unf thread) but I found out that what they have does not suit the series 2 alloys, maybe they suit the series 1 version as Graeme has on his P6B in NZ, which still needs confirming as to what size hole is on the series 1 wheels.

For the time being I'm having a bit of success with reaming the holes to suit the wheel nuts I have but just need to buy a few more to selectively have a full set, oh, and I need to shorten the shank length, which I can do at work, and the washers are ok size wise.

Even those who chose a non rover alloy such as minilites must have had then supplied with suitable nuts as a package which I understand that minilites have a 3/4" holes???? I read on the www somewhere.

The chap who recently fitted Jensen wheels to his p6 must have sourced suitable nuts to locate the wheels unless Jensen have the same 7/16unf threads as well??? Must drop him a pm.

Anyhow, I'm just rabbiting on now to keep interest in this topic to hit the 1500 views mark :LOL:

Looking forward to what you can add Mike, cheers
 
Jamjar kindly proffered some info on the wheelnuts he used for fitting his Jenson alloys to his P6 and they are in fact the wheelnuts used on the Jenson which have the same 7/16" UNF thread, so no problems for Jamjar.

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=20898

And searching the web found this company specialising in the Jensen marque who can supply wheel nuts (with the 19mm shank diameter) but OUCH! the price per wheelnut. I think they might be an aluminium wheel nut?? not sure.

http://www.martinrobey.com/jensen/inter ... nut-plain/

also of interest; http://www.google.com.au/url?url=http:/ ... Fi2dBHZpEg
 
Thanks Chris, I have emailed rimmerbros to see if they can confirm size of shank/sleeve OD, as if they are similar to aftermarket SN31's mentioned above which Barton obtained for his vitesse wheels, that size being 3/4" OD then they may be what I need, there seems to be differing wheel hole sizes amongst the variety of SD1 rover alloys.
unless there is a forum member who has a stag/2500S with alloys who can oblige with dimensions??

And just as a FYI, the OD of the Jensen OE wheel nuts (mentioned above) are 19mm sleeve OD which is 0.748" (thou) of which that size would be ideal for me.
Scott
 
westOz74P6B said:
The series 1 SD1 wheels that Graeme has on his p6 mentioned obtaining wheel nuts from supercheapauto with no issues so they must have holes of the .680 size as that is all that SCAuto do from what I've looked at. Still like to confirm that with Graeme??


opps sorry only just saw this, yes super cheap, but NZ has 2 different companies with the same name, even though they are both somehow tied up together.

Graeme
 
Thanks Graeme, stay with me, now focus, focus, just need to know what size sleeve OD of the wheel nuts you purchased for your series 1 SD1 alloys, I'm tending to think they might be 0.680" shank diameter?? Thanks, you don't have to do it right now, I know it's very late now in NZ, so first thing in the morning before you go to work :LOL: :wink:
 
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