Where is the ammeter shunt located?

Hi again, Peter. What do I do with the 2 wires opposite the 2 braided cables as there are no opposites to connect to. Do they connect directly to the dash meters where the braided wires connect? Many thanks in advance.
 
Hi, If it's trying to start when you connect the battery, check the starter relay for its contact points haven't welded themselves together. You can confirm by taking the battery connection off the relay. Or maybe even the contacts in the ignition switch have done the same.

Colin
 
Hi, If it's trying to start when you connect the battery, check the starter relay for its contact points haven't welded themselves together. You can confirm by taking the battery connection off the relay. Or maybe even the contacts in the ignition switch have done the same.

Colin
Hi Colin. I had the relay tested and it was found to be okay. Although I personally believe it is the relay. Until I can get another one I cannot be certain. I have checked the ignition barrel wiring and there are no signs of burn or wear on the wiring.
 
Hi, Earth wires on the Rover are usually black, but there are no earth wires on the ignition switch.

Colin
 
Stephen,

Have anys melted wires near the started and the relay? does the car try to start with wires off the relay?

Have a look at the diagram and work your way back and you should spot the problem. The starter has a permenant feed and the ignition switch operates a realy which gives power to thr solenoid.

Something else has just popped in to my mind. There is a feed via the ignition/starter circuit which puts 12v to the coil for starting. This could also be a problem if that wire is getting 12v from the wrong end if you see where I am coming from. Check the conditions at the coil or pull the wires off and see what happens when you connect the battery.
 
Stephen,

Have anys melted wires near the started and the relay? does the car try to start with wires off the relay?

Have a look at the diagram and work your way back and you should spot the problem. The starter has a permenant feed and the ignition switch operates a realy which gives power to thr solenoid.

Something else has just popped in to my mind. There is a feed via the ignition/starter circuit which puts 12v to the coil for starting. This could also be a problem if that wire is getting 12v from the wrong end if you see where I am coming from. Check the conditions at the coil or pull the wires off and see what happens when you connect the battery.
I have replaced all the burnt wiring and cleaned up the Ammeter Shunt. I reconnected the shunt and tried to connect the battery with the same results as before with the car turning over with no if. I am now in the process of direct wiring...eg, bypassing the shunt. However I have come across a problem. All the brown/white wires connect to ones on the opposite side of the shunt all bar one. The bottom right hand side brown white wire does not have an opposite to connect to. Anyone got any ideas, please?
 
I dug out my old loom but the sunt is not attached. You can see the 6 big wires and the 2 smaller ones.

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It looks like the two smaller wires were on the same side.

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You might be able to zoom in to these diagrams.

If you look at the diagram, there are 2 positive feeds from the battery. The other connections arent two halfs of the same wire. It is just like a bus bar, to give you take off points for the various items, light switch, flasher switch, ignition switch, fuse 1, 2 feeds from alternator.

You would need to connect them all together to a single terminal or directly back to the battery to by pass it.
 
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Have you tried disconnecting the relay by pulling the brown and the white/red wires. The will stop any power getting to the starter solenoid. If it still tries to start then there is something very wrong.

The relay terminals are C1, C2, W1, W2. C2 ( Brown) is the +positive feed direct from the battery (not via shunt), C1 (white/Brown) is the positive to the starter solenoid when the relay is activated. W2 (black) is earth and w1 (white/red) is the positive from the ignition switch.

If the starter runs when the Brown and White/red arent connected to the relay the the starter solenoid is getting power from elsewhere.
 
After much searching and wire testing we have finally found the problem. There were 2 wires melded together. One being the small red/white wire to the relay and the other was a brown/white live feed wire. The wires are hidden behind the passenger glove box near the fuse no. The way I found them was my son was testing the wires on the relay for live feeds and found the red/white was live when it shouldn't be. So I traced the wire back and found where it was fused to the brown/white wire. After splitting the faulty wires we reconnected the wiring and reconnexted the battery. The car did not try to start without the ignition on. I turned the key and the ignition is working properly now. I have now repaired all the wiring. I will give it a proper test tomorrow as it got late when we finished putting the dash and other bits back. Thank you to you all for your help. A lot of what you advised I did try and even managed to make some alterations from your feedback. Thanks again to you all. I will update tomorrow after the road test.
 
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