remove wheelhubs

PepijnWK

PepijnWK

Active Member
Hi is there a way to remove the wheel hubs the easy way? I tried with a two legged puller but I do not dare to give more force because I am affraid to break something!!
The reason i want to remove the hubs is that I obtaine magnum 500 wheels with modified Hubs.
But are ther triks oir tips to remove the hubs? front and back?
Of course I removed the six bolts from the Hub joining the elbow....and centre nut

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KYZJmkk.jpg
 
From the manual it looks as though you take the flange, hub assembly and drive shaft out of the arm, then take out the shaft and the flange is then pressed out from the inside of the hub. See section K-1 &2
 
My goal is to remove the hub from the driveshaft. That is enough no need to take the hub apart. when I look in the maual it states:"withdraw the shaft from the hub assembly",,,, But not how it is done..I see it in 64.15.07.
 
Picture 2 shows the hub removed, is this a spare one?

I have recently removed my driveshafts by removing the four bolts on the diff end, then removing the centre nut and sliding the shaft out inwards. It was a bit tight, and I had to whack it with a wooden mallet to free it up. The hub is then just held onto the dedion elbow with the 6 nuts and bolts. Mine were painted over so were very tight but did come off with bit of light whacking. I would think that removing the hub with the shaft still in would be very difficult, but possible.
 
Surely if you are using a puller on the drive flange , pressing on the drive shaft you are still having the pull the flange out of the outer bearing as well, not just off the shaft .
 
The shaft is splined to the hub and should come out fairly easily. Note that technically this means you have to reset the bearing preload when you reassemble.

Do you have complete hubs for the Magnum wheels? If so, and they are without the shafts I would be very cautious about just installing them — at the very least i would set the bearing preload.

Yours
Vern
 
thanks for the replies.
The removed hub on the photo is indeed the hub for the magnum wheels. It has slightly shorter and thicker studs.

roverp480 said:
Surely if you are using a puller on the drive flange , pressing on the drive shaft you are still having the pull the flange out of the outer bearing as well, not just off the shaft .
Click to expand...
Well I do not want to pull the flange from the hub. My goal is to pull the Hub as a unit of the shaft so I can mount the modified hub .

But as I understand I could try to remove the driveshaft from trhe differential, release trhe central Hub Nut and wack the axel out of the Hub?

Vern Klukas said:
The shaft is splined to the hub and should come out fairly easily. Note that technically this means you have to reset the bearing preload when you reassemble.

Do you have complete hubs for the Magnum wheels? If so, and they are without the shafts I would be very cautious about just installing them — at the very least i would set the bearing preload.

Yours
Vern
Click to expand...

What is the scary thing that you would be very cautious? The collapsible spacer is in the correct position and it is a matter of applying the correct torque to the central hubnut? that is setting the preload I presume. But What happens if this is a little bit off?
 
PepijnWK said:
The collapsible spacer is in the correct position and it is a matter of applying the correct torque to the central hubnut? that is setting the preload I presume. But What happens if this is a little bit off?
Click to expand...
Officially you need to replace the collapsible spacer every time you pull it apart. The preload is set by fixing a spring balance to the hub and tightening the nut until it takes a specific "weight" on the balance to turn the hub.
However, as long as you haven't disturbed the bearings, you can get away with reusing the the spacer by replacing the nut in exactly the same position that it was in before you started. So mark it and count the turns before undoing it. There is no correct torque setting for the nut because it doesn't work that way.
If you haven't got a manual, you could save yourself a lot of trouble and expense by getting hold of one. Even the Haynes manual explains this area adequately enough.
 
Willy Eckerslyke said:
Officially you need to replace the collapsible spacer every time you pull it apart. The preload is set by fixing a spring balance to the hub and tightening the nut until it takes a specific "weight" on the balance to turn the hub.
However, as long as you haven't disturbed the bearings, you can get away with reusing the the spacer by replacing the nut in exactly the same position that it was in before you started. So mark it and count the turns before undoing it. There is no correct torque setting for the nut because it doesn't work that way.
If you haven't got a manual, you could save yourself a lot of trouble and expense by getting hold of one. Even the Haynes manual explains this area adequately enough.
Click to expand...
I have the manual and even have set the preload in the past. I am aware of the procedure but what could go wrong if you take the central nut of and just retighten it. I did not mark it and did not count the turns........ I thought when there is no play and the nu is roughly in the same place i woulkd be alright.
 
PepijnWK said:
thanks for the replies.
The removed hub on the photo is indeed the hub for the magnum wheels. It has slightly shorter and thicker studs.
Click to expand...

Has the hub been machined to fit the magnums, or do the studs fit in the same holes? If they do, like my SD1 studs do, I would leave the whole lot alone, and just change the studs over.
 
quattro said:
Has the hub been machined to fit the magnums, or do the studs fit in the same holes? If they do, like my SD1 studs do, I would leave the whole lot alone, and just change the studs over.
Click to expand...

No that is not possible the studpattern is different. P6 is 5 inch this is changed on the modified hubs to 4,5 inch. The hubs were used on the very early p6 in America. Changes were made by the dealers in the states I thought.
 
"but what could go wrong if you take the central nut of and just retighten it "
I guess you'll end up with incorrect preload which could reduce the life of the bearings. You know now how much work is involved in replacing them, so can decide whether it's worth the risk.
 
Hi, Part of the role the collapsible spacer plays is to cater for the machining tolerances of the shaft, hub flange and the bearings. Changing one of them can alter the preload. It could be OK if the spacer needs to crush up a bit more but not if it's not long enough. For what it costs change it, it's bad engineering practice not to.

Colin
 
PepijnWK said:
I have the manual and even have set the preload in the past. I am aware of the procedure but what could go wrong if you take the central nut of and just retighten it. I did not mark it and did not count the turns........ I thought when there is no play and the nu is roughly in the same place i woulkd be alright.
Click to expand...

What could go wrong is a) too tight and you overheat and burnup the bearings, or b) too loose and they beat themselves to death. I've had b) happen to me.

At a minimum, I'd do the spring balance check when you put things back together.

Yours
Vern
 
I saw this topic has no end yet........ But I ended up buying normal Rostyles and fitted thos so the hubs did not come off. I tightened the rear hub as good as i can knowing it is probably not exactly right since I did n ot replace the spacer. ( are they still available?) I noticed that Mark Grey offers a service to replace the bearings and seals but they do not have the seals. I wonder how he does it!
 
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