All things brakes!

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KiaJon

New Member
So. The 1971 rover p5b now runs after a lengthy lay up! I need to.make sure she stops! The brake fluid reseevoir is a: completely dry and b: rotting! The cap is split and externally it looks rusty and generally rather sad!
The questions therefore are:
Is there a better replacement/ upgraded reservoir?
As they are servo assisted (I assume) is bleeding them as straight forward as undoing bleed nipples and sucking the new fluid through?
If the master cylinder is fubar how easy are they to replace/refurb?
Cheers!
 
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1973 P5B should have a plastic brake reservoir, and apart from problems with the low fluid switch, which is easy to fix, they don't give any problems. The older metal ones are better replaced with the later plastic ones.
Bleeding the system shouldn't give you any problems, and from what I remember neither should the removal/refitting of the master cylinder. Specialist companies can resleeve the cylinder in stainless which means that from then onwards you only have to worry about the seals, not corrosion of the bore.
 
THe pedal is absolutely rock solid. Master cylinder? Released one of the calipers butncan't suck fluid through.
 
It sounds like the master cylinder is seized so fit new. You could possibly re-rubber it but as it's single circuit I would be reluctant to suggest it because any pitting in the bore could cause loss of pressure, with the ensuing 'Oh sh1t'.

Edit: The same goes for the rest of the system.
 
Rock hard pedal, non working brakes, and a long lay up are all the symptoms of the brake fluid turning to jelly in the lines...fortunately the rear lines tend to turn jelly first, as the fluid tends to be a bit older. Unfortunately it really means you need to clean out everything, even if its just washing through the gunk and cleaning the cylinders.
 
pressure bleeder time! To get jellied fluid out the bleeders might need complete removal.
 
KiaJon said:
Cheers for the info. New master cylinder ordered. I'll be back on here when the swearing starts!
Click to expand...
The swearing has started! Update: removed reservoir, disconnected pipes to/from master cylinder. Brake pedal still solid! New master cylinder on its way! The pipe from the reservoir to the master cylinder is sadly no more (it has rolled up the carpet and joined the choir invisible; it is an ex pipe!) Do I have to replace it with a copper pipe or is there a flexi option? Preferably with the correct fittings on it. I think I’ve seen something on the Wadhams site but it doesn’t have the fixings!
 
The brake reservour is a PLASTIC container with a screw on lid, about 3" in diameter in a translucent yellowy off white colour. The exit pipe takes a short length (2") of oil proof rubber hose (ie. fuel hose type not water) which joins a short steel pipe to the master cylinders. The steel pipes have a ferule end where they go into the reservour hose. They aren't under pressure so a fuel hose spring clip is quite adequate to keep them in place. The plastic container is mounted to an angled metal plate which attaches to the inner guard or somehwere near by (locations vary slightly) but above the inlet for the master cylinder as its gravity fed. Try to keep vertical humps out of the pipe if making one up to prevent air locks, flow should be all downward. While its possible to just run a rubber hose between the reservour and the cylinder, ending in a tail fitting. It isn't reccomended as rubber and brake fluid don't get on and it is extremely good instant paint remover so keep the rubber connection as short as possible and made out of an ex brake line hose, which is gauranteed to stand up to brake fluid long term. Finally yes you can use copper brake line instead of steel. a brake repair workshop will probably give you the few inches you need in the correct material. The ferule end is important though to keep the pipe in place securely
 
mikecoombs said:
The brake reservour is a PLASTIC container with a screw on lid, about 3" in diameter in a translucent yellowy off white colour. The exit pipe takes a short length (2") of oil proof rubber hose (ie. fuel hose type not water) which joins a short steel pipe to the master cylinders. The steel pipes have a ferule end where they go into the reservour hose. They aren't under pressure so a fuel hose spring clip is quite adequate to keep them in place. The plastic container is mounted to an angled metal plate which attaches to the inner guard or somehwere near by (locations vary slightly) but above the inlet for the master cylinder as its gravity fed. Try to keep vertical humps out of the pipe if making one up to prevent air locks, flow should be all downward. While its possible to just run a rubber hose between the reservour and the cylinder, ending in a tail fitting. It isn't reccomended as rubber and brake fluid don't get on and it is extremely good instant paint remover so keep the rubber connection as short as possible and made out of an ex brake line hose, which is gauranteed to stand up to brake fluid long term. Finally yes you can use copper brake line instead of steel. a brake repair workshop will probably give you the few inches you need in the correct material. The ferule end is important though to keep the pipe in place securely
Click to expand...
Cheers for the info. My P5b has the metal reservoir (1971) but I am thinking of upgrading (if it is) to the clear (ish) plastic one.
 
Update: new master cylinder fitted. There are many joys of having a 12 year old son, I can now add getting him to fold himself in two under the steering wheel to remove/refit the clevis pin! My knees amd back are eternally grateful! So we now have a pedal that actually moves, fluid in the reservoir but nothing moving around the system. I'm waiting on a a pressure bleeding kit. I'll probably have the calipers off tomorrow to clean/look at the pistons. Anything else I should do? Thinking of changing the flexis.
 
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