Brake light switch location

E

erubus

Member
Hi all. I took my 3500S out on its first proper drive in a decade, about a 45 mile round trip. An angry little man banged on my window and informed me my brake lights aren't working and I was the worst type of person as a result.

Anyway, I've checked the lamps themselves and all seems well. I assumed the brake light switch would be on the pedal box being a 3500S but I can't see it. Do you have to remove the whole pedal box to access the switch? Or is there a pressure switch on the pipework somewhere? I've certainly not seen one anywhere.

Thanks
 
There's a pressure switch underneath a three- (four?) way junction for the brake pipes, in the engine bay, driver side, close to the servo unit.
 
mrtask said:
There's a pressure switch underneath a three- (four?) way junction for the brake pipes, in the engine bay, driver side, close to the servo unit.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I found it. There's no power getting to it for whatever reason. The handbrake light on the dash and the reverse lights also don't work, and they all come off the same fuse. The fuse is ok but perhaps the waiting after it ha become a meal for a mouse at some point during the cars decade in a hedge.

I've run a temporary feed from a spare spade terminal under the bonnet and have brake lights for now
 
we found the harness (use that term loosely) under the centre console for HB /reverse/ etc was a right hoch poch of
previous poor work , all replaced along with a new fuse box
Pete
 
I took the rover on its longest trip so far with me, to see my parents as the old dear just had another new hip stuck in. A round trip of around 80 miles, a mix of single track, some fast A road, dual carriageway and some city driving.

Before I left, I fitted the mechanical fuel.pump, managing to join the ¼" pipe to the 8mm pipe using some of the land rover pipe that I had sitting around which handily has a 6mm ID and 8mm OD.

At first it was running beautifully smooth, better than ever. About 6 miles in, cruising at about 60mph in 5th, the engine started to die and stutter slightly, then cleared it's throat. A few miles later, on a long hill, not desperately steep, at 60 in 5th, it lost power, usual symptom, like fuel starvation, dropped to 4th and was still farting and stuttering and slowed to maybe 35mph even when I crested the hill, then stuck it in 5th and away it went again.

After that, there were no further issues and even went up my hill at home without farting around, although with a distinct lack of power. I wonder if there was maybe a pocket of air stuck in the pipe where it comes up over the bell housing and back down. More use will find that out.

I'll need to check all the plugs as it's idling lumpy and sounds like a cylinder might be dropping out, which may also explain the lack of power. That said it's a generally tired engine at best, fairly low compression figures and crap oil pressure but it only needs to last until I've rebuilt the spare engine.

Bloody thirsty thing. Those 80 miles cost about £35
 
Hi Erebus. I would start with a basic tune up...plugs, points, condenser, (if you have these) and check ignition timing. Look inside dizzy cap and clean off any deposits. Possibly even renew cap and plug wires if unknown age. If ignition side tune up does not significantly improve, move onto fuel side.

Low oil pressure would not worry me too much...FWIW.

it's an old car - every journey is an adventure, that's part of the excitement of it.

Happy Motoring - Munro.
 
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