P6 electric conversion

I haven’t seen it in the flesh but Steve the painter is happy with his work. I’m going with the vibe. Now it’s back to Nick and his team to install the motor, controller, inverter, batteries etc before testing can commence.
 

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Wondering what occurs to historic status when changing to electric from petrol? After all it is a major departure from original vehicle. At what point does it cease to become what it was? Much like having a steam train..replacing boiler with electric or diesel drive. Is it still a steam train ? Or hybrid ? Ought there not to be a classification for major alterations. Or if there is ..what is it ?
 
I’m going to keep full rego rather than club permit but probably could get it if I wanted to. I don’t think we fuss about that stuff too much in oz.
 
How are you dealing with the torque reaction? Are you relying on the engine mounts or is there a seperate rod like on the diff?
 
Thanks Mike,
I’m not going to attempt to answer that question but I will pass it on to the engineers. Do you think more is required?
 
And now for something completely different, Dash looks a bit wobbly from this angle. I Would prefer it to be straight. Is this easily fixed? Heat gun and a positive attitude? Or more trouble than it’s worth?
 

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Re torque reaction. I don't know either, it will depend on the geometric arrangement and the mounts. Both the V8 and 4 Cylinder have reaction arms on the engine but that may be due to using soft engine mounts. The earlier 2000s also had a rather complex transmission mount as did the V8 so I think it would be prudent to talk to your engineers.

I used somebody elses technique for straightening the dash. I glued a sheet of aluminium to the underside and let it set under mild pressure (clamping). its dead flat now and has survived several Australian summers. I still have the (rather rough) template and could trace onto paper and post but I think its probably easier to make one yourself from the actual dash. I'll check what glue I used next time i'm at Bunnings and let you know. Its incredibly strong, sticky and durable. I spread it evenly using a castellated tile adhesive scraper

If its the dash cover you need fixing there is a mob down your way that has the mold and can do a very good refurbishment. I think they're called 'the Dash Doctor" or something similar.
 
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That sounds like the people I used. Job came back like new. Do point out that the end pieces need to be well finished so you can get all the bits together in the end corners.
 
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Mark B said:
Thanks Mike,
Torque message passed on to engineers. And Dashboard Doctor in Boronia looks interesting.
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Alternative is to cut out a piece of vinyl and glue it. I did that (with beige vinyl) without glueing to the visible surface in case at some stage want to return to original. Worked well, would be even better now that I know the right angles to cut! A lot quicker than the 3 months they said they needed the dash for and a lot cheaper than the $500+ quoted.
 
I think I paid less than half that and turn around was a week or so (but I was warned that it might be a while longer, depending on their workload)
 
It looks as if there'll be a whole lot of empty space left in the front you'll be able to use as a second stowage area, making up for the relatively small size of the boot. I wonder if your spare wheel would fit flat above the electric motor? What's the plan?
 
Once the battery boxes are in the engine bay will be pretty full (planning to fit aircon compressor and condenser in there as well). I’m also going to lose some boot space to batteries and other electrical gear. It might end up a skinny spare or no spare depending on how much luggage I want to carry.
 
Just found this thread - nice! I always liked SuperfastMatt's EV Jag:

I'm in Melb too. I've got a fair few p6 bits lying about if you need any and a dead 2000 up bush if you need anything 2000 specific.
 
Thanks. I just watched the series. He decided from the start that the old jag’s suspension, steering and brakes needed replacement and he had the knowledge and skill to design and build new systems. With the P6 we decided all those were already very well engineered so kept them unchanged. Also those changes would have been hugely expensive for me to get done and likley more difficult to get certified for use on the Australian road.
The episode on drag coefficient was interesting. I suspect the P6 is not much better.

I’ve got most of the parts I need. I could use some series 1 rear seatbelts as it came without them. Might also be time for me to get a side mirror.
 
Mark B said:
Once the battery boxes are in the engine bay will be pretty full (planning to fit aircon compressor and condenser in there as well). I’m also going to lose some boot space to batteries and other electrical gear. It might end up a skinny spare or no spare depending on how much luggage I want to carry.
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Assume you are fitting electric A/C compressor?
The Treeligo we fitted works well and the condenser for comes with an integrated receiver/dryer, but swapped the supplied electric fan for a slimmer one. Ultimately also sourced a more compact evaporator which has now replaced the passenger glovebox.
There is a thread I started. "Electric Airconditioning for Rover P6B" I have no idea on how to post the link.
 
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