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Solved it. The big aftermarket spring was in the wrong place. It was holding the valve open. Thanks guys.

So how does the air valve actually work? When you push the brake pedal the little piston under the valve opens the valve. When you release the pedal the spring should push the piston back down yes?

Yes it does have one. I will give it a stretch to see if that makes any difference.

I have a new air valve on the servo. I am reading that some of the new seals for the air valve piston can be oversize an bind the piston up. And also that the big spring sometimes needs stretching to return the piston.

Hi Guys, New problem to sort. Since I have had the car mobile the brakes are binding when the engine is running. They are completely free with the engine turned off. So it must be booster related right (when there is a vacuum from the engine)?. Brake lights come on and off when they should...

Probably have played a big part Ron although the engine has obviously had a rough life. Valve guides were worn. Three cylinders had broken top compression rings. Camshaft was knackered with some lobes down 5mm. Rocker shafts worn down a good mm under each rocker. Hopefully will have a decent...

Hi Guys, Just an update...I think I may finally be getting somewhere. Now have the car running quite well it would seem. Engine seems to pick up well after a mate had another fiddle with the carbs. I think I have found the cause of the tapping top end too, having dismantled the RHS rocker...

Camshaft is new

... but is right. Yep have had the dizzy apart too. I'm almost certain it is something really minor...but finding it is proving challenging.

So have checked that breather is clear, and that the return fuel line is also clear. I can check the fuel flow if someone can suggest a rate it should be. Colin - I purchased the car as a non-runner and it hadn't been roadworthy for 15 years. Since getting it started it has always had no power...

Any idea what fuel rate the pump/fuel lines should be providing? Is there a litre/min figure I could work to into the return line?

Thanks Mike. Still looking. Yes all ignition parts are new. Needles, jets, float valves all new from SU supplier here in New Zealand. Have blown air down the jets into the float chambers no problem, and I can see fuel in the jet. Have back flushed the new fuel filter. I have an electric (Facet)...

Thanks guys. TDC certainly seems to be correct - I have had the engine virtually stripped so could see all the moving parts. All ignition parts are new. Distributor has been stripped and rebuilt and definitely advances correctly. Yes I did wonder about the torque convertor, although the...

Hey Team, Still unable to find my problem although there seems to be intermittent improvement so I am coming back to fuel/air. I am certain the cam timing is correct having pulled the front back off again to check the marks line up. Carbs are set right, but the mixture doesn't seem to be...

The rise and fall test I referred to was lifting the piston by a couple of mm to see if the revs rise or fall to set the mixture. Definitely different on each carb. Will check the butterflies tomorrow. The rise in revs when blocking one intake indicates a vacuum leak somewhere but I can't see...

Right next question. This engine is absolutely doing my head in. It still has no power at all when under load. It will rev freely to 5000rpm in park or neutral but in drive it wont go above 3000rpm. Over the months I have systematically gone through the engine replacing bits: Started with...

Yep.

Yep perfect. Thank you.

Hi Team, I have purchased a new cam kit from Wins International and have a couple of questions because the car still can like a pig after installing it. I have ended up pulling it all apart again (including the pistons which 3 off have broken top compression rings). Another order from the UK...

Thanks guys. I have given the car to an old school mechanic as I was going round in circles. Seems like it could be the distributor that is messing up the timing and hence the vacuum.. Hopefully a relatively easy fix. Mike - the carb piston was a second hand replacement from an SU specialist...

Thanks guys

Very light sand around the piston circumference to stop it binding. It was very minor. I have tested today that the pistons rise and fall freely.

Interesting. I did have to replace one of the pistons as the needle screw was knackered. I had to carefully sand the perimeter down as it was binding in the housing initially. Will have another look at that.

Standard SU HS6. I don't believe there is any restriction.

Yes. I did use the little dot as you have shown rather than the long line. That seemed to match how I removed the entire assembly relative to the keyways in the aprockets.