Recent content by ampwhu

Car struggled to start this morning but when it got going it was fine. Went on a run and everything good. Got back home and I thought I'd try it when fully warmed up. Struggled to start. I think I made need this extra power from the coil. I can't check the relay as I'm on my own here with no...

OK will do. Thanks again for the straightforward explanation. Electric stuff isn't my thing.

Alot easier to get the bolts in and I now know why the bottom mount hole is a slot. Also, it makes getting to the manifold bolt in the back corner easier.

Thanks Richard. I thought I'd attempt this today. White/brown wire into connector and battery cable to stud. I just left the white/yellow in place but taped the end off so it doesn't short out or so. Pulled choke out and turned car over and it started in seconds. (Would be quicker if I...

Thanks for your reply as always. However I wish I knew what you were talking about!

This means absolutely nothing to me unfortunately

I've purchased one of these RAC318 starters now. However I am stuck with the wiring. Existing one has 3 wires. RAC318 has only 2 wires. I know the bottom thick battery lead goes on the stud with the nut. But I'm unsure what to do with the 2 other wires. Electrics isn't my field so would like...

So after approx 11 hours over 2 days of stumbling around and crawling about under the car and chin-wagging to a couple of the neighbours, I have finally managed to get some brakes with a working handbrake. I did manage to miss out that small spring that sits on top of the handbrake...

I've extended the bleed screw out further away from the caliper to make bleeding easier. (Well that's the theory anyway). It's a brake connector piece with 3/8" thread's. Use a double ended male piece to fit to the caliper and put a bleed nipple on the end.i can now attach my suction pump...

This is the nearside caliper off the car. The clicker wheel/piston is seized solid. This will be why it wouldn't adjust the pads closer to the disc. There is also some "teeth" missing in around 3/4mm of area. Must have jammed up at some point?? Anyway, I've tried undoing it but it won't budge...

Thanks Harvey. I think your right. I've also noticed that the bolt thread in the end is a metric thread. M12 x 30mm and not 7/16" like the original one. I got given the camshaft with so other parts by someone who was clearing out their garage of parts they no longer needed.

I have a question regarding this subject. I have a new camshaft p/n ETC6849. Would it work in a 10.5.1 early engine? I can't find an answer on here.

The picture is of the caliper on the car already. I have rebuilt a spare pair I have that work correctly. I can just swap a spare one over for the non working one on the car. I think this is where the confusion here is.

If I hold the piston and move the handbrake lever, it doesn't move outward. That's where the issue is.

So this morning I've removed the driveshaft, disc and pads from the rear nearside to look at what's going on. Before this, I'd pulled the handbrake up it's full travel and the offside was halfway to its stop. The nearside (above) was at its stop on the rachet. So I think from Harvey's...