Engine mounts (4-cyl)

Don't know if this helps but i fitted these to my 2200TC recently. I bought from this seller:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Mount- ... 832wt_1379

Parts where FEBI-BILSTEIN brand which are, I am informed by a mate into VW's, a VW OEM. VW Part number is 191199381 / 191199381A use this number in any ebay/google search.

If you look at the photo the mount has a washer which is held in place by two spreader 'ears',. When I compared the new mounts with the old there was about 5mm height difference; the new mounts would have the engine sit 5mm lower. I filed the ears flush with the washer and turned up some 5mm spacers ( though you could use washers ) to get the engine to sit at the same height as before to avoid any problems.

Had no problems and a good result, made a big difference. A big thanks to Demetris!

Pat

I'm looking to replace Bruiser's engine mounts while the manifolds are off the car. Obviously the Demetris-discovered VW items are the ones to go for. The link above is still current so just need confirmation that these are the ones l should be ordering.
 
Yet another enquiry, this time about quality of brands. A scoot around the net reveals that Febi (supposedly OEM but nothing to actually do with Bilstein) are now made in China & re-boxed & the same goes for Meyle, another supplier of these parts.
Fairly unsurprising these days & they're cheap enough so l suppose l could buy a couple of spare ones but before l do, anyone have any experiences or opinions, given that most P6's will be covering relatively small mileages?
 
Indeed, these are not handed.
The pair that i originally fitted 5 and a half years ago are still fine.
 
Yet another enquiry, this time about quality of brands. A scoot around the net reveals that Febi (supposedly OEM but nothing to actually do with Bilstein) are now made in China & re-boxed & the same goes for Meyle, another supplier of these parts.
Fairly unsurprising these days & they're cheap enough so l suppose l could buy a couple of spare ones but before l do, anyone have any experiences or opinions, given that most P6's will be covering relatively small mileages?

Having owned an A2 Golf I can say that their original application had way more load than our use for them. They took all the engine braking and reversing loads on that one mount. Not to mention the gearbox and some of the engine weight.
 
Can anyone who has used the VW mounts advise as to what size bolts they used to bolt the engine brackets to the mount? It would save me a step. Thanks.
 
Checking back in the thread I say 70 mm bolts.

Yours
Vern
Hi Vern,
I had checked through all of the write-ups on the subject and understand that a M10 x 80 mm bolt cut down to 65 mm is the perfect bolt. What I have yet to find (and I was not clear in my previous post) is the required thread pitch. I don't have a metric thread pitch gauge in my tool box and hoped to save taking the mount into the store and testing out various M10 bolts if someone knew the answer.
Thanks,
Dan
 
M10 x 1.5 I'd expect. I don't recall have to seek out fine thread bolts, and if you look up Golf motor mount bolts, all you'll find is M10 x 1.5

Yours
Vern
 
Looking at doing this Mod on my SC in the future. Do the VW mounts have an M10 female thread in them. If I recall the original Rover ones use a 3/8 dia bolt with a nut done up from underneath.
 
The VW mounts are threaded. For series 1 SC & Auto cars, the original bolts are different side to side, RH bolt is 1/2 inch, the LH is 3/8. The TCs, are both 3/8 inch bolts. Obviously that is moot if you install the VW mounts.

Yours
Vern
 
You'll be using 10 mm bolts both sides with the VW mounts, which is right about 3/8" I can't recall if I had to run a drill through the engine brackets, but I don't think so.

Yours
Vern
 
You'll be using 10 mm bolts both sides with the VW mounts, which is right about 3/8" I can't recall if I had to run a drill through the engine brackets, but I don't think so.

Yours
Vern
I didn’t have to on the brackets (they have pretty open holes for initial alignment).
You do have to open up the holes in the base unit a small amount though.
 
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